mcfly94

You'd be suprised how good the weber carby can be.

If it's rebuilt, rejetted and tuned correctly.

 

They're an overcomplicated thing, but good when working well.

 

One of the main reasons Holly 350's feel faster, is because both primary and secondaries open at the same time.

 

With the weber's, the secondaries are progressive, to save on fuel.

i rebuilt all the diagraphms etc, hasnt been tuned properly or jetted

After all, speed is just a question of money................ how fast do you want to go?

i want it to pull as hard as my mates ecotec, thats got like 160kw, and thats hell of alot nicer to drive and pulls way harder. and his is standard except 2 1/4" exhaust and still has standard 3,08 ratio

What carb/intake setup do you have?

all the shitty standard crap.

Cheap and performance are not in the same sentence or you are asking the wrong question.Budget is the key,make a HONEST budget and plan on that.If it works out go for it if not alter/change thoughts,standards,expectations and see what you end up with then see if you would be happy or not.

 

Nothing is ever as easy as it is written so don't think a fresh AU engine and conversion would be cheaper either.  

yeah nothings seeming easy at the moment! -__-, id say my budget would be 2k over the next 6/7 months, to build up parts to do the mods, really wouldnt want to spend more than that.

Also remember, that a crossy won't like a large diameter freeflowing exhaust system either.

 

If you've got no backpressure, you'll lose alot of lowdown torque.

owwww, yeah its pretty damn free flowing, full 2.5" with hooker aerochamber and resonator.

For a mild crossy, you're really limited by the following - extractors, intake manifold, High torque cam, and reducing engine load by removing clutch fan, and adding thermo's instead.

 

After that, start looking at things like torque converter, diff gearing, etc. 

(but you'll use more fuel)

 

Following that, it's headwork to improve breathing. Larger valves, and HD valve gear.

 

On from that, is balancing the rotating assembly, stronger rods, forged pistons, ARP fasteners, grouting the block, crank girdle, etc.

Ive done extractors and full 2.5" exhaust and running twin el thermo fans.

Ive got an eb2 3.27 lsd diff, and c10 with std converter.

Head has been fully recond with new springs std. and larger inlet and oulet valves, not too big but bigger than standard.

You would get more torque/power economically, by adding a low boost turbocharger.

 

But even that is expensive unless you're on straight gas, or EFI.

yeah not going down turbo avenue, it almost sounds like the cheapest and most reliable option is a standard fresh au motor?

yeah i understand what your saying, just thought there would be straight foward mild work to give a kick, cause at the moment id prefer to drive a bloody sr20, its got shit all pull and dosent like to pull in low rpm to around 2000+, my old nissan sr20 na used to pull revs like crazy!

You are reading this all wrong bro.You can have a 900hp car run 12's or a 400hp car run 11's.Which do you want? A dyno figure is just that and means next to nothing,a ET slip speaks real HP.Which brings us to the true purpose of the car and what you expect to receive for your $$$.If you want something fast and reliable you NEED to spend money and not just on the engine.You need to spend money on the ignition,fuel system,exhaust,induction suspension and brakes and safety to get close to what you want.

 

A fast car is not a big HP engine it is a car that has ALL the correctly matched bits from head to sump and everything in between plus the convertor,gearing fuel used,ignition,suspension,tyres (if it has 250hp if will smoke street tyres easy) and above all MONEY.

 

Can't do fast cheap so stop asking the impossible as we have all asked it well before you and found out the hard way fast = $$$ and concessions cos a fast car is not a everyday car.Ask your self what you truly want,research and plan the build,ask all the questions then be prepared to spend the money.No way around it bro...  

how do i gain torque then, i definitely feel it needs a change of cam, because it pulls shit all, until i hit about 2000+rpm

Because they're a big dirty tractor engine in standard form, designed to live at 2,000rpm for most of the day.

 

In everyday driving, you can't take advantage of high end power anyway.

Make maximum use of what the long stroke six cyl does naturally - generate heaps of low down torque.

I would just try to build on that, unless you want to spend a fair wack of money.

 

You'll feel an extra 50nm of torque, so much more than another 50hp.

I would suspect if you wanna make 250 wheel hp your gonna need to rev it over 5k? Besides, you don't wanna be stuck in 4k town like i was for 5 bloody years.

 

Id also recommend the ignition Sly talked about up there ^

 

Defs roller rockers, Silly not too.

 

Put on a billet dizzy gear.

Yeah i heard about the dizzy gear, and i saw how much cheaper scorpion rockers are!

Using your head rebuild the bottom end with the 8cc pistons, nothing special needed for the rotating assembly just a decent balancer, I would have the intake ports just cleaned up with some blending in the bowls, use a 4 barrel manifold either the aussiespeed or a redline cleaned up because there casting is pretty average, 465 vac sec Holley, pacemaker headers, Cleveland scorpion roller rockers (you will have some spare) they are fine and cheaper then the YT set. Cam tech ct142 528 camshaft and there recommended valve springs, regraph the XE dizzy or better still go for the TFI dizzy and MSD 6al-2 programmable ignition.

