mcfly94

Hey guys my front door mechs are dead, door locks are held up by central locking and yeah that's starting to not work now, also can hardly open door, have to push it in first and then open the handle. Hoping to refurbish them completely? Anyone done this?

Yeah ill move my earth, yeah mines about 6m and is 8awg. Does about 2/3 But it goes to crank then feels like flat battery then just gets crankning. Yeah it needs a tune, should get a good tune when that afr gets here!

where would I put another earth, I have earthed the boot, block and engine bay from battery.

man this thing is so cool!

Took longer than I should of to get the timing right! bloody 3 hours!, should of checked what stroke it was in the first place, got it in the end, and its at 28 degrees for now, makes more power, a lot different car, bit quicker. Think its putting static/feedback through my speakers, never used to be there, after install it is, anyone used them noise filters? thinking about using one for each of my amps. Also found it harder to starter my car, 575cca battery and au starter dosent cut it, it starts, but only just.

I mean lost advance because I cant turn the dizzy anymore. Yeah im going take it all out and try again tomorrow, still need to mark my balancer.

Well its rewired and all firing now!, had it running at 22 degrees but lost advance cause dizzy was hitting the block, will be all fixed tomorrow!, its amazing how it can run so far advanced from factory setting at idle!

oh really? this makes sense now!, cross fingers it works, im so lost. Also should the street fire cdi blink stay on as long as the ignition is on?

still that seems backwards, the dizzy needs to trigger the white wire so my cdi can trigger the coil. the pink/blue goes to the coil pretty sure its a negative wire, but I thought an ecu (when ran) trigged this cable (so if I use this cable the cdi would trigger the cable?)

Yeah ive just rewired the tfi harness green/yellow, red/blue are gone, brown still in there but will be covered up. Just with the cdi, should the led light stay on when ignition is on? mine dosent?

Never running. TFI module, using #1, #4 and #6 1 to White on CDI (brown on tfi) 4 to ignition from old dizzy (red/green on tfi) 6 to ground (orange/black on tfi) CDI battery wires connected, small orange to coil +m small black to coil - White to #1 on tfi module (brown) as stated above. small red to ignition from old dizzy. When I turn the ignition on should the led on the street fire stay light up? or blink and go out, mine goes out, and in the instructions that when 12v is applied to small red (ignition pickup), led will come on.

supercheap! it looks quality, and sticks well! wheel arch mould about $30 for 6m pretty sure they do colours

Hi guys, really trying to figure out why my car idles at 1200rpm in park/neutral yet only 650/700 in drive, only happened since c4 went in. Could it be vacuum line arrangement, because I cant seem to find any leaks. I know I shouldn't worry but I have had enough of the car jolting into reverse, its pretty harsh on the trans, and im about to have it rebuilt. What else can cause it?

yeah had few people say that, ill look into to it, not going 4bbl, only 2bbl using adapter plate, too expensive otherwise.

um you got an issue that should have a spring back action, just fitted a lokar kit to my 250-c4 setup, little tweaking needed to trans brackets and weber linkage but now works perfect!

And now the idle cut solenoid is playing up -__-, need to source some more from upullit, also still needs a tune, such a prick to tune!, thinking about setting up an afr, would this allow me to get my mixture good? aatm tuning by ear does not seem to work! nor with a vac gauge.

Nah not the converter mate, its all good rpm drop is only between 150-250 rpm now, my trans is getting old an tired however.

Yeah trans is need of a rebuild and don't know about the converter

Carby mate, still a bit to sort with my carb, idle cut solenoid is a bit iffy sometimes and the idle circuit play us, plan is to run a 465 holley on a 4 barrel soon, got to sort my ignition first.

Did a bit of fiddling with the idle speed and mixture. Timing set at 10 degrees at about 900rpm. Idling at about 900rpm in neutral and drops around to 650-675 in gear now. only around 200rpm drop which is much better. Checked brake booster line, and its A okay. Needs more fine tuning, thinking about setting up an Inno AFR.

Its worse when mine warms up cold morning isnt so bad

that's what I thought but what could it be?

Will do, already tried pcv valve, Ill give every single one ago tomorrow. Cross fingers I find something, I hope I find something wrong better than not knowing.

99% sure the skin is different

Does anyone know? cant seem to find it, are they h3's?