cisco

I have an engine hoist, trolley jack and stands.

I am thinking though that it will not be possible to get the shallow part of the sump past the oil pick up.

Spoke with my Ford expert today and he thinks he has done it in the past. He has done plenty of V8 sump removals.

The problem is that the rubber U pieces are made too long and you get a bit of a crimp in them. He said he always has to cut them, take a bit out then glue it back together.

I remember when I was putting it on having trouble with it. You can't just cut some off the ends as they have a shaped foot.

Starting to look like an engine out job.  : -(

At first I thought I had a leaking rear main seal. Removed bell housing cover for a look and flywheel and seal were clean. Looked over and saw oil pressure switch was leaking at the crimp (quite common). Replaced that with new but still getting an oil drip on garage floor.

It looks to be the rear part of sump gasket (the U bit) that is leaking.

That prompts the question in the title. I read somewhere that if you raise the engine 50 mm the sump can be taken out. Can anybody confirm this and give further advices. Thanks in advance.

5 hours ago, gerg said:

In my nearly 30 years of doing the mechanic thing, I haven't had the pleasure of doing a crank rope seal. 
 

 

Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
 

 

And after watching that vid I am sure you don't want to.

I know I don't.

I have a leaking rear main seal in my 84DA block (XF series therefore a lip seal). It was brand new when I put the engine in my XE 9 months ago. I spoke with my go to Ford expert and he asked me where I got it. Repco I said and he said I should have gone genuine Ford and he has lost count of how many he has replaced.

Maybe you should go genuine Ford with the rope seal. I am going to replace mine with genuine but if it leaks again I am going to refurb my original engine and put that back in the car. That will make it a matching number car again.

I have had a few XDs and XEs and never had a rear seal leak on any of them.

Has since had a 4 speed single rail fitted with a black console and a Saas wooden gear knob.

The mechanical pumps are very repairable. Pull it off and check the lever for wear then try with a mirror and torch to see if the cam is OK.

If all good Repco should have a diaphragm kit for it. The hard part will be getting the fuel pipe from pump to carby.

Saw this on local gumtree this morning. Nine inch diff complete. May be of interest to somebody.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/south-bingera/engine-engine-parts-transmission/1000hp-ford-9-diff/1298860068

I do subscribe to the notion " If you are passionate about it, only spend first class on it."

So off to see Scotty at Repco and give him the list.

19 hours ago, deankdx said:

 

 

same car on Pedders SUPER LOWS

 

 

That looks just about right to me.

I have a set of Kings super lows that I had in the car some years ago but I had issues with speed bumps and had to shorten the front mud flaps.

The debate is still going on in my mind.

What waderobertson said above ( If I had my time again I would go for low springs and 18inch wheel to fill the guard out - it'd just make life easier all round... no cutting bump stops (not by much anyway), no potential ball joint binding, no rear suspension arm contacting axle under compression.) is hitting a chord with me.

I guess the main question is:- Do I want to spend the money and do the work?

Thanks for the prompt replies fellas. All helpful.

@deankdx, you have covered all the options there. It seems regardless of height these cars still handle well if the suspension is not soft.

@SPArKy_Dave. The country pack XF looks good. Pardon the pun, ready to SPRING into action and take on the world. I don't think my current springs are quite that high but close. The blue fairmont looks a bit sag arse and the ESP looks just about right, slightly lower in the front probably because it has a cleveland in it.

I have said in another thread that I think the XE/Fs are better balanced with the 250 crossflow. I have driven a couple of V8 XEs and found them all too ready to cut the rear end loose.

First up I am going to go through the suspension and replace whatever it needs. Lower control arm bushes a definite. The upper control arms came out of an EF or EL and are defiitely better built than the earlier ones.

Front springs are genuine Ford, driver side has white stripe with a grey?? stripe, passenger side has a single mauve stripe. Shockers are Monroe GT Gas. Rear springs are red, Pedders???? and shockers are KYB Excel-G.

The ride is quite firm with hardly any rebound in shock absorbtion. There is a klunk in the rear in tight turns. Possibly Watts Link bushes? Maybe I should just do bushes and leave the rest alone.

The pic is how it sits currently.

Furhter comments welcome. Cheers.

Hi Fellas,

I have trawled through all the threads in Suspension and Steering and could not find anything related to my question which is :- What is the ideal set of springs for my XE.

The car is a Fairmont from which I have removed the original 250 crossflow engine and auto gearbox and have installed a blueprint and balanced 250 crossflow with a fairly mild camshaft upgade from an XF and a single rail gearbox from an XD sedan. Rear end is 2.77 with drum brakes.

The combination seems fairly good and while the engine is still running in I am pulling first gear 45 kmh, second gear 70 kmh, third gear 100 kmh and have had 140 kmh in top gear. This is if I push it but normal driving it is 40 kmh, 60 kmh, 80 kmh and 100 kmh respectively. All good and I am a happy chappy.

I have fitted 15 inch snowflake wheels and the next step is to upgrade the suspension with new bushes and whatever else it needs. Currently the springs in it are I believe are raised height out back pack coils which are fine but I do get some body roll. These may be good for Farmer Joe getting onto the paddock occasionally but that is not me. Around town and on the highway is what I do.

I am thinking that ESP spec springs might be the shot but no doubt hard to get them genuine.

The choices most available are King Springs, Standard height KFFS-17 and KFRS-18,      Lowered KFFL-0 and KFRL-18 or      Super low KFFL-59 and KFRL-27.

I want to improve the handling but I do not want to be bouncing the sump guard off speed bumps.

