LJDB

Thanks dougie while iv been searching for info it seems you have looked down this path before also. Easiest way to go so far is e series donor car, swap over engine and trans, cut and shut sump, j3 chip for efi and smart lock override, swap fuel system to get car running, I found a mob called spoolinboost that make a turbo up pipe for a 4.0 that I think might fit into corty bay and then the odd bits and pieces that go along with it.

Had a look at the fairlane and decided to pull the pin on the idea. Leaning towards a 4 litre sohc turbo, found some good info and seems slightly easier than a 5.0 option. I think the biggest issue will be the sump as long as i keep my hp level realistic. Any info would be great

I was actually thinking single turbo, there's kits from the states for fox body mustangs cheap. I was trying to find a birds eye view of a te Corty with efi v8 to see how much room there is. That's partly why I wanted to use an efi motor. By the way I took the car to work yesterday and I'm back in love with the xflow (for now anyway).

Its already on club rego with the six. I thought about just doing it as I haven't been pulled over yet and I could keep it under the bonnet with the efi. The 6 atm is giving me the shit, take it out one day and its good as gold and the next seems to go like shit. I can pick up a good au2 v8 fairlane for $600 as a donor car and plus who doesn't want a v8 corty

The car would be roadworthy atm except for the xflow because of mods and emissions. Would the v8 have to meet new emission rules or that of the xflow. How could a car pass Rwc with a different engine as there's nothing to go off. If the engineer passes does that mean the driveline is Rwc?

I suppose the normal crs stuff would mount it in, can I still use the 4 speed auto. what involved in engineering these days with all the new rules around club rego ect.

quick look around the garage and there xflow parts in every corner

I just fitted and even larger single v pulley to my car as it was getting alittle hot on the freeway. Not sure what its off but it looks like a factory unit. i also fitted a idler pulley between the crank and alternator pulleys to stop the belt flex because it kept throwing belt. Havent lost one since. You can kind of see it in the pic

There is a couple different water pump pulley bolt hole patterns too. i think it depends if its got a clutch fan of not, maybe early and late types. the one on the right is a twin pulley non clutch fan type.

The nolathane bushes weren't even that old. The rear end didn't knock or anything. It felt alittle loose in the rear taking corners at speed but that all. I only pulled them out cos the lhr mount started to look alittle cocked on one side. I got a set of supapro ones today from bursons for $55 at trade price. The rest of the rear end(nolathane) still looked good. So while is was in that area of the car and my last day of holidays I thought why not.

Can I used standard 250 valve springs to break in a camtech 510 or is there a better alternative.

how many amps do u want. i brought a vn 85 amp alt to strip into original cases but theres stuff all difference. change the pulley, bottom mounts needs a spacer i used a 19mm nut over the bolt and a jumper wire to the reg. if you get your hands on a commodore one and compare it to yours you will see. Before that 1 got a 100amp chrome one like on ebay but you need to use an external reg. big pain in the arse to find one these days. Theres a curved top alternator bracket that fits the straight up mount on the commodore alt.

Wont be going anywhere soon.

I ran one awhile ago from the engine mount bolt on the block to the rail but it's only a shitty piece of wire. Might have get a good earth strap for it.

Got back into it last night. Set the timing at 28 and went for a spin. Pulled good and didn't ping so played with the tune. It had 60/61 with 8.5 with wire in the pvcr. Still has the flat spot on acceleration and a/f was alittle rich. Took the 8.5pv and wires out and fitted a 6.5. Vac is around 12-13, put 59 in and pulled Alot stronger in the mid range, I think it had something to do with the pv not being restricted but still rich at wot mid to high 11 a/f. Tried to clean up the bog when accelerating hard. Checked the pump arm and it was running on the spring, adjusted to suit but in some postons u run out of adjustment on the pump arm spring. Played with squirters and cam holes. I'm using the pink with 35 squirter. Tried 25/31/35 best I could get it was pink cam hole 3 pos 2. What's everyone's thoughts on pump cams? I also may have found another contributor to the rpm miss/ rev limiter. One time after I pulled over it wouldn't crank like a flat battery or dead starter. Pulled the starter out today and bench tested it all ok. Check wiring ect found the earth terminal at the battery corroded between the terminal and post. Cleaned them all up and she turns over nicely. Maybe that's why it sounded like the rev limiter cos the msd wasn't getting a good earth under load. Gonna take it out again tonight and play with the pump cams ect. I also went 60 in the secondary's .

i cant touch the car for a few days so il start sorting the tune during the week. Pro what jets do u run. When I got the 570 it was jetted pretty big, I put it back to standard and it felt like it was surging but went well wot. I think they come out with 54/64. Mines at 60/61 atm with 6.5 pv.

This isn't a new head. When I got the car the owner said it had work but didn't know what. All he knew was it had rollers because he could see them through the oil cap. From the look of the bottom end (suspected ACL rebuild kit 8cc Pistons) when it was apart it had done some k's. Iv owned it Since 2012 and before that it was off the road for many years. I got it coz it was straight and interior clean with no rips and cheap $1200. The motor was a plus I didn't even start it. Slowly I have added the manual conversion, msd, 4 barrel, camshafts x2 when ever something has popped up cheap. The most expensive thing I have done would be this cam and lifters. Iv done all the labour ect myself and my uncle painted it. Thanks to you lads it's where it is today in terms of performace and modifications. My crossflow addiction had well and truely set in.

