1 minute ago, Outback Jack said:

Have you bought a booster yet?

Was going to use the original booster, still works.

5 minutes ago, Outback Jack said:

Like the guys said if it doesn't lock the rears when driving it will be fine.
But there's only one way to find out.,

No worries, try that first and go from there.

2 hours ago, scottly said:

Hey mate,  have you driven the car since changing to disc brake rears? Do the rears lock up unusually under Heavy braking?

Car still a few months away from being driven so I thought before I do I need to find out whether I need this valve or not.

I've bought a new brake master cylinder, it's from Bosch Part No. P6258A so I don't know it's suitable  for 4 wheel discs or disc/drum only.

3 hours ago, Outback Jack said:

Just put it on the line for the rears and restrict the flow to them.
Done.

Is there a way to know if it's adjusted correctly or do you need to do a trial and error thing?

Not having much luck finding a pan fill C4  (my first preference) on the west side.

The FMX would be the next choice however, I already bought a new TCI shifter suitable for C4/C6 as well as a neutral switch. As you all know there is no aftermarket bits for the FMX, so the next choice would be the C6 but, is it a straight fit and is it too big on HP robbing compare to a FMX? Engine will be a mild 351 (not using for drag racing etc) with a possibility of going to a 393 or 408 down the track.

Ok, I'm not sure about this one but I'm assuming these were used in XB GT's with rear drums? Or rear discs as well?

I replaced my XB ute drum rear end with a B/W disc brake out of an XC. So will I need this Proportioning Valve or not?

4 hours ago, gerg said:

Maybe if he's talking about a "Boss 302" type engine, he really means a 351W with clevo heads?

That's what I thought first, but he said 302. He does know a couple of machinists so they might set him straight unless they can work some magic.

On 12/25/2021 at 8:48 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

hey why cant the 400 crank mains be ground down to 2.749 and fit in a normal cleveland block ? is that too much meat to be taken off ? or line bore the block to 3.000 ? 

Funny you asked that, I've sold a 400 crank & rods last Thursday to a guy who wants to build a Boss 302 type stroker engine. Reckons it's achievable, who am I to argue? Lucky for him he has his own lathe.

On 11/30/2021 at 7:53 AM, deankdx said:

also saw NEW door glass for utes last week but be sitting down for the price 

Gonna have to shop around for a better price but I'll save that site as an absolute last resort.

Yeah might have to do the same, I've seen some vids on how to remove the scratches looks tedious. I have to see what's cheaper.

It's like this on both sides, can it be repaired or would I need to replace them?

If it can be repaired , can I do it myself, how is it done or do I need a specialist?

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

depends how it's connected, was there spot lights fitted?

if there are spot lights fitted, they are supposed to turn off when low beam is selected(not sure the high beam wires would be near the switch though) otherwise, a relay is a good idea anyway, as it takes the load off the switch. 

No spotlights and there is only wiring going from the relay to the headlight wiring.

It may be used to take the load off the aftermarket switch like you said.

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

i'd be considering getting a correct XB switch

Do have one, need to check if it's works otherwise will send it to that guy that reco's them.

Trying to figure out what this relay is for. Currently has an aftermarket push pull headlight switch and the relay is connected to the original headlight switch wiring.

It's connected to the Brown wire, yellow wire and Red/Yellow wire. At first I thought it's the only way the aftermarket switch will work having the relay but the lights work fine even when the relay is unplugged.

Is there another reason for the relay?

I've been unlucky when it came to buying a 400. Purchased 2 over the years, the first one I went the trouble of getting from the US via ebay. At that time  the aussie dollar was over the 90 US cent mark.

Engine was fine except on hot days, it was bored 60 thou.

2nd one I bought it here, came out of a '71 Galaxie with a C6 and I currently have. This one is already 40 thou and needs a rebore, not going to bother.

Gave it a hone but as you can see it ain't enough.