LJDB

Im more than happy to run the wire to the block but my schematic shows no connection to a designated earth in this case the block. A connection to earth is normally shown as an upside down lined triangle. Black pin 16 on ecu is the designation and using resistance check shows this is the correct wire at the TFI. Before going EFI I had it going to the block with the MSD.

Calling all guru's. Ok bringing this one back as I'm in need of some help. Got the car wired up and running BUT Iv had to run a jumper wire from the black earth wire on the tfi module on the dizzy to the block(earth). My manual shows this wire goes straight from the tfi to the ecu. Without the jumper wire I have no spark or injector pulse. I'm not sure if the ecu is supposed to earth out the wire and complete the tfi circuit or the ecu is waiting to see earth before she gives the all clear to run. Now I'm continplating leaving the jumper wire and fitting a switch(backyard immobiliser) but I don't want it to fail down the track. So what I know is it's not the ecu as I've tried another. I have 5v on black earth wire at tfi pin and at Ecu pin and I've checked all earths at the ecu. Not sure what occurs when a tfi normally shits itself, maybe it's the cause. I going to chase one up and try. Xf- E series the same? Time will tell. if anyone has any questions about the conversion so far shoot me a pm. I do have a vid of it running but can't upload it. I'd like to start a thread in the project section but have shit internet reception(I use my phone 90% of the time) and can't work out how to upload pics and videos. cheers for any help. This may even need to be moved over to the electrical section

U will be lucky to get stuff for a AU from a dealer these days.

I'm interested to see what people think of the cam. I'm doing one ATM aswell with a similar cam only because I have it. Turbo engines supposedly don't a lot of overlap. My engine is basic mid 8's comp with basically standard e1 head. Xf efi with j3 to tune it.

It may be a 650 but not a double pumper. Anyhow the carb on it in the vid is a 2 barrel on a adaptor plate and in the pic its a black 4 barrel carb. You will just have to go have alook. At the end of the day if you where to buy an new aussiespeed manifold and 650DP you would be looking a over $1000.

a 650dp is not a 2 barrel. I'd still be taking the sump and rocker cover off, Cheap insurance. I'm not having a go but $1500 is $1500. Xflow's always come up for sale at good prices and pretty much run forever.

I'd be dropping the sump and rocker cover off. Gaskets are cheap and easy to replace. Gearbox and carb are not what he claims from the pics so he rather doesn't know what's he is on about or not telling the truth? Fresh paint doesn't mean fresh internals

The one at the show wasn't pro250 car ive seen that one. This one was bone stock, no plenum, no tfi with a 5 speed. nothing fancy just a clean street car.

I spoke to a bloke at a car show over the weekend with a XE gas research xflow turbo. Stock motor, only valve springs. XE mech ignition with redline manifold, Steam pipe runner turbo manifold and t66 turbo( looked ebay spec). Made a safe 180kw at the wheels. Told to upgrade his ignition and retune.

What diff gears have you got. I have Te 4 speed, 3.7 diff gears, camtech 510, 4bbl holley ect and it takes off like a rocket and can easily pull top gear at lower speeds. Id be looking into this first. When I had a 500 on it, it went even better down.

Seen this beast for myself today. Little ripper of a car and one of the better examples at small fords. I was gonna say hello but didnt know who to speak too as there where always people around it

I put a AU engine into a ED years ago and used all the ed manifold, dizzy ect. Piece of cake, took abit off the front of the au alloy sump and it went straight in.

Im planning on doing the same with a xflow. I have ordered steam pipe/buttweld from blackwoods delivered to my door. 2 2.5" short radius 90 degree bends $32. Il probably just get a 2.5" 90 degree bend welded just above the collector and use the original outlet for an external waste gate location depending on what type of turbo or block it off. The xflow outlet is between 2 and 3 on the manifold not toward the rear like on a e series. The mob that make the j pipe kits are called spoolinboost and they are on facebook, They sell complete kits for falcons. I spent a day walking around pick a part with a bosch fuel injector part number list and found Saab turbo injectors are the same as xflow and flow 32lbs. So il be using them, problem is they are a 4 cylinder so u need 2 cars. Good aftermarket Fuel pumps and adjustable regs can be found cheap on JDM pages and similar turbo sites. I hope to use quality on the fuel system and not go overboard with the tune to make hopefully make it last. Il also be using a el ecu with J3. XR6t parts are easy to find also for stuff like intercoolers ect.

