LJDB

Hi guys, I recently got my hands on a super cheap BA mk2 XR8 and the diffs very noisy. I was contemplating just putting new bearing in and away I go BUT while im in there I might as well do a Ratio change to help the 260 out down low. The M86 seems pretty expensive $500-600 for gears $200 for bearings and $200 to replace the clutches in the centre and that's me doing which I've never opened up a M86. Can I for example grab a Au/BA standard ute diff, set of gears and Re shim LSD centre or even grab another locker type center to suit and put it in without dramas? Ba ute diffs seem to always be noisy so I'm sure people have swapped them around before.

My ultimate car would be a mk1 escort with sr20t conversion. Pretty common conversion but doesn't make it any less cooler. Good stuff il be keeping an eye on it.

My 570 came with the manifold. I've kinda given up playing with it as its going good atm. I want to try a 600dp on it as it loves the soft white vac spring and being manual with short diff gears would be better. Carb prices are high atm and ive seen EFI systems come down in price lately. Its only a matter of time before the technology become cheaper and easier to access. Check out FITech.com, Cheap from the US.

Iv got a innovate MTX in mine and it plays up most of the time. The gauge sometimes gets stuck on the heater circuit or comes up with an error code after driving for 10-15 min. I haven't had mine for long but have used a octane booster that may have contributed to the sensor playing up. From my experience with it, Gerg is spot on with the jetting and PV restrictors. Mines a xflow with 570 street avenger and Im running 64 in prim and 58 in sec with wire in 4.5 PV restrictors. The 64 give a good cruise a/f but it was always rich at WOT that's why iv got the 58 in the sec and had to restrict the pv channels. Its still not perfect and im not 100% that the gauge is accurate. Power has definitely improved since leaning it out but il probably get it dyno'd at some stage and compare a/f ratios from the dyno and gauge. Also good to see if I got it close or not, Spark plugs are hard to read if using a octane booster or don't have any experience reading them. Online info can be contradicting at times much like everyone's opinions on jetting.

I recently got my hands on a C4 and 250 xflow cheap as the motor was rooted. I was only after the trans anyway for my Cortina. So after a bit of googling and searches I decided to strip and inspect it and hopefully build it up to suit my corty. The id tag says PEE AW8 E24C D8FP RA Its a case fill and has 26/24 input shaft with a B servo and vent in extension housing? So I pulled it down and found new oil and a pretty clean pan with slight metallic colouring in the bottom. I didn't measure end float as I didn't realise it was important until after googling. So this is what I found. The front band is genuine and looks worn with pitting and cracks but still material. The rear band look very good with plenty on material left and possibly not very old. The thrust bearings and bushes show slight wear but nothing to serious and everything looks in pretty good order. The clutches say Alto usa on them and it has 5 Frictions in the forward clutch and 4 in the rev/high clutch. The clearances seem alittle odd with .020 in the forward and +0.060 in the rev/high. I pulled the clutches apart and found all to look good. The forward clutch had 4 smooth frictions at .062 each and 1 cross hatched at .079 with a .217 pressure plate and .261 lower p/p. The Rev/High had 3 cross hatched frictions at .079 and 1 smooth at .062 with the same sized pressure plate at .217 both snap rings are .065 So I swapped all the smooth to the forward clutch and cross hatched to the rev/high and clearances are now forward .038 and rev .065. So what's the best way to approach rebuilding this trans and what sort of hp could it handle with alittle love and freshen up. Ive read about oil mods that don't seem to difficult and would it be worth adding a extra clutch to the rev/high. Id also look at adding a Transco stage 2 kit to the valve body or similar and convertor to suit. Keep in mind the car is never going to be a power house but does get driven in anger from time to time and will probably see the track at some stage. Something that can be left in D for cruises but respond when manually shifted ect. Te Cortina 250 xflow with the usual mods, cam, carb, compression and 3.7s

Cheers Gregaust. Your name came up heaps while searching other sites about c4's. How much punishment will a stock c4 take with just a freshen up as above. Il probably change the band and set all the clearances while its apart. Is there anything I should be looking out for that's a common issue? Also how will the box go without a kickdown cable and is one needed. Id like to use a standard shifter as all the interior is standard and in vgc. There also seemed to be a lot of info on the servos, Will the B servos be ok. As most people id like to build it strong but not blow the budget. Thanks

If u got a late model crank with small flywheel bolts what flywheel do u use with a c4 or do people just re tap the crank to the older style larger bolts?

It's not hard to roughly cc a head and work out the comp ratio. Also depends if it's been machined down and what head u already have.

As the title says. What do u guys do to help a corty hook up off the line.

So I picked another Bargin today. 250 xflow and c series auto out of an f truck. Engine came complete as he was putting a 8 in the effie. He said it had a issue with cylinder 5 and it was common with this year model engine and wasn't sure what auto it was but he was told a c9? So I'm trying to work out what I've got here. It's a 83da block with a Corty sump and dip stick, hf4 unmarked efi alloy head and standard webber intake and exhaust. How can I work out what trans it is. I brought it for parts and the trans mainly, just putting together some peices for a turbo build.

Pulled the rest of the motor down. Found 5 lifters mushroomed and camshaft completely fooked. Most bearings showing some cooper and some slight scoring on crank but only no1 exhaust is alittle worrying. Bearings are .010 over. i have a crank marked 87aa here that's got a 1 peice rear main seal, can that be used with the rope seal block as the cranks alittle different where the seal runs. Also hada look at the head and it's been machined fairly heavily and has a very low cc. I sat it next to a c1a head I have and is nowhere near as deep as it.

