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RM351

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Posts posted by RM351


  1. 2 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

    Is it maybe a really high rpm stall converter?

    TCI Saturday Night Special -  1600-1800rpm

    2 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

    Lack of 3rd

    Only when the car is on the ground but while off the ground it changes through all the gears fine.

     

    2 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

    Can you monitor line pressures, whilst driving it?

    Hose not long enough.


  2. So found one problem, don't know how I did it but I managed to break the vacuum hose going from the steel tube to the modulator while installing the transmission. Didn't expect that.

    So fixed that problem, tested line pressure @ idle 175psi - reverse, 112 - 1st & 2nd and 92 - 94 for drive and neutral.

    While on stands, car changed gears properly in auto and manually, so I thought "great problem solved"

    However, when on the ground the lack of power is still there when reversing and driving down the road, getting 2000rpm @40kph. Changing gears manually was getting 1st and 2nd but no 3rd. Put the car up on stands again and the gears change normally as before.

     

    So I'm at a loss here, could the new TCI convertor be faulty? or there is there something else to look for.


  3. On 2/7/2025 at 4:58 PM, gregaust said:

    At this point , since issues are presenting in both forward & reverse , really need a pressure gauge on there now see what is going on.

    Will be doing that next.

    I'm guessing maybe something moved out of place when I was installing the pump and hopefully, not me creating an extra problem.


  4. Update:

     

    Had the car on stands to do more tests.

    Oil level is fine.  In Drive the wheels started turning in 2nd gear and stayed there, no 3rd.

    Manually went to 1st then 2nd then Drive still no 3rd.

    Drive to Reverse no probs.

    Now today it's making a metallic whirring noise while in Park or Neutral, no noise in gear.

     

    Looking at the Tacho and speedo reading while going thru the gears,

    1st 25kph @1500rpm

    2nd 45kph @1500rpm

    Drive - no change

     

    This time left it in drive and went up to 2000rpm and only went to 40kph

    manually dropped back to 2nd and went 58kph @2000rpm

     

    Easier to pay more attention on stands then when driving on the road.

     

     


  5. 1 hour ago, gregaust said:

    Only in forward ? Reverse ok ?

    Same, driveway slopes down a little from the road and is noticable when I'm reversing up and out to the road. Needed more revs than usual to reverse out

     

    1 hour ago, gregaust said:

    Does it feel like a slip ?

    I think so. I was changing the gears manually, seems to struggle more in top gear. Honestly it feels like it doesn't have enough fluid but it does.

     

    1 hour ago, gregaust said:

    What converter was fitted ? 

    TCI Saturday Night Special Torque Converter 26-Spline  Stall 1600-1800 rpm  Part# 450900

     

    1 hour ago, gregaust said:

    The sealing rings on the pump? Fitted back right?  Were a snug fit in the grooves ?

    They were unless they came apart while I fitted the pump to the box. Yes that one you see apart I fixed before installing.

    pump.jpg

     

    1 hour ago, gregaust said:

    you use the same stator support and just swap pump?

    Haven't changed anything. Just pulled the pump out to see if it was worn and put it back in.


  6. 3 hours ago, Rod Racer said:

    Is the fluid level is correct?

    Started off with 10.5 litres accounting for a deep pan and showed a little over the full mark. I added another litre to see if it made any difference but nothing.

     

    3 hours ago, Rod Racer said:

     No noise?

    Nope

     

    3 hours ago, Rod Racer said:

    Possible stator one way clutch failure in the convertor. Turns it into a fluid coupling. Lots of revs, not much go

    Fuck I hope not this is a new convertor.


  7. Ok, so everything is back together adjusted the front band (tighten 10ft lb and back off 1 1/2 turns).

    While I had the car up on stands, started it up went through the gears, seem to be fine but when I took it out on the road it was like it hardly had any power, lots of revs but going very slow.

     

    I put 10 litres of fluid before going on the road, added an extra litre drove out again but no change.

     

    Any clue?

    I'm hoping I don't have to pull the box out again, I'm certain I put it all back together as it should (I hope).


  8. 4 hours ago, Rod Racer said:

    Try something. Bolt the spacer plate, drive plate, and bellhousing back on and run the engine without the trans. Curious to know if there is any noise WITHOUT the auto

     

    Yeah I'll do that just to be sure.

     

    5 hours ago, Rod Racer said:

    Also, did it make the same noise prior to the auto rebuild? 