Your diff gears will be fine and a 2200/2500 stall would be good.

That should reliably get you over 250hp.

Others may tweak this combo, hope that helps.

Cheers

what ratio scorpion rockers? and are they direct bolt on?

Forget about HP for a daily.

 

I'd go for bulk torque, with say 150hp.

It'll jump off the line, and feel pretty damn fast, without seeming like it's going to drop it's guts.

 

Unless you balance the rotating assembly/EF crank etc,

a 4.1ltr crossflow will not reliably tolerate anything more than about 4250rpm.

really? why cant they take more? pretty disappointing if thats all they make reliably!

its close at the moment, but im finding its running rich, but if i lean it out, it runs like shit, so i think im loosing power there.

A stock crossie with a 500 holley 2 barrel manifold, extractors/ 2.5 inch exhaust and a t5/3.23 diff

will give those heavy shit heap VT-VY commos a good run at the lights.

 

so many people see 250 motors as crap but they can produce heaps of mid range torque cheaply 

and it would have to go with 3.27 gears and auto with high stall if need be, it would be good to get it to rev to 5500. I found street terra bolt ons for around $550 which It definitely get if If they benefit.

what combination would then? im really aiming to get to 250hp reliably.

what sort of power would that make, i really want at least 250hp.

crow 214 214 stock head no rollers stock dissy coil extractors will work with your 500 but will feel stronger with a 4 barrel this will work with a stock stall auto and stock gears and will pull good and all sorted out nice will keep/beat you mates crapodore easy fit 3.45s and he will have no chance and will not fall to bits cause its a small engine

so im pretty new to building any type of motor, and what im pretty much asking is whats the best setup for the this area? i want it to last, and will spend whats needed to get it there, just plain on slowly building the motor up in the shed.

so what would each of you reccommend?

Hey guys i been looking into building my crossflow a bit as im sick of the measly 100kw, drove my mates vy ecotec last night and this thing has so much more power, power that i want.

Im looking to build the motor within the 250hp to 300hp bracket. Ive gone through glens old threads on the forum and ive figured the gist of most i think, but i still have a few q's!

So far my plan is:

• Fit Crow 14650 cam with valve springs collets retainers valve locks and anti pump up lifters to suit.
• 2bbl aussispeed manifold with 6mm heat soak spacer
• 500cfm 2barrel holley with 1/2 phenolic spacer
• Fit ARP Rod bolts
• Regraph dizzy to suit cam
• Crow double row timing chain
• New std. oil pump

Now the Q's, i want to aim to put up my CR to around 10.6:1, i think its at about 8.6:1

At the moment im running an early open chamber alloy head (pretty sure xd because of the shallow chambers) i think this has a cc chamber of around 53, it is a fully reconditioned head, that has been stripped blasted, and larger valves were fitted (inlet and outlet). And im running i think 22cc dished pistons (99% sure).

Can i get to 10.6:1 cr without roller rockers? im happy to build to only take 5000rpm.

With the rebuild kit would i be able to use the ACL 8cc dished pistons, which should bring it up to around 10.1:1, yet i want it around 10.6:1 and flats would go to far at around 11.1:1, could i shave the head? and if i could how much would i shave to get that extra 0.5:1 compression?

Things i dont want to do are roller rockers, guide andbowl work on the head, unless there a really a huge benefit cause i have a mate that could work my head pretty cheap, but are the price of roller rockers worth it? And 200 pistons and rods. I want to keep the standard rods.

I also dont want to go an amplified ignition system, however what dizzy would be best to use? i have the vacuum advanced type.

Also with ARP rod bolts on stock 250 rods, what type are required and what works required to fit them?

i hope you guys can set me in the right direction!

enlighten us on the cost?

XE front wont be hard, but when you go to buy paint jade green, you'll get a nasty shock, its a rare colour and to do my hole car in 2k is fucking expensive.

Hey guys, im have not even an index finger clearence between my factory bump stops and my UCA's. I was hoping to get them down to leave 15mm behind, is this suffice?

Hey guys, my rocker gasket leaking out the back of the rocker cover, and the gasket has soaked up a fair amount of oil, i take it from when i give it some revs everynow and then.

Do they make one?, maybe a better rocker cover to use?

you have to weld a flat metal section in to bolt the headlight on, but the rest is straight forward

Sweet! shall have to source some!

Hey guys, ive fitted the XE dash to my xf, cause we all know ugly the damn thing is, but i cant put in the under column fuse cover because the xe one dosent fit over the xf column covers, so i need to fit XE coloumn covers, will they fit or should i just go get an xe column! ?