mcfly94

you can upgrade your ignition aswell

eL?

aerochamber is too loud on a daily especially if you have gears and do highway driving, im talking 3.23+ and up gears with a 3 speed it will be pretty damn loud!

bead blasting cost like $30 for a manifold, id just do that

120 amp. Do not use 6 awg. Get 4 awg and be done with it. 6 is a bit small for peak load at 120 amps. And yes. Go directly to battery, do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars. Make sure you upgrade your negitive wire from the batter to engine and engine to chassis with at least 4 awg.

haha listen to this man!, I say go all the way and use 0ga, least you know you got plenty!

what ever you do buy plush and press mould fit, some say mould and its only rough and actually dosent sit how its supposed to!

I payed $170 for knox carpet for the xf and it was shit, I hate it, never sat properly! mould wasn't done properly

ive got a pic in my thread to off the amp panel I made

bud your sub box is supposed to be matched with your sub, not the box matched with the car.

Figure out the required volume for your sub and work out your dimensions given that your going to have a max height on the sub box due to the shallow x-series boot!

I also use penrite full synthetics, I ran 10/40 in my 250xflow falcon with 300xxxkm and it was fine with oil pressures. 12.5 PSI hot engine idle at 550/600-rpm

yeah I went for high sensitivity speakers when I got my new ones, my infinities are are 95db, alpine are useless for that there all about 83db

id say a running electrical system is more around 13.6v crazy??? all my cars run around there, the xf drop to about 12.6v measured at the battery through the small 8awg, and ran at about 13.6 at the dash and engine

yeah you got plenty of adjustment on that, you just need to know what they do to get your sound, tell us how you go, what the sounds doing for you and what you want to happen to the sound for it to sound better

As Hendrix said will be fine, but my opinion is,

Always by an amp with the same rms rating or slightly bigger.

Youll find some brand you can over run there rms rating, like my Rockford fosgates which just kept going and going no distortion.

If your just starting with audio you probably wont notice the difference when running the speakers at say 50rms or 80rms but you would notice the 120.

At the moment my front speaker setup is Infinity 6.5" components with Tweeters, 90rms speakers and 90rms tweeters running through a 2ch amp which only produces 85rms

And pretty much ive found the amps 'quality' to be shit over how much power it can provide my speakers, hell it can provide shits loads of power and there so god damn clear with amazing clarity, but! the db and crossover control is non adjustable and only has one or the other settings!

So in the end quality over quantity! Fusion does not fall under quality btw, that's the 2ch amp im running, worst control on that amp!

And definitely fiddle with settings, set all to zero on headunit, and then set the settings on the amp, and then if you want to reduce bass or increase treble on the fly use the headunit!

Youll get it!, audio is easy!

yes worth the money huge increase in handling

I'm looking at building a 600hp demon reving at 7200-8000rpm i'm thinking keeping standard bore but stroking it to a 393 etc, chi heads and manifold to match 750 holley big cams etc what should I set aside budget wise

dunno if youll get to that rpm band with a stroker kit, standard 351 you can for sure though, 750 holley might be a bit small for those revs too however depends on comp/cam etcc./.

I have all xf wiring, want to use separate looms for mirrors anyway, not the xf intertwined in the whole loom, ill have a look

Hey guys I have an xe dash in my xf and have non electric xe mirrors, are the wiring plugs for the mirrors on the dash already or do I have to add them?

Remove the gas is my idea haha, never known a single car to run well duel fuel, not au's not ba's, not xf's, not vy's, not vt's, cars weren't designed to run dual fuel, except a few that run okay that are factory fitted

Hey guys so what are the main differences?

Like what do you need to run a solid or why would you even go solid?

isn't it just concrete tile gap filler set in the block to prevent core shift?

true or just go buy the arrow Cleveland block

I reckon you should hunt for a better clevo block, get it sonic tested too see how much meat is on there and try get a real good one! try to get no more than 20thou over, then if need be go 10thou over the bores, will sweet for revs and comp

Thats exactly what I didnt want to do, bit dogey, and dont plan on running standard intake forever

nice but sort out the plate they mount on! has a rough bottom edge? is that from a plasma cutter?

Don't want a manual, I'm enjoying the laziness of automatic.

 

Yeah, I did get the polished stuff. Hopefully putting it on this weekend!

Sweet as, I just picked up an efi rocker cover, and just had it polished, but I cant put mine on yet, need braded lines, polished pcv valve, manifold spacer, polished cover bolts etc..