mcfly94

Ive already got extractors, free flowing 2.5 exhaust with single muffler, slightly bigger valves on both intake and exhaust on the head.

I think I have to run a converter with 517, think I might just buy a converter, seems like im going to be wasting my time if I don't, and im going to change from 3.27 to 3.45 gears.

Ill have to start getting some bits together!

thinking I might go for the camtech 517, run a double row chain, some good valve springs, and some roller rockers on my engine

Does it have injector cut outs?

from what I remember yes 99% sure. its hf-5, cant really measure look at anything else its running on my car atm

well it is unmarked, so it could be an e head, alright cool.

another note, what pistons would I need to get comp around 10:1, im running the d head, this is it

im a fan of the 14892 it a little cracker of a cam and ive made some good numbers with it little randys car runs 14.7 with that cam 465 no head work but big springs mid high 9s in comp and no stall convertor

so the 214 wakes up the crossflow?

the camtech 517 would definitely wake up the 250 though yeah, would have a bit more grunt?

This may sound hypocritical coming from me but why do you want to turn it to 6k if you want it as a daily?

so I can have some fun it, the 4500 isn't enough for me.

does your car have a big solid stick and idle at 1200rpm?  let me tell you they shift hard with the transgo full race option when your idle is that high.  Transgo don't do stages like B&M. 

 

What I can't work out is why this thing failed after the skid and after it had driven off the pad.  The car was parked at idle and then failed on selecting drive not while being flogged. 

 

Thanks again - I'll keep researching.

haha nope, but yeah a transgo kit, heard nothing but bad stuff about b&m

lacks size in what area, duration?, whats a good size for a hydraulic cam then? I want something that revs to 6k, makes a fair bit of torque, runs off standard converter with 3.45 gears.

or cant 6k and standard converter go in same setup?

So you want a HYD cammed engine? Ask Q what he runs (I think it is a 528) as his car has run 14.7 but at 94MPH so it has a 14.2 in it atleast maybe 14 flat.Not bad for a NAT ASP EFI x-flow with a T5 and 3.23 gears.I like the 510 or a small solid but if going auto you NEED a 3000 convertor and 3.7's to get the best out of em.Could run a set of 3.45's if running a smaller tyre though.   

sure do, what sort of cam will run best with 3.45, I have 3.27 at the moment but want to run 3.45, don't want any lower.

pump is all good as I had it out to do the pump bush.  fluid is fine also. goes into reverse still with a solid thud like the shift kit gives it.  Just no fwd gears.  if the pump was shot i'd have no reverse I would think.  thanks for your suggestions tho. 

it shouldn't thud to hard into reverse!, mine certainly dosent, full stage 2, performance bands, frictions clutches, heavy duty converter.

next thing youd probably have to look into is selector alignment and play? in the trans itself, or maybe something more serious like the gear sets or planetary  

im actually looking at running the camtech 528, I noticed a few use this, any good?

what solid?

Windsor still use 5/16th uncle...thats the kit you buy to do a x-flow with.

 

And no it doesn't need small jets it needs to be jetted to suit the engine's needs via a wideband,plug check and so on.

ahkay cool.

Well ive a fitted an innovate wb02, but yet to get some new leads, and plugs, on that note what do I gap the plugs for? think comp is 9:1

I wouldn't know.

I definitely got that bit haha, balance my bottom end flexplate to balancer.

he said resize for 302 Windsor bolts and nuts? are Windsor bolts bigger than 5/16"?

Ahkay, so I am definitely safe to get me a 465 for a fairly standard 250, just will need some small jets.

I want to hear anything.

an your pump could also be gone, when other things let go its generally due to heat, and c4's overheat when pump is no good, I just found out after having my c4 rebuilt

that or a simple fix of low fluid!

i spoke to engine builder today about what I wanted to do.

Mild cross flow, spin to 6500.

He said I may have trouble safely spinning the standard 250 bottom end to that, but 6000 is doable with balancing.

Straight away he said arp rod bolts.

Even he thought with 230* duration, 550 lift and 110lsa a 465 carby still may overfuel the car.

Well would I be good to go for a 465 with annular boosters?

And ive decided im going mild xflow so would the 465 flow enougb for 300hp dont want to have to buy two carbs, will be run off aussie 4 barrel

good read mate a fair whack of work in that

 

lets boost somthing

soon, just got to rebuild diff and then all will be focusing on motor and setup!

I've been thinking about boosting my wagon...

Well you have the info to do it! get to it!

yeah they are pretty much a one piece thing, you can glass over the vinyl im pretty sure, im sure someone has before.

Better off finding a method to fill the gaps between or card and pod and then have them covered in a material.

kings sell 'super low' height leafs im pretty sure, resetting standard leads can be pricey!

Cost depends on what you do?

You should do some new shocks along with your springs

All aus the same?

Nope only 10mm over, so only needs to move 5mm

And would anyone be able to tell the dimensions of factory the factory watts link?

I think I would only need to add about +-20mm of adjustment max to correct the problem, so I should be able to draw something up on cad.

Hey guys, every knows the problem with coil sprung falcons that the diff does not sit correctly and one wheel is in a different position compared to the other in correspondence to the arches.

I was thinking it had something to do with the watts link.

Would it be possible to make a adjustable set of arms to pull the diff back to centre?