mcfly94

little suspensions travel will make the ride rougher,also rough roads will too.If you want a smooth ride,then stock suspension will do.What your chasing is suspension travel.

I have 70mm travel on the rear and about 25/30mm front.

60+ tyres and some low springs will fix it. These cars don't like being lowered or jacked up excessively because the camber bolt has very little adjustment to compensate for the unequal arm length.

well ive already got 65's , reason I ditched the 222/50 ftrs.

Im really thinking the poor quality no name shocks have something to do with it also

Im trying to soften up my suspension as its to harsh for bumps and everyday driving.

I have full nolathane through the front, all new control bushes, sway bar, ball joints, radius rod.

20mm Shock tower spacers and bump stops shortened 25mm.

Shortened shocks, which I plan on replacing with koni red adjustables. Will they give me a nice ride?
I also have superlow kings in the front, so im actually thinkning about raising the car up a bit.

I also run 205/65 15 tyres.

What else can cause such a rough ride?

Done it before. Seriously. I fkn hated it. Pull the engine out. Especially if your engine is carby.

 

Alternatively. Cut the fkn crossmember out and make a bolt on one. That crossmember gives me the shits.

next project haha!?

definitely take the engine out! bad enough changing a sump gasket with it still in the car!

Yeah im runninf a dry cell 575cca battery so its not that

yeah the vn is 85amp, which can be fitted to clevo alts, suppose its same deal for xflow

Sounds good, know the price on one of those?

 

that's not my problem I have dual 40 amp relays powered by a single 8awg cable from the battery.

still getting huge draws

 

 

i find if you power the relays up directly from the alternator youl not notice the drop at all as this sends direct power to fans when they fire up ,running power for fans from battery ,will show a drain as you draw all car power from positive terminal, 

 

that's what im thinking. I plan on changing the wiring setup.

problem is you need to wire them through a relay ,when i wired a pair into my 351 clevo EA i did exactly that then bought a 24 volt switch ,i also had them wired into a temp sender ,the switch was if i wanted to turn them on ! 55 amp alt plenty

that's not my problem I have dual 40 amp relays powered by a single 8awg cable from the battery.

still getting huge draws

Pffft... Mines running with its stock base model alt (30 or 35 amp) and it copes, just so long as I don't have highbeams and fan on.

 

That said, I don't have as much wiring mods as you.

Lucky, nor you have 2 amps, not that the draw is that much on them.

I have 55amp.

I will be running an Au alternator

 

on my AU motor.

You will be fine then

lol mine seems to cope with the stock alternator. the thermo's come on for a couple minutes then the engines cold. and im running amp and sub off the battery too

yes campo i knew i got ripped hahaha ripped good. its what happens when you get impatient and you want to take your car out for a spin

Mine hardly come on too, only in traffic stopped. And only for a few minutes, but my engine rpm drops when they turn on too.

make sure you guys are upgrading your alternators,. 60amp is no where near enough for them, my power system struggles and actually nicks power from other things

Hey guys, the little 60amp is not cutting it, drawing to much power when thermos are on

I use penrite oils mate, 10/40 I generally use for new engines that have had there tolerances checked and more performance orientated, 20/50 for general use and older engines. Others may disagree with me and the debate on oils will rage forever

Yeah I use penrite too, my engine is 300km old, had clean bores and was healthy looking when I got hold of it so I used 10/40.

what oil is best to use? I use 10w/40

but what idle mate? as soon as mine gets up to 900/1000 its at 25 psi

the lowest mine gets to is about 13psi on 650/700rpm idle, that's at temp.

10w-40 in a 300k motor

I would just use factory arms. I have to disgree on nolathane castor arm bushes as they are far better than the rubbber ones, something not right with yours???  As for roller bearing saddles you can get them shipped from the US I got mine from here ---> http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/ Also in regards to the bumps stops even though the upper control arms aren't resting on them you still need a decent amount of travel between them. Stock Rear sway bars on XCs are 18mm.

 

Roller bearing top for steering box, price has gone up used to be $90

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-STEERING-BOX-LID-FORD-XA-XG-F-SERIES-HOLDEN-HQ-WB-6-V8-KIRBY-BISHOP-/290938507978?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd4952ca

bloody oath the caster arm bushes are good!.

I have just bought a reco box with this mod, will make a huge different to my black slop box in their now.

but a general clean should always help shouldn't it?

yeah I actually may have around 19/20mm from factory if I remember correctly, ill get the vernires out and have a look.

I reckon someone should do up a detailed thread on porting a xflow head, would be interesting to see typical areas on the ports that need some work due to poor factory casting etc..

and clearly the idea of port work is too have the most flow and most direct shot to the cylinders so what is the most you can go? do they use an xray machine or something to check wall thickness?

yeh just dont go to thick or the ass will slide everywhere.

whats a good size ive seen 20 or 24mm

less body roll, forces the car to stay upright rather then leaning, if one side pushes up the other side is pulled down to counter act the effect.

 

roller spring sadles hes talking about instead of having a bush inside the spring saddle that it has a roller bearing, makes it freer to move.

mm well I just ordered a front 27mm for the xf, maybe rear will the next thing to do

I recommend Nolathene on the lower control arms , sway bar bushes , caster rods and idler arm. Don't bother putting nolathene on the upper control arms and the rest as it will do is make the ride harsher. Raising the suspension from the bumps stops will make it ride and handle much better. This set up matched with good springs, shocks, 27mm front sway bar, 18mm rear sway bar, roller bearing spring saddles and roller top conversion to the power steering box will make for an awesome handling car!

what are roller bearing spring saddles?

ive done most of this, and yes great handling, whats the benefits of bigger rear sway bar?

I have nolathane throught the front and is a harsher ride yet corner and steer well

I was in your situation not long ago, but It end up costing me $140, for second hand arm, lca bush and lower ball joint, nolathane complete arms where about $220 which I believe are actually factory ford items recond, or remanufactured to same spec, and then you have the rrs arms which have a riveted brace and I think there something like $450 last time I got a quote.

Id go second hand arm, nolathane bush, trw ball joint and do it yourself, unless you love race car mode? then you could go rrs