Tazvan

The difference with non-power steering and power steering pitman arms is the spline is unique and not interchangeable. The pitman arm for power steering can only go on in one position due to it having one larger spline.

Thanks Dave That tells me one thing, the spare starter most likely come from the EL/EF spare, not the EA... How do you get the month's out of the number?

These be thems

I can't be sure the XG (95 model) one was original to the car, but is definitely a Bosch one... I have 1&1/2 spare 4.0L motors here, so the spare starter is currently in the XG (also Bosch, but different number)... NAPA is where I got the brushes from...$23

This is the Xg starter that I gave a freshen up, was difficult to find brushes, but got some eventually... I had a spare, so I haven't fitted this back in yet... My Xf big starter has to be forced in because of extractor clearance, so the smaller ones are better in that respect

Get a multimeter and do an Ohms resistance test on the leads to know if they are actually any good! I just restored a starter motor and it's not a 5 min job and the brushes will have to be replaced most likely, thats why they will wind over slowly until they just stop... It could be the solenoid, cleaning the electrical contacts will work for a while... Smaller E-series starter motors will fit XF also...

Hi all, It's become necessary to give my carb some attention! Not sure exactly what is happening yet, but it has just begun to start like it's flooded and needs some throttle to help it clear. After a little warming up it will idle, the idle mixture can be closed completely and it will continue to idle fine... I figured a complete gasket/diaphragm kit is in order to hopefully fix the problem or problems it has...so after reading many of the informative 34 ADM threads on here, it made me realise there is many possibilities other than just the carb itself that can cause issues... So do I grab one of these kits in this link: https://classiccarbs.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4108 or do I send it to these guys who i guess can guarantee it to come back completely sorted, for I assume a lot of $$$... https://procarb.com.au/weber-adm-6cyl-remanufactured-carburettor-suit-xf-ford/ Maybe other options I'm not aware of? Hopefully you guys can steer me in the right direction... Cheers

Yeah mine is definitely cactus, the diaphragm is the culprit and still searching for a long term solution... I do have a spare crossflow from a wrecked XE ute that had way too much rust and I could use that Weber if it comes to it...

Not really a recommended thing to do, but old school mechanics talked about slowly pouring Ajax powder into the carby at around 2000 rpm to help remove carbon/rust off the face of valve seats and valve faces to essentially attempt to help them seal better than B4... When engines have not been started for extended periods, as has been already mentioned they can have stuck valves and the like and valves can develop rust on the surfaces when held open, so when they then close for the first time in a while they don't seal and give poor compression figures... If this engine of yours is not in the best of health, maybe you've got nothing to lose by giving it a go... The alternatives are far more expensive if you can't afford that. Get the starter motor sorted first I'd say...

I too have had a few shocks I'd prefer to forget!!

One tip I can give, is not to just pull spark plug leads off while engine is running, the spark still wants to go somewhere and what can happen is it will look for the easiest place to go which is jumping across the windings in the coil and making it fail prematurely...

Oh boy... I have now just read in my XF manual something I missed previously, which contradicts my perceived understanding of how the 2 stage idle switch functions... And now after pulling the .70 jet out (looked non removable by eye) I now see a .55 jet that is pushed by spring pressure into the inside of the .70 jet, therefore overriding it until vacuum pulls it away allowing it to become a .70 fuel flow for the time determined by the "Thermo Temp Switch" which is suggested in the above info...

I just got a new sunroof seal for the Jeep from "The Sunroof Doctor" in America... http://www.sunroofdoctor.com/ They might only deal with US Fords though with exceptions of the likes of Escapes and others that are sold here and there ...

So if I was to seal off the 2 stage switch, I assume I could still use that, but having no vacuum to operate it means that it won't switch between the initial .70 jet size down to the .55 size, therefore remaining at .70 constantly, would that be correct?

I found that and more...but the freight seemed a little excessive Tried part number in weberperformance search, but nothing, they have plenty of jets but no holders...

The 2 stage idle switch has definitely failed as it won't hold any vacuum what so ever... So after some reading it looks like I will need to get an idle jet holder to hold the jet that is in the failed switch, but I think I will step down to the suggested .60 instead... I haven't found anyone in Australia yet that can supply one... overseas I can... Is anyone is able to help me out with one of these, or suggest where I can get one here in Aus? This is the part needed below...

So I have mostly disassembled the carb and found the diaphragms a bit hard compared to new I assume. The power valve diaphragm is the worst and only one with the black surface disintegrating...

I've always thought that paying up meant you were buying the higher quality version of something, but clearly that just isn't the case these days! It's just so crazy to read some of the pathetic quality of products available now including non car related stuff... Does anyone know what brand is sold by resto country? Only thing I understand is that they are affiliated with rare spares...

I was suspect of this idle switch when I tried to twist the vacuum hose off and noticed that the plastic could turn in the metal body, which made me realise that it is probably no longer hermetically sealed and either not working at all or only partially... I feel like I'm getting a better understanding of these carbs now and will have a go at giving it a new lease of life. I've owned my 89' van since 99' and it has only recently begun to run differently. For a while I was running E10 which made it run beautifully, but now I wouldn't recommend it (for those who don't know, E10 is terrible for diaphragms) which is most likely the reason for the demise of my diaphragms... All in all, my van has been a very reliable daily for me over the years! Go the Blue Oval!

Yes Dean, the first pic certainly wasn't clear on that. As I have read so much stuff on the subject, I couldn't remember where I had seen the info relevant to my question...so with your prompting I went back to Dave's thread and found it again.

Hi Dean, I reckon you're right about the leaking diaphragm because when removing the carb top cover next day after coming home, the fuel level seemed way too low in the bowl...not sure why the XE comment as it is an XF carb. The pic doesn't clearly show, but it has the (electric solenoid) as well. I'm trying to eliminate the 2 stage idle switch as another issue B4 reassembly, hence why I would like to understand the importance of the vacuum operated switch and deal with that as well. I try to subscribe to what the old man said to me as a kid, do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again... sometimes easier said than done

Can anyone explain the purpose and operation of the circled device? My factory Ford XF repair manual calls it a two stage idle switch... If it is faulty, could this cause my previously mentioned issue, and are they available to buy? If not what can be done?