mcfly94

dosen't rattle at all, ill get a compression tester, but im pretty sure the motor is good.

no matter how much I play with the tune, I can not get the thing to run well. and my weber is clean, was fully stripped down and had a major kit put through it. standard motor?

a carb that has more than one dial to tune it (how on earth am I supposed get good afr at idle and cruise and wot?), and im not paying someone else to set one up.

make sure you buy plush! not loop, I bought loop and the shit is crap! frayd, and knotting, cow to vacuum, Ill be changing to a plush carpet. On another note whats better normal plush or super plush?

Hey guys i been looking into building my crossflow a bit as im sick of the measly 100kw, drove my mates vy ecotec last night and this thing has so much more power, power that i want. Im looking to build the motor within the 250hp to 300hp bracket. Ive gone through glens old threads on the forum and ive figured the gist of most i think, but i still have a few q's! So far my plan is: Fit Crow 14650 cam with valve springs collets retainers valve locks and anti pump up lifters to suit. 2bbl aussispeed manifold with 6mm heat soak spacer 500cfm 2barrel holley with 1/2 phenolic spacer Fit ARP Rod bolts Regraph dizzy to suit cam Crow double row timing chain New std. oil pump Now the Q's, i want to aim to put up my CR to around 10.6:1, i think its at about 8.6:1 At the moment im running an early open chamber alloy head (pretty sure xd because of the shallow chambers) i think this has a cc chamber of around 53, it is a fully reconditioned head, that has been stripped blasted, and larger valves were fitted (inlet and outlet). And im running i think 22cc dished pistons (99% sure). Can i get to 10.6:1 cr without roller rockers? im happy to build to only take 5000rpm. With the rebuild kit would i be able to use the ACL 8cc dished pistons, which should bring it up to around 10.1:1, yet i want it around 10.6:1 and flats would go to far at around 11.1:1, could i shave the head? and if i could how much would i shave to get that extra 0.5:1 compression? Things i dont want to do are roller rockers, guide andbowl work on the head, unless there a really a huge benefit cause i have a mate that could work my head pretty cheap, but are the price of roller rockers worth it? And 200 pistons and rods. I want to keep the standard rods. I also dont want to go an amplified ignition system, however what dizzy would be best to use? i have the vacuum advanced type. Also with ARP rod bolts on stock 250 rods, what type are required and what works required to fit them? i hope you guys can set me in the right direction!

Cool, and ive got an eb lsd, got it second hand, unfortunately wasn't the best condition, has a whine at 80kmh+, so either spiders or bearings.

haha I have actually needed to tighten things down a lot tighter!

do they really make that much of a difference over nolathane?, as they have tightened the feel and the car is more responsive and hardly sloppy and I haven't even changed my stuffed steering box yet. Do spring saddles make a difference, mine are the factory ones?

I have 70mm travel on the rear and about 25/30mm front.

well ive already got 65's , reason I ditched the 222/50 ftrs. Im really thinking the poor quality no name shocks have something to do with it also

next project haha!?

definitely take the engine out! bad enough changing a sump gasket with it still in the car!

Yeah im runninf a dry cell 575cca battery so its not that

yeah the vn is 85amp, which can be fitted to clevo alts, suppose its same deal for xflow

Going to blow over some of my car, where I have just etch from where I got surface rust off, and paint new guards and bonnet. After all tips and advice and ill be using acrylic. I have a huge compressor and regulator, going to get a gun tomorrow, found a HVLP with 3 nozzles think it was 1.5, 1.7 and 2 for $130 at Gasweld (now known as Adelaide tools) The rear quarter will need bog and I plan on using fibreglass reinforced bog, got it already. Now so far, I have rust converted the panel and etched it, and now I want to bog, got normal bog in the at the moment but wasn't completed so ill take it out and do it again properly. After that do I high fill primer? then base coat? then clear?

Sounds good, know the price on one of those?

that's what im thinking. I plan on changing the wiring setup.

that's not my problem I have dual 40 amp relays powered by a single 8awg cable from the battery. still getting huge draws Lucky, nor you have 2 amps, not that the draw is that much on them. I have 55amp. You will be fine then Mine hardly come on too, only in traffic stopped. And only for a few minutes, but my engine rpm drops when they turn on too.

make sure you guys are upgrading your alternators,. 60amp is no where near enough for them, my power system struggles and actually nicks power from other things

Yeah I use penrite too, my engine is 300km old, had clean bores and was healthy looking when I got hold of it so I used 10/40.

what oil is best to use? I use 10w/40

but what idle mate? as soon as mine gets up to 900/1000 its at 25 psi

the lowest mine gets to is about 13psi on 650/700rpm idle, that's at temp. 10w-40 in a 300k motor

bloody oath the caster arm bushes are good!. I have just bought a reco box with this mod, will make a huge different to my black slop box in their now.

but a general clean should always help shouldn't it?