LJDB

yeah i use 98 octane and iv tried the 100 octane from united that has ethanol. i went to repco on my way home and what do you know they only had 2 bp7's. typical spare parts, who ever only needed 2 spark plugs. not many cars getting around with a v twin under the bonnet

Hi guys I got a xe dizzy recod and regraphed to suit my corty. It's got 10.3:1 comp, 230@50 cam, Msd street fire Cdi and coil, 500 Holley. It's says to set it at 10" do u guys think that's a little low. I'm not sure what the standard setting is but I was expecting to have to set it higher at idle. I haven't had the chance to take it for a good drive but I'm hoping it doesn't run on when turning it off. I wanna make sure I didn't get ripped off and they actually regraphed it.

So this was the day of revs. The xe dizzy set at 10 had a total of bout 30. Didn't seem to pull as hard and it pinged randomly at wot. So I backed it off to stop pinging and it just didn't feel the same. It also popped and farted when i turned it off. Hot day and the engine temp was up so I went home and looked for spark plugs. I found some bp6es and whacked them in and no real difference. So in goes the tfi set the timing to 34 and she was back. Pinged alittle so I backed it off till it stopped at 28/29. So I'm off to pick apart during the week for a starter. Day of revs over for now

That's what I plan on doing crazy but getting the misses to hold certain revs while I check it is a whole different story. Plus the neighbours love the Corty revving up on a quite sat/sun morning

It's an original te cortina big shity starter and Ngk 5 plugs. It's the misses bday today so I won't get a chance to play around with it. I think I got some 7s around somewhere. Hopefully tomorrow I get a chance to take it for a spin and check what sort of graph is in the dizzy.

I had mine locked at 32 and it would barely turn over. Now this is only a trial if it doesn't go better or I wanna back to the tfi then I can because I left the loom in place. Only a matter of changing the dizzy.

I'm gonna check the total timing when I get a chance. I had a tfi setup in it and there is no doubt they work but for my combo and being a street car I feel it will be better suited to have a graph. Easier starting and a little more response down low. I know the best thing would be a programmable msd but its a budget build. I suppose I need to fiddle around with it first to see if I can set it higher at idle and not ping under wot or see how it goes at 10"

any info on brake upgrade kits for a TE. front or rear any infos good whats the best kit at a good price or does anyone know of any bits and peices off other cars that can make a kit or that fit onto a TE cortina. only a streeter but the brakes crap

yeah iv seen the ebay kits. some good reviews and some not. ive also seen some kits on uk sites for what they call a mk5, abit pricey with freight to aus surely someone has some good advice

i brought a 100amp alternator for my cortina. the alt is similar to this http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-FORD-MUSTANG-II-5-0L-302-V8-1975-1978-ALTERNATOR-/251244557125 in design. it bolts up perfectly but doesnt seem to charge properly and my warning light is on. i was told to put the battery wire to post with bat on it and the (D+) warning lamp wire to the post that says FLD(field). i read that the field post needs 12v ign which is what the D+ wire has. when i disconnect the D+ wire the light goes out. im not sure if it needs an external reg or i need to wire it differently.

im running a h/v oil pump and standard sump on my cortina. what are the chances of all the oil being in the head if im flat to the boards in top gear. i know everyones against the high volume pumps but thats whats in it at the moment.

i picked up a 100 amp alternator for $185 in melbourne last week brand new. i was told v8 windsor fit. my only problem is it chrome.

good info guys. the pumps already in the car so someone has probably already modified the sump to fit. as a short term fix can i put more oil in to compinsate. i might be pulling the engine out soon to sort out some other issues so il change the pump then. whats involved in modifing a standard pump.

iv been looking at pictures of different engine bays and have noticed that some people are running 2 coolant temp sender units at the RHF of the head. what is the purose of them.i know 1 is the orginal for the coolant temp gauge. the only thing i can think of for another is a aftermarket coolant gauge aswell.

Im about to get my car on the road and i was checking the engine number and it looks alittle bit dodgy. The first digits are CG58 does that sound right and theres 12 digits in total. The car is a Te cortina built 8-77 I think its an orginal cortina crossflow because of the dip stick location. Any info would be great, I dont want the RTA to hassle me thinking its a stolen engine.

what are benifits of fitting a msd 6a or the likes. driveabilty, h/p gains, starting, fuel consumption. will it help a mild 250 with the basics, cam, comp, exhaust, 2bbl holley or only big engines.

Ok I got a street fire msd and used the standard Bosch coil. Is it worth getting a better coil. Also the rev limiter doesn't seem to be working

hi anyone had any experiance with the 500 holley. do u guys leave the bigger 50cc pump or fit the smaller 30cc pump. the 50cc pump has the brown cam which pumps a shot threw the full throttle range. mine has a rich stutter when u go WOT but cleans up. i tried a few of the 30cc pump cams which only pump at shot till about 50% that fixed the stutter but doesnt pull as hard in the midrange or top. its got 73 mains and 6.5pv. i tried bigger jets with the green 30cc pump cam but still didnt pull the same. im gonna try maybe 70 or 71 jet with the brown 50cc pump cam and see what happens. iv also tried different sized pump nozzles to try clean up the stutter but with little success.