It's case fill, doesn't have any leaks but the trans fluid is new. Don't know if that's a good or bad thing. Il prob be in touch PRO iv got plenty of good bits here but need to peice it all together. How hard is it to swap Pistons over to another rod and changing rod bolts. Should I leave it for a shop to do. Iv got 3 sets, 1 .040 8cc race on 250 rods with apr bolts that been balance Pistons have some damage. 2 .030 22cc duralite on 3.9 rods and 3 as above .020 Mahle 28cc on 250 rods. The .040 block looks zero deck but 1 bore is alittle dodgy, the .030 is in vgc and this one above if it cleans up ok.

No e2. There's a couple parts numbers that start with d4 and it's got 27a marked in afew places. Also pulled the sump off, the Pistons are mahle. There a mix between the duralite with the oil return slot and the race series I have. There is a oil return slot on one side but is less then a inch long, the dish also looks deeper than the 22cc duralites. Pity there .020 and not .030 like my other block

Box had ford on casing and shifter on the left. I made sure it wasn't a bw before I got it. How can I tell the diff from c4/9. I also pulled the head off and it's an open chamber design with the larger exhaust valve. I'm gonna cc it hopefully it's pretty high to help bring comp down. It's also got .20 acl dished pistons with a part number ra4106x I can't find any info on. Some bores are alittle rusty, not sure if a hone will clean them up.

After some info on acl duralite pistons to suit xflow. Cant seem to find anything on them only race series. They have a large slots behind oil rings not like normal like pistons. Are they any good for performance/boost or just replacement rebuild units? Does the slots make them weaker? Also are there any differne type xflow rods. I have 2 types one says twr another 250?

Change of engine Hide There are 3 scenarios that could apply when changing an engine. Change of engine - scenario 1 The replacement engine is identical to the original engine. The replacement engine is an option allowed by the manufacturer for the same model vehicle. Documents required: if the engine is optional to the original, a signed declaration from the registered operator, motor mechanic, or dealer in that make of vehicle or an Automotive Engineer certifying the engine is optional for the vehicle model, and that all modifications made by the manufacturer for the same vehicle model with that optional engine have been completed an original receipt for the purchase of the engine as proof of ownership of the engine a completed Change of vehicle details form [PDF 135 Kb]. You will need to attend a VicRoads Customer Service Centre to have the vehicle's engine inspected to confirm the new engine details. No appointment is required. Note: The optional engine must be offered in Australia by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle (or certified variants). Change of engine - scenario 2 The replacement engine is not of a type offered by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle. Where alterations, or changes to the vehicle's frame or structure are made, and/or specially fabricated supports or structures are used. Documents required: a VASS Approval certificate from a VicRoads’ Vehicle Assessment Signatory an original receipt for the purchase of the engine as proof of ownership of the engine a completed Change of vehicle details form [PDF 135 Kb]. You will need to attend a VicRoads Customer Service Centre for an inspection of a vehicle to confirm the new engine details. No appointment is required. Change of engine - scenario 3 The replacement engine is not of a type and/or make offered by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle, but is equivalent in general configuration, power, mass, and emissions standard to that of the original or optional engine for the vehicle model and can be installed without any structural alterations. Documents required: a signed declaration from the registered operator, motor mechanic, or dealer in that make of vehicle or an Automotive Engineer certifying that all modifications made by the manufacturer for the same vehicle model with that engine have been completed. A VASS Approval certificate from a VicRoads’ Vehicle Assessment Signatory can be provided instead of a signed declaration. an original receipt for the purchase of the engine must be provided as proof of ownership of the engine a completed Change of vehicle details form [PDF 135 Kb] providing new engine details Scenario 3 is interesting, maybe a e series swap is ok without engineers if done the correct way. Now obviously a turbo is out of the question in regards to being compliant but the car already has all the pollution gear off and is modified to a point that it would already fail.

well there goes that idea. Don't think il be using them just yet.

I don't have any stock Pistons. Only a set of acl dura lite 22cc and a set 8cc acl race in current engine. Iv got 2 rod sets one says TWR 4b1 which has the dura lites on them and another with just 250 and look the same size but are slightly different to look at. I've been looking at boost and crunching numbers. Iv got most bits to build a xflow but don't wanna do it around shit Pistons. E series swap would be easy and cheap but the boys in blue won't be to happy.

The 205/60/15 has a fair sidewall and isn't stretched by any means. im pretty sure I ordered 15x8's on the rear to try and get some dish. I don't have a programmable msd and wish I did. At the time I got the streetfire the $ was good. I'm also running 3.7s and for the street they are heaps better than the 3.45 I had in with the 510 camtech. Trying to get the best of both worlds

I thought about et streets but it's Alot of tyre for the little Corty on the street. I can see the diff or gearbox being left behind

On the street, I've tried easying it off the line but as soon and I get on it, it starts to spin and 1st to 2nd pretty bad also. Iv got pretty shit 205/60/15 atm and plan to just increase size until it tight under the guard. Iv fitted std 28 spline axles and my rear wheel offset isn't the greatest. I running 15x8 I think but it's close to the outer guard already. Scraps slightly over bumps with full car load althought I generally don't have people in the back. Sick of losing to shitheaps cos I can't get it off the line.

http://www.mikevineturbochargers.com.au/pdf/Turbo%20Falcon%20Article.pdf

I recently found an old cataloge on old mike vine turbo kits from back in the day and they all seemed to be blow through and none made anywhere near 255kw. I'd be stripping it down and starting from scratch. Looks like an old set up and turbocharging has come alone way since it was probably built.

did it go straight in with the fg sump? if so i can fg conversions coming out everywhere

hi guys just wondering what's involved and how difficult it is to,put a Efi v8 Windsor in a TE these days in Victoria. I can get my hands on a complete running au2 fairlane very cheap to swap everything over.