     

    Yeah it did, I bought the transmission as "suit rebuild" and the convertor came with it. I fitted to the car and got 5000k's out of it before I had that and the engine rebuilt.

    Was pissed off when the noise was still there so chances are there's something still faulty or I should have taken more care when putting it all together.

     


  9. 19 hours ago, gregaust said:

    Also need to verify that there was in fact correct clearance . That can be measured with it all apart , get a reading blockplate to flexplate ( usually around 19mm) , then seat converter in trans and get a reading bell front face to converter feet )Usually 23-24mm). 

    blockplate to flexplate measured 21mm and convertor to bellhousing 21- 23mm depending which side I'm measuring from.


  10. 5 hours ago, gregaust said:

    That last pic , assuming converter was reco or cleaned on rebuild ?

     

    Yes cleaned and increased stall a little.

     

    5 hours ago, gregaust said:

    Bit odd the studs are catching in the flexplate 

     

    I thought that too, bought same one a decade ago for another car I owned and had not fitment issues. I wonder if the convertor was not seated properly on the flexplate and caused the whining noise?


  11. Okay, finally got the trans out, had trouble getting the convertor out with the trans but eventually did prying one side with a screwdriver and then turning over the engine to the other side.

     

     

    This is why, no matter what I did, could not get the studs through the flex plate hole evenly

     

    20250107-113800.jpg

     

    20250107-113849.jpg

     

    20250107-113507.jpg

     

     

     

     

    Also no signs of rubbing between flex plate and sandwhich plate

     

    20250107-115459.jpg

     

    Splines on the input shaft are ok. Bit of wear on the shaft but that could've been there before rebuild.

     

    20250107-114158.jpg

     

    There is wear on the convertor drive hub, again not sure if it was there before rebuild

     

    20250107-114445.jpg

     

    That's all I've done so far.

     

     

     

     

     


  12. 1 hour ago, gregaust said:

    At this stage likely the best next step is remove trans

    Not going to enjoy that, was easier bolting to the engine while it was out.

    I was hoping I won't need to remove the pump, have no idea what to look for or know if the pump gear is backwards.

     

     

     

     


  13. Righto, may have an issue, I removed all the convertor nuts and could not move the cnvertor back or forth. Even gave the convertor a bit of a tap with a flat punch and hammer, no movement at all. So I'm wondering if the covertor is not in properly causing it to be tight against the flexplate.

     

    I do remember the convertor bolt holes on the flexplate not being perfectly aligned by only a smidgen, wasn't easy getting the transmission in. I thought abouty making the holes bigger but was concerned about affecting the flex plate balance.

    So there is a chance while I was battling to get the transmission on, either the convertor move forward a bit or the convertor is not sitting flat on the flex plate.

     

    Have to say while turning the engine manually didn't feel any unusual resistance either.

     

    20250103-112752.jpg

     

     

    Don't think the staerter motor is an issue.

     

    20250103-112741.jpg

     

     


  14. On 12/26/2024 at 8:54 PM, Rod Racer said:

    I'm gonna say, that is the flex plate rubbing on the sandwich plate. Either the plate has a dent or buckle in it, causing it to rub on the flex plate and/or convertor nuts/studs

    Flex plate is new and I'm assuming it's the correct one for the C4.... Pioneer FRA-205.

     

    On 12/26/2024 at 8:54 PM, Rod Racer said:

    or the convertor is not fully seated and is forcing the flex plate forward to touch the sandwich plate. If you had this same noise before, something isn't sitting right there.

    Is it possible to check that without pulling the transmission off like undoing the convertor nuts and see if there's some movement?


  15. 7 hours ago, Rod Racer said:

    I could have sworn it was just a blocked filter, obviously, I was wrong. It appears there are other issues causing your problems. I'd be going back to him and complaining. He might fix the problems, he might not (most likely).

    Seems like these days there's not many people taking pride in their work, all they care is the $$$$$$.

    See what happens, he did say if the noise gets worse come back to him, probably come up with some other BS excuse.

     

    Did some research about transmission oil pissing out of the breather when stomping on the accelerator There are two possibilities I found which is overfilling (which is not the case for me) or transmission filter valve is missing.

     

    This:

    4553634069.jpg

     

    Which goes in this:

    20241220-105836.jpg

     

    The spring is there but not the valve. Hopefully that will solve the issue once I get one.

     

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