mcfly94

I want to paint my ba xr8 wheels silver to, whats the brightest silver paint name/code? I want to have the painted professional in a metallic finish

yeah id probably have to spend more on installation of dynamat etc, noise cancelling then the speakers themselves

I demoed the $1200 focals, and wow, nothing ive heard can compare as yet, wouldn't mind hearing these morels. dunno if anyone in sa stocks them.

thrown away

bash off!, careful of the arm though!

you can upgrade your ignition aswell

eL?

aerochamber is too loud on a daily especially if you have gears and do highway driving, im talking 3.23+ and up gears with a 3 speed it will be pretty damn loud!

bead blasting cost like $30 for a manifold, id just do that

haha listen to this man!, I say go all the way and use 0ga, least you know you got plenty!

what ever you do buy plush and press mould fit, some say mould and its only rough and actually dosent sit how its supposed to! I payed $170 for knox carpet for the xf and it was shit, I hate it, never sat properly! mould wasn't done properly

ive got a pic in my thread to off the amp panel I made

bud your sub box is supposed to be matched with your sub, not the box matched with the car. Figure out the required volume for your sub and work out your dimensions given that your going to have a max height on the sub box due to the shallow x-series boot!

I also use penrite full synthetics, I ran 10/40 in my 250xflow falcon with 300xxxkm and it was fine with oil pressures. 12.5 PSI hot engine idle at 550/600-rpm

yeah I went for high sensitivity speakers when I got my new ones, my infinities are are 95db, alpine are useless for that there all about 83db

id say a running electrical system is more around 13.6v crazy??? all my cars run around there, the xf drop to about 12.6v measured at the battery through the small 8awg, and ran at about 13.6 at the dash and engine

yeah you got plenty of adjustment on that, you just need to know what they do to get your sound, tell us how you go, what the sounds doing for you and what you want to happen to the sound for it to sound better

As Hendrix said will be fine, but my opinion is, Always by an amp with the same rms rating or slightly bigger. Youll find some brand you can over run there rms rating, like my Rockford fosgates which just kept going and going no distortion. If your just starting with audio you probably wont notice the difference when running the speakers at say 50rms or 80rms but you would notice the 120. At the moment my front speaker setup is Infinity 6.5" components with Tweeters, 90rms speakers and 90rms tweeters running through a 2ch amp which only produces 85rms And pretty much ive found the amps 'quality' to be shit over how much power it can provide my speakers, hell it can provide shits loads of power and there so god damn clear with amazing clarity, but! the db and crossover control is non adjustable and only has one or the other settings! So in the end quality over quantity! Fusion does not fall under quality btw, that's the 2ch amp im running, worst control on that amp! And definitely fiddle with settings, set all to zero on headunit, and then set the settings on the amp, and then if you want to reduce bass or increase treble on the fly use the headunit! Youll get it!, audio is easy!

yes worth the money huge increase in handling

Hey guys I have an xe dash in my xf and have non electric xe mirrors, are the wiring plugs for the mirrors on the dash already or do I have to add them?

dunno if youll get to that rpm band with a stroker kit, standard 351 you can for sure though, 750 holley might be a bit small for those revs too however depends on comp/cam etcc./.

I have all xf wiring, want to use separate looms for mirrors anyway, not the xf intertwined in the whole loom, ill have a look

Hey guys so what are the main differences? Like what do you need to run a solid or why would you even go solid?

Remove the gas is my idea haha, never known a single car to run well duel fuel, not au's not ba's, not xf's, not vy's, not vt's, cars weren't designed to run dual fuel, except a few that run okay that are factory fitted

Hey guys, every knows the problem with coil sprung falcons that the diff does not sit correctly and one wheel is in a different position compared to the other in correspondence to the arches. I was thinking it had something to do with the watts link. Would it be possible to make a adjustable set of arms to pull the diff back to centre?