OLM8

I get a kick out of this thing only costing me “beer money”

It’s not pretty up close, unrestored , original,
50 year old crazed thin and shitty paint etc

It’s not everyone’s cup of tea,

and I get that.

Out and about driving in traffic most fancy XY GT guys don’t even wave back.

The old Holden blokes do haha


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Thanks! geez I’m learning everyday.

My car still has the steelies that we’re on it when it was dragged off the farm.

Still has the same spark plugs in it to. Haha

gave it all “a tidy” and put some rego on it

It’s a budget car.
It’s cost me peanut money.




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I have larger centre 12 slot rims
70mm dia I think they are


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Thanks for that info

It’s definitely XY width.


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What’s the 2.77 highway diff like to drive ?? Rpm at 100km?

with a 250 6cyl and SR 4 speed Is it way to “over geared” for that engine ?

I did some asking around in the last few days and sure enough..

Got myself a 2.77 XY Diff fully complete , for the cost of a couple of boxes of beer.




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[quote post="248440" timestamp="1590810950"
 
the overdrive on a T5 with the 3.23 would be around 2000rpm. 
i've had the 2.92 and 2.77 with T5 and it's closer to
 
 
 


What model Falcon had
the 2.77 Diff ratio ?

Was it available in the XY?

I’ve never seen that
ratio for sale

Cheers


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Easy way would be to fully degrease and scrub the whole area ,,
like real finicky like .
then a short run would show the area it’s coming from ,,
speed and fans etc will “ move “ leaks from places , Ie blow crap everywhere ,,
so take good note of the leaks origins 

Hi all

Recently the carby housing on my stock 250log started to weep fuel while its being driven.

I’ve checked the flange nuts and the 2 large screws that hold the carb to the throat housing, all tight.

I’m suspecting it’s worn in the throttle butterfly shaft and actually weeping from there or possibly the mixture screw area.

The still runs ok, however the idle speed can sometimes be erratic.

I do believe the needle valve is not worn and the float level is ok as I have checked it.

Have you guy’s seen this before?

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance

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I was meaning not the whole input shaft but the small nose housing that the clutch throw out runs on.

If that can be bolted / transferred straight from the 3 speed to the 4 speed box.

There would be no need to either enlarge the Center hole of the bell or turn down the nose housing on the 4 speed.

Due to it already being a match from the 3 speed bell.

that’s how I understood it
could be wrong


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I like the idea of possibly swapping the input snout from the 3 to the 4


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The adaption of the single rail to 3 speed bell seems fairly straight forward. Centre hole enlargement and drill tap rh top bolt.

I already have a complete Cortina SR gearbox so I was thinking the one I got today would be great as spare box or parts.

I figured I would need a falcon or cortina clutch plate to suit the input splines of the SR4.

My existing pressure plate probably can stay.

The tailshaft I got today fits on the SR 4 speed so I figured I can
put that yoke on my xy tailshaft and adjust its length as needed.

Diff I could re ratio my housing with the crown wheel and pinion
from the 2.92 diff I picked up today. Yes it would appear it’s about 50mm wider.

Total cost not sure

Unlikely to be even close to the cost of the T5 conversion?

Today’s parts cost me $200
Plus a box of beer.

Probably outsource the tailshaft and diff re ratio and gear box freshen up with bearings & gaskets seals.


End result

Hopefully a better driving car for modern traffic and highways.

Here’s a pic from today’s parts haul



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Thanks for all that !

My current box - 3 speed borg column it is hydraulic on the passenger side.

So I could easily adapt a SR to that housing.and keep the current clutch set up.

I’m picking up all the bits late this afternoon so I can’t confirm the diff width at this stage.

The seller “thinks” it’s XA or Xb but him or I don’t know for sure

I will measure it up tonight.

FYI with the T5 , I would also need the S10 style centre shift rear housing to move the stick forward as I don’t want to cut the bench seat.

Hard to find one of those housings and the one made by that guy in Warwick QLD , he wants about $1580 wtf

So the T5 cost is going through the roof.

Getting quotes for the adapter bell and the centre shift rear housing plus the cost of the gear box , not to mention the cost of cut and shut the tail shaft , dead set would almost add up to what I paid for the whole friggin car.

So anyway even if I re ratio my existing diff with the 2.92 crown wheel and pinion might be a option.

