mcfly94

handy little trick!

alright to give you an idea as to what they can handle dad spins his stock crank rod setup to 7500rpm, flat top pistons, runs 850quick flow carby, custom solid cam with 650lift, alloy chi 2v heads, high rise chi manifold, and thats at about 550hp at the flywheel.

only a small cam hendrixhc? what power you aiming for anyway? should make for an awesome cruiser!

im no guru on clevelands but if you only looking for 400hp fly, just use the standard 351 crank and rod combo, just get the refinished and arp bolts fitted to the rods, they do rev! as long as you have everything balanced.

yeah i thought so. I got the idea of getting it all running at the engine, but i reckon my c10 wont like it.

cool, yeah i got no idea, its the same for xe/xd/xf gauges though.

boxing mid woofers can be difficult in the front x-series doors, i reckon a good alternative would be lining the door with dynmat. yeah thats why i went rockford fosgate and infnity speakers.

you can do them at home, ah really, pedders is $25 per press. i dont know either, have to ask someone else here

agreeed! at least if something goes wrong you know how to fix it aswell!

yeah it is, yeah! its $100 at pedders to have them fitted, im thinking off paying them to do mine, as there are a cow!, and ive got to have my suspension reset, toe is out, camber is not too bad, pitman arm is not in the right spot, drag links bent. costing around $125 for a full setup. yes it could be!, um id check over the shaft and where it mounts

yeah, but i like i said crazy they dont really handle bass, so if you want type r's get a small sub, they are amazing quality on shallow mids and tops. Yeah they have, $700 headunit i have dosent even have internal sound processor!, and its like $500 for top processor.

you can't you'd have to take it somewhere and check drag link for bends by eye, yeah it will cost you around $150 that's what it cost me for upper balljoints and nolathane bushes

some of the photos are from slydogs build thread.

if you think its steering check pitman arm condition, drag link, idler arm, steering coupling, could be also be a stuffed worm drive in the steering box, and get your camber setup properly!

you need to use xd/xe temp sender, dry thread for earth, $12 from repco.

dont fit alpine speakrers, type j/g/r/s as they only sound good with a sub, they do not like to produce bass, and they are expensive. I can highly recommend infinity speakers, although these can be dear, i paid $250 brand new and that was almost half price. and rockford fosgates, (im running 60rms 6x9 3way rockfords paid $130 for the pair underneath 25mm plastic spacers on a solid 12mm custom shelf and they are awesome, perfect if you dont want a sub, they have a serious amount of bass for what they are, and i run them of a 4ch amp which can handle 2x100rms bridged. alpine make the best headunits IMO, im using the x305s which again was really dear but got that half price on sale. for amps, im using a 4ch alpine amp and a fusion amp, suprisingly the fusion amp is really good, my inifinty speakers were dummy fitted in my car, and hooked up, and these things are 90rms in 20hm and the fusion amp powers them perfectly! and that does 2x80rms into 4ohm. wiring use 8ga for everyamp, earth and power as long as its not a comp system.

yeah i was going to say, id say i could manage a decent 12psi setup on my bottom end? i think? or am i off?, as my cr is only around 8.97, with 22 dished pistons and the early open chamber head. basic setup say: full 3" exhaust $500 a couple straight throughs keep noise down LPG system (GRA B2 converter, impco vff30 lockoff (with boost referencing), 3/8" lines, 225 or 425 or GRA480, i reckon 425 on 4barrel) WB02 for tuning $300 Upgrade the ignition, and just use MS to control the ignition with tfi $600 600x300 cooler $300 Cam with good torque band that will work with turbo, valve springs $400 Upgrade piston rings to moly. Probably just a simple log manifold turbo setup with garret T04 0.84A/R turbine and 0.6A/R or 0.7A/R And ive already got e-series 28 3.27 diff and C4. I reckon i could get to around 200kw at the fly reliabliy and much easier than N/A. definitely kick the vy ecotec.

I mean I know what's involved for 300rwkw

yeah but isn't heaps of work involved with turbo? what's your setup going to be? of course I'd go straight lpg though

xf0747 recommended these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Falcon-XE-XF-Sedan-MONROE-GT-GAS-Rear-Shock-Absorbers-/281072630939?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41713bfc9b

just had a look at what shocks that were ordered (no wonder i have a bloody rough ride) ultima super low heavy duty firm ride!

just on this sly, should ever consider working the bottom end? whats the most rpm i can get out of it reliably (obvisouly only to limit of the cam)

Hey guys well i never installed the kickdown on my c10 and now id like to have the kickdown feature! i found this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON-MUSTANG-HOT-ROD-C4-KICKDOWN-CABLE-STAINLESS-PRO-SERIES-LOKAR-QUALITY-/350741521212?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a9d2e33c love the lokar dipstick that i installed so ill be more than pleased with this quality, just will it fit to my standard xflow carby and manifold, surely it could be modded? any thoughtss?

nah I'm listening, sounds straight forward! thanks for the help, much appreciated!

or even 550s?