mcfly94

2700 is not okay when ive only got to 1800rpm left, i dont take my xflow past 4.5k i was always going to keep the c4

because i dont want a sluggish car either, not to mention i dont think the difference between my eb2 3.27 and a 3.08 would be much difference

alright well it would have to ebII to el, im not getting a custom shaft made.

Yeah im leaning towards the manual conversion now. Id keep the 3.27 ratio. Wouldnt go any higher. As much as i hate manual at times its going to definitely bring down the revs a huge amount, a be much more quieter to cruise on the highway. Just put the C4 in the shed for later when i make this a weekend car. Just have to look into costs now, and whats the best t5 to use.

I hated my 2.77 diff so sluggish.

mmm im just tossing up all possiblities. Leaving it. Converting to T5 Driveline swap to 4.0 OHC and 4 Speed.

yeah im thinking the same, wish there was an auto with more gears for the crossflow, dont really want manual at all

yeah just dont go putting a high rise or carby spacer, it wont clear haha!

yeah will be pretty much same stack height as standard engine. this setup causes the air cleaner to be out the bonnet.

easy close with standard rise manifold and no spacer

why not? bonnet closing depends on the manifold you use, the cleaner and how big if you use a phenolic spacer?

been talking to a few guys and yep i have the same! thankgod least the engine can stay in!

Its time for a new rear main on my car. What type of seal did the 84da have. I bought ACL gasket and seal kits previously and have the main seals left over from them. The rope type and then the 2 piece rear main seal. Can i use 2 piece instead of one piece? And how is it changed?

slighlty thinner than yours and cut in half to make 2 semi circles, been having a look at my seal and a chat to a few guys, i think i actually have a one piece seal! i hope so anyway, because they can changed with the engine still in! I have an orange seal in mine and looks to be one piece

I just use penrite, ive heard ulx110 is supposed to be good.

is that one piece? i have a 2 piece seal kit from an acl kit

anyone?

yeah was fine after trying a different balancer, just missing the first the threads lucky no more damage was done!

Should i worried about my stripped threads on my crank? like i may turbo the engine to like 12psi at some stage, should i have the crank changed or can it be fixed?

i have actually stripped the first 3 threads on my crank thats in my block, all because a balancer didnt want to go on, one thing never force a bolt when tightening, try a different balancer or yeah get a real long bolt so you can get plenty of thread on the bolt

yeah thats what i did you also have to have the air con selection on hot or it wont blow hot air.

agreed there is so much room in them ghia and fairlane dashes! but i also doubt you would have a vac leak after the plug them hoses are real strong and hard to split! unless you scissors!

Yep, im running the zl/xf ghia heater box too. When i push the valve in it closes. No idea.

the heater tap is open without vacuum connnected, needs vacuum to close the tap, mines on all the time and have no vac lines connected, i have to cable tie the valve closed in summer to stop the coolant heating up my cabin! also weeps at the hose connection when i cable tie it shut because the pressure at that point, open it again and no leaks as the coolant just flows straight into the heater core and out again.,

nope, mine was more of question, because i dont understand the figures. I understand that. I want to gas my crossflow later maybe for turbo, whats the costs like in comparison to petrol, work out the same in the end?