I was given a vg rebuilt 84da that had chew up a camshaft. I pulled it down and checked everything out and it has done very little work, pistons and bores like new. Upon putting it back together I thought I'd check out the bearing clearances. So the clearances seem alittle tight. Bearings are .010 oversize and mains measure using plastigauge between .0015 and .002 and rods around the same maybe alittle more. Will this be a problem or do I just use thin oil? Is there away to increase clearance? It seems alittle tight to turn over by hand but its smooth, I have another healthy xflow here with good clearances that turns over easier. I suspect being a bulletproof xflow it should be ok but engine building can be a black art.

Yeah I lubed up the bearings before reassembling. I turns over fine just not sure if .0015 is too tight for the mains as most recommend .001 per 1" shaft diameter making a xflow spec around .0025. Im just thinking if its an issue, it would be better to sort it out now while its apart.

Supposed to Be ok up to 10psi for e series map

My plan is to turbo it and use a j3 to tune it. My cortys already got the usual mods and goes well but I like to tinker.

Yeah I've got the temp sensor for the ecu il see if it will screw into one of the heater hose fittings on the side of the head. Il use the corty on for the dash.

So I've started the process. I picked up a engine wiring loom from battery to ecu off a eb mpfi 3.9 without smart lock and all the sensors required. Also sourced a xf inlet manifold and e2 head. I've removed any unwanted wires from the ecu and loom and dummied it up on the floor. I don't have a xf dizzy except for the one in the car ATM but I hooked up the old TFI module to the loom and earthed out the pip signal to trip the ecu as if it was the dizzy and the injectors operated. Also when I power the ignition wire the fuel pump relay and isc operated then switch off as expected. So everything seems pretty straight forward so far. it should be a matter of using the original ignition, starter circuits and oil and coolant temp sensors for the dash, then everything else the eb loom.

I cant remember off the top of my head i'll have a look tonight but I think I have a 1" spacer with drop base and extreme filter top. I also cut the bonnet bracing to suit. The spacer seemed to make a big difference to performance so I did what ever possible to fit the largest I could without putting a hole in the bonnet.

So im finally in the process of fitting a 4 barrel to my corty. what is better to run, 1/2 inch carb spacer with 6-3/8 x 2-1/2 air filter that just touches the bonnet or no carb spacer and a larger/taller air filter. anyone played around with spacers/ filter and have real world knowledge that could be of help or even better someone with a corty that has a 4 barrel setup thats already done the hard work. thanks in advance

My thoughts are for converting a carb xflow to efi and being able to tune it easily (j3). Xf efi stuff is cheap and easy to come by and a el ecu is a dime a dozen at pick a part ect. Bolt a turbo on the other side and tune it away u go.

I have the same kit on my Te. I got them pretty cheap an off ebay auction. I had fitting problems but not as much as others. My caliper bolts where correct and have a allen key head( still need washers). I had problems with the caliper bracket hitting the stub slightly and the disc hitting the lower ball joint bracket. Easily fixed with a good file. I regret getting the kit as I enquired about an engineers report for a engine swap and they stated no ebay(machined down caliper) kits. They do work rather well but I also have rear disc and falcon master.

This thing is cool. Do you mind if I ask what you paid for it. Doesn't have to be a $ figure, just cheap, going price or lots. Advertised in the right place this would catch a good dollar. I always see an orange 2 door parked at a local swimming pool on Saturday morning that's no where near as clean as this one. I keep telling the misses im gonna put a note on it to see if it would be for sale but never have paper on me at the time. I also knew where a pretty rough mk2 RS was and never got around to chasing it up, Its now gone and I cant stop kicking myself about it. Before I got my Corty I was after a MK1 but couldn't find a clean one.