Intake open 35btdc closes 86 abdc Ex open 74bbdc closed 37 I only chucked it on 34 to take it for a quick spin cos it was cranked right up from the night before when I was going from extremes to see if it made a difference to the rpm issue. When I first broke in the cam I had it at 28. There's a pic of the cam card, inlet ports ect on the photo bucket link, I can't manage to work how to upload pics direct to posts.

Timing is locked at 34 with tfi no module now. i use the nylon booster as i found it the best. i only use half a bottle to a tank and it works a treat for pinging down low. the car get street driven with most times a baby seat in the rear so it mainly pings down low if im being lazy and dont down shift or on a hot day. i already run bp6 plugs and a colder thermostat. the temp normally sits on 1/4 on the gauge and doesnt ping but when its hot or driven in anger it sits closer to half thats went i notice the pinging. Gerg i think its and accelerator pump issue as its when i mash the pedal. havent really looked at it yet. a/f gauge leans out then comes back heres a link to my photo bucket with some pics of the corty and engine http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/lezzy23/library/cortina?sort=3&page=1

Comp is 11.3 and it's a early unmarked carb head with hf2 marked on top. Machined down to 42cc chamber with general porting and clean up of the inlet, exhaust looks pretty standard. Standard valve sizes. Aussiespeed 4 barrel with 570 street avenger. I do have pics but can't work out how to upload them. I was going real well. Only went for a short drive but was still pulling strong with the limiter at 5700. Bumped it up to 6500 and didn't hit it but power was signing off and the miss would reappear. A/f was showing 12 at wot and plugs looked rich but I've put octane booster so it's a little hard to read they stay a browny orange colour. Still needs a good tune, has a big flat spot on accel.One thing I really notice the other cold night I could crank the timing right up nearly 40 without pinging but on previous warm days I would have to back it right off to blow 30. It currently set to 34. I enjoy playing around with the car so couple hours piss farting around or doing this twice for small gains or better understanding doesn't bother me in the slightest.

Ok I'm starting to get somewhere. The car goes heaps better and pulls harder didn't play up at 5400. I changed 3 things, 1st I changed the fuel line setup at the carb. I had 3/8 line going to a flat t piece under the manifold with lines going to each fuel bowl, changed to a y piece going to the bowls hoping for a change in pressure. I also re routed the spark plug leads, I remembered reading about spark scatter or something when looking into the msd. I ran the leads as individual as possible where before I had 123 together over the rocker cover and 456 together. And the 3rd and final I checked the valve spring installed heights 1.900 cam card says 1.800. When I had the springs checked ages ago for a different reason they checked at 1.800 -120 and total lift only -320@.500 I never checked spring installed heights back then I just assumed that was the norm. So this morning I rushed down to vpw and got some shims. I fitted .060 shims which brings the installed heights to around 1.840 which is still high. Checked bind which is still ok. valves have ACL stamped on them but I can not find any info on acl valves So can I add more than 1 shim to get closer to 1.800 or what do I need to do to get there. If I change the springs and retainers will I still have 1.900? I have multi groove collets can offset be used as well as a shim. I'm not sure about the valves installed height but the car definitely goes heaps better. Runs a lot better in general more power through out rev range

Ford man the cam make good power and I would be interested in other people opinions that have used it. I think I was just expecting larger increase than the old smaller cam which doesn't mean it's not any good. Once iv sorted it out maybe my impression will change. Also these issues I'm having probably don't help. The car never missed a beat before the cam change and went well. Thanks ando ur a legend for your help and a wealth of knowledge. The springs are single clevo units. When I changed the valve springs to break in the cam I quickly checked my installed height with a set of calipers and it was over the recommended 1.800. Maybe the difference has lowered the installed pressures to much. I never had issues before I pulled the engine out and swapped cams so il have to backtrack and check everything also go over all the basics.The old cam signed off at 5500 but would still rev clean after.

Still no good with my rpm problem. Played around tonight after it cooled down and checked a couple of things. A/f gauges was reading rich at wot and plugs (another set) looked rich so I leaned it out abit. Car pulled better but still have the issue at revs. Its pretty consistent in 2nd gear at 5400. I set the limited at increments Until it played up just before 5500. It's abit hard to check in 3rd as the cars moving pretty quick. I turned the limiter right up to 9k so no chance of hitting it and tested. after 5500 it will clear slightly then just miss until I change gears (Corty rev tacho at 6 which is max).A couple of times on quick shift 2nd to 3rd in continued into 3rd then cleaned up. I played with timing but no change so I checked Fuel pressure. I've got just under 5psi at idle ( carter electric pump no return) and under load it drops to around 3psi. Could this be my problem. I tried slowly rising revs until 5500 but the car vibrates Afair bit and power wise it isn't noticable because it's not pulling. The only other thing I can think of is the valve springs which I had checked afew years ago when I first got the car and then they had 120 at installed and 320 at total lift of the other cam which was abit over .500. I also done a plug chop when playing up and plugs look ok.

Already done. I had everything here just never removed it as I never had a problem. I grabbed a est wiring plug ages ago from pick apart so all good. Also removed and cleaned the carb, found aheap of crap in the filter on the primary fuel bowl so maybe it was running out of fuel up top. I've got a a/f guage on it but it's been playing up lately so I don't know how accurate it's is but nothing shows up on it on test drives. Il give it ago tomorrow. I've richened up the jets so hopefully all is good