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Dirtyxhute

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Posts posted by Dirtyxhute


  1. 2 hours ago, deankdx said:

    when i had My first XG, it was on dual fuel, and Jim Mock who was one of the go to tuners for the 4.0 at the time said, if it's on gas, the gas is the restriction. fitting a cam and extractors when not needed will make no difference in my opinion.

     

     (engine is basically the same as an XH, but not sure the extractors would be same due to the difference in firewall etc) 

     

    that XG looks NICE!  if it works properly i'd be going just tidying it up.  either of the utes will be quicker with an XR6 diff (3.45 ratio) but they are getting thin on the ground.. you could get the ratio fitted to the current diff, probably similar in price to some mods mentioned and i think it would be most noticable in performance over a cam/extractors even with LPG. 

     

    MY actual XG XR6 was auto with impco 200(a 225 would be better) and it was quick enough.. probably similar to a modern car like a i30 hyundai etc.  (but obviously able to tow and carry a load) 

     

    if you are willing to ditch the lpg, different story.. or boost it using LPG if you can find a tuner that will deal with old cars.. 

     

    some would say, do a barra swap.. but $400 odd just for the sway bar, then the muck around .. 

     

    if you have the space, keep the XG stock. looks like it will be a tidy cruiser even able to be on club rego if not now, soon.. 

    do the XH as a project perhaps.. 

     

    read Thoms 4.0 thread.

     


     

    What about something like this mate 

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MACE-M78-TORQUE-LOCK-LSD-DIFF-FOR-FORD-FALCON-XG-XH-/401486064935


  2. How much do you think a Barra swap all up would be ? I’m happy to do the work, but I know nothing so I’ll still be paying someone just to have the privilege of helping if they even let me. 
     

    I have thought about it though, and it would be fun to drive. It probably all comes down to lockdown fucking with my head and being so bored at home. Like in my normal life I like a reliable car, not cop bait. But I still want the xh to sound good, go well, and Turn a few heads for a dirty old falcon. 


  3. I’ve definitely got the space to keep it stock in a carport under a cover. I’ll fish oil the doors and let it sit. The xh is tidy enough but it’s been a work Ute so the differences are pretty clear. Beat up tub, scratched paint all over the show, but no accident and it drives nice. I guess I was just hoping I could make it fun to drive, but keeping it stock feels like a better option after all things mentioned.


    once I get the roady on it for clubs I’ll chat with the guys and get a price on removing the gas, and go from there.


    Got the new wheels arriving any day now for the xh, maybe that in itself will make me love the thing again. 

     


  4. Gday boys, 

     

    bought a new xg and I’m trying to work out which of the utes to sink some money into in terms of beefing up the horses.

     

    will the xg have more room for improvement than the xh ? Or vice versa, and what sort of mods should I be looking at ? 
     

    I was about to put hurricane extractors and a new exhaust set up on the xh, and hoping to pair it with a bigger cam and chip, but I don’t want to waste money I don’t have to here. 

     

    theyre both dual fuel and mechanically they’re holding on for their age. km’s 300,000 for the xg, and 350,000 for the xh. 

    am I right in assuming nothing will swap over between the two ? 
     

    cheers boys. 
    attached a couple of pics of the new xg

    16D25C5C-F9EB-4E16-A0B5-4E56B40125E8.jpeg


  5. doesn't make much difference on revs really.. it's more about load on the engine.
    i've fitted a 5 speed to a 4 speed manual car and dropped nearly 500RPM at 100kmh and got the same economy. just quieter 

    That’s damn interesting... I really thought revs impacted consumption. Thanks for the insight dean !


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  6. i reckon gas economy didn't vary much for Me, was nearly always around 15L per 100km rarely less and slightly more around town

    I’ve sort of noticed the same, but because she’s a rough old Ute mechanically the injectors for my fuel are shot, so I only really run lpg currently but it seems to go about the same speed whether I’m on the high way or driving round town, stupid Victoria and it’s 80 zones means my revs are sitting at that 2000-2500 mark a lot more than they would be doing 100kph.

    I’m going to get my exhaust sorted Monday, and get the guys to take it for a drive and see what they think it could be.

    Compared to my old xh, this thing does seem a little sluggish and unresponsive, but I feel like that just comes down to her doing 350,000 and running on gas... hm more money


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  7. Does either side mirror glass vibrate, when it's in Gear?
    Collapsed hydraulic engine mounts in EF onwards, is quite common.
     
    Running rich, could be a worn out O2 sensor.
    Do a fuel consumption test, to see if you're in the ball park.
     
    E-series era, should be circa 14L/100km (or better) around town,
    down to 10L/100km with alot of freeway driving.

    Hey Dave thanks for the info, do you have any figures on lpg ? I’m taking it into the mech on Monday and go from there, but the lpg figures would be good just for my own piece of mind


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  8. Engine mounts, transmission mount, vee belt flapping, harmonic balancer stuffed, crank bent, exhaust leak, just to name a few..... really hard to diagnose a noise over the Internet.
     
    Does it buzz when you are in neutral and rev it to 2000? 

    No buzz in neutral, but it smells like it’s running rich.


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  9. Engine mounts, transmission mount, vee belt flapping, harmonic balancer stuffed, crank bent, exhaust leak, just to name a few..... really hard to diagnose a noise over the Internet.
     
    Does it buzz when you are in neutral and rev it to 2000? 

    Anyone you’d recommend taking it to in north west Melbourne mate ?


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  10. Hey boys just wondering if anyone has any clues as to why I’m getting a buzz in my engine bay when reving into the next gear.

     

    4 Spd auto, but the box has seen better days.

     

    my exhaust is shot but it seems that the buzz is coming from the actual bay itself.

     

    absolutely clueless with this stuff any help would be much appreciated.

     

    cheers boys 


  11. That’s to be expected I guess, good news about the other models fitting !

    I’ll take my auto to the mechanic and find out what else is needed and try and work a reco into the budget.

    I don’t want a 10 second Ute, just a responsive and fun to drive project, so the 6k+ Barra conversion just doesn’t make sense to me. If anyone has any information on improving my current set up by 100kw or so that would be really helpful.


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  12. Cheers for the info thom,

    I actually have also broken an auto and I guess that’s what im trying to avoid.

    This being said, how hard is it to get your hands on a good condition xh auto, surely they’re relics now


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  13. Gday boys, wondering what the easiest way to convert my xh from auto to manual. 

     

    Its already on the floor; this being said, I’d like to put a turbo on it pushing a few fifths of fuck all  7-8 pound, is it going to be easier and less costly just to find a new motor with a manual box ? It’s currently done 350,000 so it’s tired as is.

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