mcfly94

Seem weld the plate in around the outside of the plate.To do so I have to drill holes in the plate to plug weld in place and then weld around the plate to make a sound joint.Nothing can be to chance and it will get a gusset/plate from underneath aswell.

Yeah sounds good, that's all we do when we reinforce 4x4 chassis after the turkeys have bent them.

Can't wait to see it all come together, probably need some good bracing on them rails to make sure it stays square within 3mm

you make your own measuring tools to check square and level?

also what are your plans for the plates that cover the join from original chassis to new rail? 4mm would be suffice, and why are you seam welding over stitch, also no sharp edges on the plates, all nice curves , ive picked a few things been working at a chassis repair place for past for months.

Make sure you follow up on this Slydog, I'd love to see this setup. Would be a sight to behold.

 

On jetting, I'd reckon bigger than stock is needed as individual runners get a "pulsed" signal only 25% of the time (one stroke out of 4) so jetting may need to be bigger than expected. Also BG carbies have easily replaceable boosters, so you could experiment with different designs to get best performance. I highly recommend annulars as I fitted them to my 600. It feels like an EFI motor to drive.

 

Mcfly on the subject of annulars, you could get a 350 modified with annulars to give better torque and efficiency. Needs smaller jets too.

what do the annulars do?

well its an msd ripoff buy a brand no one has ever heard off.

id just go buy the msd over this

Door mounted splits are simple as! Just gets slightly difficult when you want to 6.5"

Nowhere another reason I went for xe dasg

what are the parts in the webber to cause it too run shit? the float? the jets?

poor alignment!

ah yep! now I see! I like that, looks neat, cheers mate!

No I didn't put it over the cavity, but right next to it   (if that's what you meant noobs, its to early in the morning mate hahaha)

ahh, alright well now I have a few ideas to fix mine,

was put in the boot because I preferred the look and wanted to give it ago!

Follow the manufactures recommendations and you can't go wrong. I use a AEM widebands on the speedway car and the burnout car. I put them a fair way down stream as that was the recommendation for leaded fuels (burnout car is on avgas) and high rpm use. Speedway car is on Meth and I have killed one sensor in the two years I've had it on.

 

Yes you will only be reading from one bank but that will be sufficient for the tuning you are after. There are kits available that have two sensors and are therefor more accurate but they are double the cost and really not worth it in your application. I would not be putting your sensor in the collector where both sides meet as I reckon you will have issues. Most factory stuff is close to the head so they must be onto something.

 

So to sum up I'd be sticking with the manufactures recommendations, at least then you will have some chance at warranty should you have a sensor failure. Suggestion only

I meant on the last collector on the extractor, so only one bank, not where the two meet.

but steve did you just put it over the cavity without putting anything there?

got a photo? im lost?

is it really secure? dosent flex? well move

This is where mine is. Don't mind the messy wiring shit and holes. Needs a big tidy up. I made a bracket to bolt in over the hole.<br />

but how did you mount it to the body (rear quarter), mine flex's upwards, because I cant bolt it the body.

I thought they were supposed to go in the collecter? well that's where ive got mine

Hey guys whats the best spot, because theres nothing really to mount it to in left boot well, as theres a cavity there, I have 4 mm alloy plate over the cavity and bolted using to bolts through the boot floor but it flexes and battery isn't very secure.

How did everyone do there battery to the boot in the xf's?

To be a little more guiding to my issue, it only gets real lean when cold mornings, warm day runs fine and dosent stall, just have issue with the idle mixture.

Wonder if old leads would be playing a part in it, and possibly incorrectly gapped plugs.

Maybe your comp is down on 2 and 5??? Does she rattle? Get a new Weber, yours must be stuffed. 

dosen't rattle at all, ill get a compression tester, but im pretty sure the motor is good.

The idle circuit mixture adjustment and idle speed screw is all that you should have too touch.

 

Your volumetric efficiency hasn't improved at all so why put anything else but a Weber on it? Your engine makes no Power past 3,000rpm dude.

no matter how much I play with the tune, I can not get the thing to run well.

and my weber is clean, was fully stripped down and had a major kit put through it.

If you can run an aftermarket manifold a 465 everyday of the week for me.

standard motor?

Another Weber.....Stock crossflow = Cast iron turd

a carb that has more than one dial to tune it (how on earth am I supposed get good afr at idle and cruise and wot?), and im not paying someone else to set one up.

Hey guys, my weber isn't running the best, idle mixtures inconsistent and all over the joint, some times mixture leans right out.

Like AFR's are 14.7 idle then sometimes between 12 and 15 at cruise and then if I come back to a stop it sometimes gets up to 16.

Want something that I can tune real good to suit my engine.

250 is pretty standard just runs a 2.5" exhaust and extractors, street fire ignition, bigger valves in the head.

What are other options over 350, 500, 465?

What would be the best?

mate knox car carpets do moulded carpets for most cars i got the plush one for my ute its mint and the best carpet makers ive used

 

i hate my ute the carpets and trims so good i dont want to drive it LOL

make sure you buy plush! not loop, I bought loop and the shit is crap! frayd, and knotting, cow to vacuum, Ill be changing to a plush carpet.

On another note whats better normal plush or super plush?

For 250-300hp a stock pump is more than fine just wondering why it needs a new diff first? Any BW diff will cope with X-flow HP on it's ear.

 

 

Yes I was a very scared witness to this...I also reved a 260,000km bottom end to 7200 in top gear once and after about 20-30sec the flywheel was loose,balancer pully was loose,torque convertor bolts started coming loose,flywheel was fucked by the time I got home infact...LOL Was fun though... 

Cool, and ive got an eb lsd, got it second hand, unfortunately wasn't the best condition, has a whine at 80kmh+, so either spiders or bearings.

Yep, what Rev said. Nolathene will last 4 times longer, but, with that strength you get harshness. Use Nolathene on the hardest wearing parts, like sway bar links.

As you've stated, your car is now firm and corners on rails, but, all the screws will fall out of your dash in 12 months. . . . .

 

(King springs are 15% firmer than standard springs, no matter what height)

haha I have actually needed to tighten things down a lot tighter!

Honestly i would go rubber/genuine bushes.

do they really make that much of a difference over nolathane?, as they have tightened the feel and the car is more responsive and hardly sloppy and I haven't even changed my stuffed steering box yet.

Do spring saddles make a difference, mine are the factory ones?