So I guess in your experience you’re saying the
4speed SR with a 2.92 rear end is a really good combo ?

All I’m looking for is better for driving in modern traffic and hwy.

PS my engine is stock 250 log










The one that you can


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PS my wagon currently has a 3.23 rear end.


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What a difference a day makes...

I’ve just this morning scored a XA or XB , 2.92 borg high way ratio diff & another SR 4 speed box, both items complete with tailshaft etc and outwardly at least all in very good condition.

It sure has me wondering if fitting the SR with my cortina rear housing and then the 2.92 diff is almost the same? or better?outcome as the T5.

Only difference being it’s saving me a whole lot of money!

For example I got quoted $650 plus freight, just for the CRS T5 bell housing.

Your thoughts?




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I will use a CRS bell housing for this box.


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Here’s a story I wasn’t going to share, but it’s Friday night so what the hell..

I had a T5 which I brought new from a certain well known Tremec Gearbox supplier in Warwick QLD, it was for my 32 Ford Roadster. The new box cost me thousands $$$$$

To be honest, it was one of the worst boxes I’ve ever owned.

Everyone raves about them?
Phk me, what a piece of junk.

Went through about 4 of his crap internal hydraulic slave cylinders, that no matter what , just kept on leaking. So gearbox in out x5 to fit all them. The only lasted a few months and started to leak. Yes they were set up correctly.

Oil leaks at the speedo drive which was oil from the gearbox leaking internally into the speedo drive unit. Replaced that unit didn’t fix it.new one kept leaking no matter what.

The box came with one of his “short shift” gear selector housing.

Nothing short about the throw of the stick that I could see, it was long stick throw like a old bedford bus.

Also you couldn’t slam the box through the gears when you were frying the tyres. You felt every tooth on every synchro.

And backed up on top of all that the worst ever customer service in history from the supplier.

So anyway....

this is only my second ever T5 I’ve owned, this one cost me almost nothing.

This one brought it out of a wrecked sh$t old XF ute that had been driven around the clock about 10 times , doing the Wagga mail run and taken more hits than Mike Tyson.

I drove the ute to test the box, it was smooth and good!!!!

So we’ll see how it goes, I’d suspect a whole lot better!

Anyway I thought I’d share my only T5 experience and tears
from a few years ago.

Haha

Anyway back to my beer

Cheers


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4.1 never came with the pretend 5 speed. Yours will be a T5 100%. I have read that Falcons only ever got World Class T5s, never non-WC. The way to tell if it's WC or non-WC is if the front layshaft bearing plug is either an inverted Welch plug (slightly domed), or a machined plug with a dimple in the middle (actually a blanked tapered bearing cup). I am pretty sure that you'll have a WC box. I wouldn't put a non-WC box behind anything bigger than a 4 cylinder

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I thought the sigma one was like a single rail 5 speed

You know with reverse up and over on the left ?

This car has reverse under 5th down on the right.

That’s a T5 , no?


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The vehicle the box is coming from is a 1990 XF Ford Nissan Ute , carby crossflow 4.1.

It’s going into a XY wagon ,
bog stock Log6,

I figured it should be ok?

I don’t drive it like a WRX
or Ken Block.


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Maybe ! Good thinking.

I think the v8 T5 has that longer input shaft. I’m not sure of the cost of that.

CRS have that adapter at half the price of a bell housing.

Anyways thanks


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Very Interesting thank you


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Oh yeah

the XF Ute T5 box comes with a tail shaft so you never know it might fit.


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Thanks mate

That thread you posted was helpful but it also reminded me that I’m a long way from any welding or machine shop for milling etc

I was also thinking my 250 Toploader housing is probably worth something as factory so it would be a shame to modify it.

I think it’s made my mind up

Cheers



The XF ute box , I brought comes with tailshaft so


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Thanks for all that info.

I also took a look at that thread you posted.

To be honest ,now...

I’m thinking

I might buy a CRS Bell and maybe also buy the CRS g box crossmember.

As I can easily fit that up myself with basic tools and probably the only outside help I need is to cut and shut my tail shaft to suit it.


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I was just eyeing up the, 3 speed housing and top loader housing, i have, it looked as if there isn’t enough realestate on the lower face area to allow for the lower 2 bolts of the T5. Obviously I don’t have the XF T5 here yet to be able to measure anything.

I’m trying to avoid buying a CRS $$$ bell , to adapt the T5

Cheers


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