Does anybody have experience with different spring heights and what is recommended.

The car has been my daily driver for the last 18 years, I love it and do not think later model Falcons got much better based on my ownership of 15 odd Fords from a 68 XT through to an 04 BA Futura over the years. This Fairmont is promised to my son who is completely non mechanical so I need to get it right.

I appreciate any and all comments. Cheers.

You are right about the super lows. Had them in before, took em out, put in genuine Ford country pac. Looks and rides good on polished snow flakes an Bstone ecopias. Don't push em in the wet!! 

Again, thanks for replies, I am sticking with the way it is. Too much work for my old bones.

19 hours ago, Panko said:

So yes i drove around for a long time with the 2.77 behind my T5, it was fine, maybe a little laboured at 100 in 5th. When i went to the 2.92, it meant it got off the line better, and cruising in 5th at 100 meant unless i really wanted to get going quickly, I could leave it in 5th to overtake without issue. 

I am thinking that the only 5% change in ratio makes all the difference.

If I go with the T5 it will only be worth it if I go the whole hog and put the 2.92 rear end in. Extra benefits will be LSD and disc brakes.

If I was to do that I would also fit the full lowered King springs I have and buy a set of Bilstein shocks which would bring the car to mechanical ESP specs and make a very cruisy XE.

Wot think ye??

20 hours ago, deankdx said:

2.77 and 2.92 are almost no different (5%) @Panko was having enough issues to change his from 2.77 to 2.92 with the T5, 

i've kept the 2.77 in most cases and not had any issues (shuddering i think on take off the main complaint i think)

that's with stock cams etc that work very well at low revs.(1800 ish at 100kmh) difference for Me though is no fuel saving was made going from 2.77 in the 4 speed at 2250rpm to 1800rpm in 5th with the T5 .. only difference was less engine noise. 

 

Had a 4 speed XE years ago that I changed from 3.32?? I think to a 2.77 which was brilliant. Hiway at 100k revving 2250 just into the power band, no need to change down for overtakes and damned good economy.

Thanks for the feedback fellas. Seems like no real advantage unless I put the 2.92 diff in as well.

That makes it an epic task so I think I will can the idea.

Hello the "Brains Trust".

I have a late 84 XE Fairmont to which I recently fitted a blueprinted, fully balanced and mild cammed XF 4.1L engine and a 4 speed single rail gearbox from an XD.

All is going fine but we always want to go better don't we??

I have located a 5 speed gearbox in an XF that will come with everything including flywheel, tail shaft, clutch cable and transmission hump for $450 which seems quite reasonable. Am awaiting confirmation that it is the alloy box as fitted behind 4.1L engines and not the cast iron box fitted behind 3.3L engines.

I am assuming that if it is the alloy box, it will bolt straight in to my XE.

Will that be the case or does anyone know of anything that will have to be modified? The only thing I can think of is that the engine to shifter distance may not be the same neccesitating some modification to the console.

The diff I have is a drum brake 2.77. I believe this is the same ratio as fitted to the XFs but they had disc brakes.

Thanks in advance.

The pedal boxes are the same manual or auto. You only need another pedal.......................I think.

13 hours ago, SteveHobart said:

 

Hey all. I'm looking to change diff ratio on my XF Sedan. I've currently got a 25 spline BW running stock ratios (2.77 from memory).

 

Want to go to 3.3's (ish). I heard that E series 28 Spline Diffs will fit and have available ratios (and can add a LSD).

 

My question, what model E series will be a straight (ish) swap?

 

Cheers

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

As dean says "if you can find them". The last wrecker in Brisbane that I asked about xd e f parts said they had not seen any of them in their yard for 10 years. Remember too that you will need to change the speedo sender cog as well. Rocking horse poop or hen's teeth????

I believe the only straight swap will be from an EA. From EB on I think you will have issues with trailing arm bush widths and changing from yoke to flange connection to the diff. I could be wrong so check it.

I had an XE Spac manual with a 3.25 drum brake rear that I changed to a 2.77 LSD disc rear from an XF auto Fairmont. It was a really good combo. Needed a tad more clutch slip taking off in first but from there on perfect. At 100 kmh on the highway it was at the start of the power band about 2300 rpm and you didn't even think about 3rd gear for overtaking. Just pull out and power on and the economy was great.

Have recently repowered my 84 XE Fairmont with a blueprinted and balanced 250 Xflow and put a single rail 4 speed behind it. The rear is 2.66 with drums and I am sticking with it. Take off is fine, accelleration through the gears more than adequate and top gear has plenty of grunt. Economy is 13.4 l/100k with a Weber carb.

With an XF fitting a V8 is not a legal option. If you are chasing better accelleration you do have the diff ratio option or upping engine horsepower. Turbo or you may be able to put a Barra in. My poliucy with Xd e & fs is to stick within the options they had when new.

Best of luck and have fun. Cheers.

On 7/11/2021 at 10:53 AM, The carby guy said:

Excellent information.

However I found those kits you list to be incomplete and poor quality. 

A better company to deal with is Partsdencom, they have the best kits around and as they are in Australia it only takes 1-3 days to get the parts you need.

 

Major kit with new filter screen:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/202875656729

 

Yes. Some of the cheaper kits miss most of what needs to be replaced. Also +1 for partsden.

I used to get the "Fuel Miser" kits of which you would have a lot of extra parts that you did not need.

Recently I have fitted the full kit from partsden and there is a marked improvement especially with cold start and idle.

Overall I find the 34 ADM carburettor very satisfactory requiring minimal adjustments. Fitting a major kit every 5 years gives these engines a marked rejuvenation.