mcfly94

where abouts mate, I have one on my bedroom floor ready to measure

im keen to see how you went aswell

How difficult was it mate? seriously considering doing this myself at home too

oh so you bought the polished gear of nova! get that shit on asap

Yes there is.

I just had my c4 done a week ago.

Cost just over $1500 including heavy duty standard converter, but not including any valve body stuff as it had been done already, and new pump assembly, full c4 overhaul, using performance frictions and clutches, standard rebuilt clevo 'r' servo, new gearset and cooling mods.

This ran through a B&M supercooler.

Thing shifts real nice and firm yet I probably wouldn't push anymore than 400hp past it.

Even with all those mods I still consider my trans to be standard.

I did a lot of research and any more and the more $$$ mods were needed, as such as adding clutches, billet plantary etc.

stage 2, heavy duty frictions and clutches, cooling mods, deep sump.

Next step would to be too add extra clutch in the forward drum, billet (4 or 6) pinion planetary set, billet 'c' servo

Then you could go billet input shaft, and full rollerize to use bearings instead of thrust washers.

Its not gearbox strength I'm after - I believe BW autos to be fine. I know a stock one that sits reliably behind a mild Windsor, has done for years.

 

Anyway, reason I'm considering a BTR is for the overdrive gear, rather than having top being 1:1 ratio.

 

I'd rather a BTR than AOD simply for ease of parts if need be.

then go manual if you want overdrive, the amount of work involved on that bell is ridiculous, it would be easier doing a 4l conversion

The cost of bellhousing mod blows the idea out the window, I looked at it once and only found one bloke that did it, why not just get a rebuilt c4 way better than thr junk bw40

talk to the cam dealer, about what they recommend

Proflow stuff is fine.  Its distributed by VPW.  Speed flow is good to, a little bit more expensive but Australian made.  The Fitting into the cover is a -12 weld-on machined down to be a press fit into the hole in the rocker cover.  It would be better to get it tig welded in but then it depends on what your cover is like.  With Dave's being polished it would ruin it without getting it re-polished..  Press fit and some loctite is all good tho cos your not talking bugger all pressure.

Well I actually want to run a pcv valve so ill just get polished one those instead and join the braided hose to that so I don't need a fitting.

Proflow and speedflo are both good!

How do proflow fittings fit to the cover?

yeah im getting braided hoses and polished fittings like pro250 when I figure out where to get them

a.) Run one to a catch can then to the plenum. Ie, between the throttle butterfly and the head so it causes a low pressure in the engine/sump. this will give your sump vacuum and reduce oil leaks. Run the other line to the air cleaner. make sure it is getting FILTERED air or you will suck dust into your engine and intake.

b.) Block one off. the other, run to a catch can and then vent to atmosphere. Make sure the catch circuit it is as free flowing as possible and includes a diffuser or you will 1 spatter oil all over the engine bay. and 2, the engine will get a positive crankcase pressure and cause oil leaks from every conceivable seal that isn't perfect.

 

 

As for the manifold spacer. Make one out of marine ply, sand and lacquer it. Make sure the one you use is fuel and oil resistant. use the money you save to buy a jigsaw and a scotch carton. Post pics.

With this, Id rather run a catch can setup, pcv valve from original back spot to catch can. When you say between throttle butterfly and head, can I just use the spot on the factory carby manifold? I want to run my PCV to this spot after it passes through the catch can.

With the other line can I go directly to air cleaner from the rocker cover? what do you mean filtered, what filters it?

But with the smaller tube, how do I even get a hose on it? its a smooth tube?

There's no reason a cork gasket should leak on a thick EFI cover.Thoughly clean both surfaces with a alcohol based cleaner, a very light smear of RTV sealant on both sides of the gasket then set on the head and place cover on top and do it up in sequence and dont go overboard.My Aussie speed unit never leaks with a cork gasket when done as above.

I did the same method on my normal steel cover and worked perfect, just wanted if it work for the EFI cover

PM Jase is my suggestion but you get what you pay for.I was very happy with my price though.You don't have to use ARP,I only did cos I wanted em all the same,black.But standard carby studs will do IMO. 

what his username?

Mine was a custom made unit by Jase Stoodley.Guy is still on his honeymoon so he won't be in a hurry to get back out in the shed anytime soon I'd imagine.Worked VERY well on the ute but as I'm going methanol I don't need one anymore for this engine but mine is not for sale either as I have enough spares to make a very bad ass spare x-flow.

Would it be beneficial to run the 12mm over 6mm? and does he charge much?

12mm manifold spacer? if so where can I get one, not listed on aussiespeed website, or is it different brand?

Do you just use ARP kit?

Thanks sly!

Hey guys, the only reason I want to run one is clearance for the EFI rocker cover while maintaining stock intake. NO im not grinding my freshly polished rocker cover.

Lots of questions too, which I hope you can help me with.

1. Now do I need to run normal manifold gaskets either side of the 6mm spacer?
2. And also do you guys run a sealant on your manifold gaskets, I don't.
3. And is it possible to get manifold studs? 6mm longer than factory if possible.
4. And can I run a cork gasket with light film of sealant on the efi rocker cover?
5. Theres two holes in the top of the cover, one for PCV valve and the other apparently for the EFI throttle body, what do I with when used with carby, do I run it to the air cleaner like carby cover setup? if so how do I attach a hose to it?

Thanks in advance guys

sheet metal cut outs definitely look the best

It really is combo dependent on comp vs octane needs

Thought as much, so once you have a combo? how do you know what octane you need? just up the octane till pinging stops? surely not?

Most of us try to help around here even you do McFly so keep your replies coming.Not everyone acts like he doe's and as shown he was wrong anyway but that type of comment or attitude is far from helpful or not needed here.We can all have different views but we can voice them like adults too.

yeah I know.

back on topic, how can we derive a rule of thumb for octanes relative to comp?

Some believe you can run comps of 10:1 and slightly higher on 91.

Yet dads zj in the shed will ping if he doesn't get his octane up to about 108 and that's about 11:2 comp.

So really it depends on the combo?

Just sat back down with a coffee and realised I mistook the advertised figures as the .050" specs..... :$

 

Apologies Mcfly, but in regards to comp that dude will definitely need rocket fuel

Mate if im wrong tell me? just don't dismiss what I say, how on earth is anyone supposed to learn anything if people are like that?

want to run main switch in console like xe, but not xe switch

was hoping to only have to run two wires in front doors for motor,

run extra relays in console with the main switch

and run what ever wires I have to in the rear doors.

how many wires do you need to pass inside the front doors for the power windows? just two for the motor?