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Posts posted by ashXFute
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I've started having some minor issues with the cluster in my XF.
I've had it out previously to replace the odo gears and fixed that issue but now I've got some other seemingly electric issues cropping up.
1) The temp sensor climbs and jumps around. Or will just sit at half where it normally evens out.
2) occasionally the dash will lose all illumination and sensors. Found a quick tap on the front can bring it back.
3) dash loses all sensor display and then just shows clock. Last time came up with Er 2 code before showing clock again.
From research I suspect old/dry connections are most likely the issue. This will be a cluster out and investigate. I will also be attempting to clean and re-solder joins. If any one has any advice please comment to help out.
I will also take pictures and ad them in as a guide for the future
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Would you like a TI chip?
I ended up getting mine tuned with a different chip so I have a un used TI chip just sitting in the center console
Sent from my SM-N981B using Tapatalkfotz reacted to this -
Hey mate.HI, just wondering what they did for the wiring ? is it using the factory computer/ loom ? im not putting my 5.0l in a X series but something alot earlier, im planning to reuse the complete NL fairlane loom but have heard will need to defeat the smart lock crap ? i see yours is the earlier motor so might be different again ?
Thanks Warren
They used the EB engine harness and ECU and kept the XF dash wiring.
No smart lock but they did fit a new alarm demobiliser
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The v8 input shift is definitely longer.
I had both manual boxes sitting side by side at 1 point.
The v8 factory bellhousing was deeper, I'm assuming for a bigger clutch assembly.
Can't remember if there was much difference in shifter extension but the v8 box would have sat back a bit further just from that
Sent from my SM-N981B using TapatalkOutback Jack and deankxf reacted to this -
Hi yeah I have a windsor motor in my XF.
It's a 92 EB GT motor in a 86 XF s-pack.
I can measure some stuff if you need?
Sent from my SM-N981B using Tapatalkfotz and deankxf reacted to this -
Good news is someone has put a drain in which is handy.
Looks a little wet around it which isn't ideal though
Sent from my SM-N981B using TapatalkOutback Jack reacted to this -
So reckon 85W140 is the go then?In that case, the bearing noise might be from rust due to moisture buildup or the diff getting wet while being stored. I have a bad wheel bearing noise due to rain getting in to the bearing race as I was building it up outside.
You really have to make sure you get LSD oil. Normal 80W90 is not going to work. LSD oil is normally 85W140 unless it's synthetic.
The whirring noise when warm would just be the thinner oil not dampening everything like it does when it's cold and still as thick as honey.
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How much will I need?
I need to go to bigger town tomorrow to get windscreen replaced on my ranger so while I'm out I'll be able to swing by repco or similar
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I'm going to jack it up tonight and check if it is lsd first.
Then drop the oil and get fresh stuff.
Previous owner has told me he didn't touch the diff and before he got it it was in storage for years.
But it public holiday today in WA so can't get anything
Sent from my SM-N981B using TapatalkOutback Jack reacted to this -
Definitely not a chirp or scrub.Having a "locked" diff can cause the wheels to chirp/shudder when going round corners, as both wheels are trying to turn t the same speed. Or as Gerg said, it might be real tight.
Ford made a special additive that used to stop the shudder in LSD diffs, not sure if it's still around, it was like 50ml or something.
This is a clunk that shudders the whole car just about. Almost made me think it was steering before I listened a bit closer
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I'm unsure.Detroit Locker.??
Just got told it's LSD
Could be any brand
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The other factor about it is it only does it once its warmed up.
From cold it's fine.
No noise at all
Sent from my SM-N981B using TapatalkOutback Jack reacted to this -
I'm new to a driving a car with a 9 inch diff.
My XF has one fitted which is engineered and passed with all the other mods.
At low speeds when cornering I get a clunking sort of noise and bit of shake. Through the drive train which the missus freaked out over.
Driving straight its fine. Tiny bit of whine under load which goes when take foot off.
Unsure what it could be.
Diff is ford 9". Was told it had 3.55 ratio gears with tight LSD
Any help from the brains trust much appreciated
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The new one I got for my ute was off ebay for $119 I think.
All around the edge it has a soft felt underlining. It even came with viynl sleeves for the bars
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I picked up a mixed box of parts from someone's failed rebuild the other day.
Cost me $500 and included crow double valve springs, oversize vavles, new lifters, bearings, water pump and stock pistons.
Using a few more of the parts I have laying about in my shed or already on cars what can I make up?
I've got a 2 barrel and 4 barrel manifolds with 350 and 600 holley.
2 different diffs 3.45 or 3.55
2 T5 gearboxes
Msd 6al2 set up and running
No set idea on cam or anything I just want a good tough cruiser/weekender motor to go in my xf now it's no longer needed for daily duties.
Any other parts or work to the motor that would be a good idea at the same time?
I also need to pull down the current motor to see what internals I can reuse from it.
Any help or advise appreciated
Ash
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I can have a look at my XC when I get home from work
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CAI, cam and extractors are good place to start. Bigger throttle body, injectors and under drive pulleys are also popular.
I had a quad cam 5.4 xr8 ute with only intake, cams and exhaust done and that pushed 380rwhp
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There is a thread on here of a bloke who fitted one into a XE I think it was. Have a search
XF S-pac cluster trouble shooting
in Auto Electrics
Posted
Cheers@Seamus
And@deankxf ill take plenty of pictures taking it out and apart as a walk through.
Planning to upgrade the globes within the cluster for the backlight and warnings too
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