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Splashv8

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Posts posted by Splashv8

  1. Posted

    1 hour ago, Travis said:


    No they just blew it out, I can ask them to cut it open and clean it,8908b469b9833b7d057aca0a85a36355.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    This is the one I was going to order. Where is the best place to get good parts? Ebay is full of Fuelmizer and Tridon and Im not really keen on both.

  2. Posted

    21 hours ago, gerg said:

    Yeah and make sure it's that colour too... Very important

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
     

    If you look very careful you can see the words "Motorcraft" in small print on the inside of the tube. I believe they are a very limited edition used by Ford and where only available in Hot gay Pink or  Sassy Fluro Yellow.

    gerg reacted to this

  4. Posted

    56 minutes ago, Thom said:

    that is charcoal canister, you would definitely have a bad vacuum leak if that's split

    Ok, My apologies then dave. I was lucky the hardware store had an almost Identical 16mm rubber tube, So 

    I will undo that clip and replace it. 

  6. Posted · Edited by Splashv8
    Called Gerg Gert lol

    11 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

     

    Does it go to the Charcoal canister hard line, or the PCV?

    I see it has a flared end.

     

    Does this help?

     

    Windsor intake vacuum lines.jpg

    Thats a negative dave, Looks like number 23 on that Diagram? what do you guys say? Heres a pic of the connection, it runs all the way behind the Airbox Filter and disappears into the Abyss. Also yes it does have a clip on it thats hard to see in that pic,I will get the Long nose pliers out and remove it.

     

    https://imgur.com/pQVKuwZ

     

    Man I tried to download Tapatalk but its confusing, Can we lift the Max size of the Photos so I don't have to keep emailing them to myself then using Imgur?

     

    Good call on the length of Hose Gert, I will run Down to the Hardware shop and see if I can pick it up.

  8. Posted

    15 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

    Aftermarket Windsor distributor parts - cap/rotor etc, have caused me grief.
    I would suggest to only use genuine Ford (import from USA, through ebay USA).

     

     

    I agree, always best to spend that lil extra and get the quality stuff. I don't think the cap or rotor button  is OEM.

    8 hours ago, gerg said:

    When you say "running rough", could you give a more accurate description? As in a cyclic miss like when one or 2 cylinders are out full time, or is it a random miss like a really lumpy cam?

    The high idle sounds like either a vacuum leak or the computer compensating for whatever is making it run rough. The EEC V has lots of self-learning functions so if anything changes, it might do some strange things for a while because it may have been compensating for something before that it no longer has to. A good place to start is to remove battery terminals for 30 min, refit and then key-on engine off, full-throttle for 2 min and back to idle. I have read this myself in other forums and is supposed to reduce the amount of learn time required to get it running right.

    Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
     

    Yeah Gerg, I think you are right the ECU seems like its trying to re-adjust/learn and over compensate, its sounding more normal every time I turn it over. when it cools down outside I will disconnect the terminals like you said and start from scratch again. I also picked up Muzzas DTC device this avro, so I would like to run a diagnostic on it too, it may shed some light on the cylinder misfire.

     

    Its more of a boom.boom boom. bup bup, noise I can here out of the muffler, deff a misfire, not like a cross leads/wires sound but more of a Deep lumpy Stage 3 cam, then it almost stall, then rev to 2-3k.

     

    Its interesting you mention the Vacuum leak it was making a loud sucking noise last night when I kicked Monica over,I will also check the PCV. I will try and get some audio and video of it tonight its just too freakin hot out there right now to do anything.

    gerg reacted to this

  9. Posted

    46 minutes ago, bear351c said:

    5 litre Windsor with EFI ....??

     

    Yes mate for the Splash ute, Same motor as the XH Xr8 I think. I will hit it Tomoz after noon when I get off work. I think it's the Plug or the lead.

    but she sounds a lot better. I couldn't believe the condition of the Rotor button, it looked worn out.

  11. Posted

    I just finished replacing the spark plugs (used the Denso T16PR-U15) the Leads,Rotor button, and the cap

    But when I fired Monica up, it sounds very rough then will rev to 2-3k by it self then almost conk out, but won't.

    I was careful to number all the leads and mark the position on the Cap but Not sure where I have went wrong.

    I didn't gap the plugs if that helps? where have I gone wrong?

     

     

     

     

  12. Posted

    11 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

    I must admit my auto services have always been done by a mechanic with a flush machine, hook it up to the trans line and run the car, pumps old fluid out new fluid in, often takes 2x/3x times the fluid capacity to come out clean.

    I've also been using Penrite for years, engine, diff, gearboxes (auto and manual), brake fluid, greases.

     

    I too am guilty of paying the mechanic to flush it out with the machine, Ive done it without and its  bastard of job, you need 3 people to do it succesfully. 

     

    10 hours ago, bear351c said:

    Agreed Chris, they're relying on their name to sell. I worked in Spares for about 3 years, never saw a Castrol rep.....

    Saw NGK, Tectaloy, Penrite though.

    Not at all, Penrite and Mobil One are the only 2 oils that are approved/Meet and exceed the Mercedes Benz Standard were other oils don't....  there are also independent/scientific tests between the oils were you can clearly see the difference, there is a reason why Castrol Magnetic is $25 for 5 litres.....

  13. Posted

    1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

     

     

    A pan fill is only 4ltrs.

    The torque converter has another 30ltrs or so in it, hence you'd be mixing fluids... unless you knew what was in there before?

     

    Not the best idea to mix Mineral/Synthetic trans fluid I didn't think?

     

    My reasoning is that actual TQ95 still exists for a reason?

    I'd want to see some sort of viscosity info across the various available fluids, to compare.

     

    Spot on. one would have to do a complete flush/Vac and even then you wouldn't get all of it.

    I guess this is why log books are so important, you can see what oils/fluids were used in the past.

    I would still like to drain the old stuff and put in the Penrite stuff, Ive been using the HPR5-40 FS in the benz 

    and have never looked back. it is as good/better then the $30 a litre Mobil one oil

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