xdfairmont79

hey giys and maybe gals? iv got a problem. i ahve a mint glaze xd falcon ute, its a little rough and the paint is f**ked so i want to see the colour and match it to repaint the old girl during the resto. i cant google the colour and i cant even find a colour chart from ford or anything so im lost. iv never even seen another x series in this colour.. how rare is it? 

no joke i should have taken a photo, he had 15" wheels with a high tire profile but they were only just missing the ground haha it was stupid. i was looking at this car for sale too, we were thinking of buying it until we seen how stupid the guy was who owned it previously. who knows what else had been done to the poor thing.

That sounds like a bastard of a job to flip a leaf... I don't really get how I works anyway, are you trying to flatten the spring and make the hight of the diff a leaf higher? 3" blocks aren't to bad. Seen a guy the other day his xy had two 2" blocks on top of each other and then a 1" block on top of the already dodgy other two. I don't even know how it didn't somehow go wrong in the time he's owned it. He just had threaded rod bent with an oxy for u bolts. Crazy.

I have an x series pedal box I'd trade for an eb one, (apparently Ed is different..) that's if your interested. Otherwise could I do the pin on the side of these series auto pedal box?

Okay so I found 5 minutes - well actually I had to go in town to pick up my freshly machined block - so I took the pictures I promised.  As you can see an engine driven fan is not impossible.  Just follow the steps I outlined initially and you will be fine.  I really should make up a shroud one day.

 

 

 

 

 

This is the best pic I could get of the sump mod.  As you can see it is real tight.  I strongly recommend cutting the x-member for clearance.  If you are handy with a 5" grinder with a mic hair cut off wheel you could cut the offending section out, invert it and weld it back it.  Bet a roadworthy bloke would never pick it.  Suggestion only.

 

 

 

There is also the option of slotting the x-member holes a bit or even adding a piece onto it to lower it enough to give clearance. 

 

thanks ando, yea i know it would be easier but i just couldnt bring myself to do it! i want to go the easy way but i just cant sorry haha.

the sump mod doesnt look too complicated! it would be a pain but its not a massive screw around id say probably take me a week though..

If I get five minutes this week I'll go into the shed and take a photo of my sump on the woody for you to give you a guide. I'll also take a photo of the engine driven fan I promised the other day. Hopefully the machine shop will be finished my block on Tuesday so I will be in town anyway and can get the pics. If you have access to a TIG for the sump mods you will be miles ahead. Mig welds on sumps have to be spot on, otherwise they leak. I fill my sumps with water, then petrol and finally inox to get the last little pin holes out of them. All of the ones I have had tig welded have been spot on first time. Hmmm need to learn how to do that one day...

thanks man any help is greatly appreciated. 

Remember 188/221-onwards had 7- bearing crank, able to support more horsepower. Early shitty 4-bearing crank with a 2V head that supported 170 hp standard is a ticking time bomb. I'd do the mods and never look back.

true true.. ahh well ill go the modding sump route then because im not cutting the crossmemebr i dont care how hard it is im just ocd about that sort of stuff.. and yea ill go off of ando's recommendations about the other stuff

ok cool, i think ill do the sump stuff it is harder but.. my mind says dont cut the crossmember... i live in moranbah which is inland from mackay so its fing hot here too and i can see why it would need an engine driven fan.. is it possible to put a 2v head on a 170?

because that might be the easiest. hahah

pre-crossflow 250 into xm. 

 

1. Have to modify front x member for sump clearance.  Cut an inch out of it and weld in flat plate.

2. Lower front sway bar mount with 10mm aluminium spacer again for sump clearance.

3. Use XL engine mount lowers as these are easy to notch out to get the engine back far enough so that you can run an engine driven fan.

4. Use XM-XP top engine mounts but they will only pick up two of the three mounting holes in the block.

5. Ditch the idea of running a 2 speed fordomatic.  They suck.  C4 and buy x member from Castlemaine rod shop or mod XY x member. 

6. Slot x member mounts to allow gear box to go back as far as possible. 

7. Get a three core radiator cause they will over heat without one.  If you are not worried about originality cut the radiator support out and fit a

    bigger radiator - you will need it. 

8. buy a good starter blanket - you will kill starters without one.

9. As for cam - I just rang CROW and said I want a hydraulic cam with good lump at idle and good torque.  Can't remember the grind but it was spot on.

10.  Be ready to pull the engine and gearbox out 20 times, you will, trust me.

 

Um if I think of anything else i'll let you know.  Will dig through my squire photos to show my completed installation. 

thanks haha i dont think the crossmember should be a problem? why would it be different on a 170 to a 250? id rather change the sump than cut the crossmember probably... also i dont want to change the fordomatic because i like it belive it or not. not everyone has a two speed auto gearbox. i  might change it later but im on a ver tight budget. 

2v 221's are an awesome little engine, I'll game t ask my old man on the weekend but apparently there's are some fitment issues with the two speed auto and the 12 main bearing engine, from what ive been told XP had a spacer/adapter to fix the issue

hmm ok ill have to look into this.. sounds about right haha more hard to find expensive items :/

righto so iv got an old pre crossy out of an xt ute, its going to be done up for my xm and then it will be on the road.. i havent got very far with it yet haha its still in the xt ute but for the moment i would like to know the little tricky things about them i have to watch out for when im building it/ evaluating the block  the head is not a problem i have a 2v head i bought a few years ago already being rebuilt for my xy falcon 500 but i will use it on the xm instead as we have gone the original route with the xy. 

this is the ute the engine is coming out of. im not sure if it is a 200 221 or 250 maybe even smaller but its not the original engine and the guy we got it from had xb's and xc's lying everywhere so the chances its a 250 are high. i dont really care what ci it is tbh but a 250 would be good. 221 is my next best always loved that number hahahaha.. anyway so thats the plan. its going in front of a 2 speed fordomatic aswell. and for my xm which is bassically a beach cruiser type car it will be very throw back mexican blanket seats type epicness! also if you have any good xm parts or know where some are contact me. thanks  

Cam types would be good aswell cause i want it to be tourquey and loud hahaha.

yea it just runs through the manifold, windsors have a similar setup i think? stock ones that is.. well iv been told haha, ill have a look at the car it came off, its a fellow members old manifold, i just thought there mightve been a trick. also sly man, your crossy is badass i have to say im thinking of one day doing that to this one.. something different. lol

right, so iv got this redline manifold, and im putting a 500 holley on my xd but i cant seem to figure out what to do with the old heater through manifold lines.. its something to do with cold starts or something and can i just bassically block the pipe at its start? or? probably a rookie question but i just wanna make sure i do it right. the squeaky wheel gets the most oil haha.

yea well the gtho is a pig so i reccommend not going with phase two specs haha fuck it loves a belting though, but if you wanna go slow up to a set of lights.. it doesnt like cruising, not at all.. so i with my limited knowledge know that my xw ute gets 200hp at the treads its a completely stock 351 with a 750 double pumper.. stock manifolds.. big exhaust and it feels like a rocket and would light up the wheels at the drop of a hat. so if you go cam, high flow everything up bit.. should pull like a train oh and sound fucking beautiful.

yea ok, i thought it would be alloy, i forgot about cast iron hahaha

yea ok, i have a toppy as well, would that suit better? and the eb is a series 1 with a 3.9 which will eventually go but i want a manual haha i thought you would have to drill out the bell housing, but I'm wondering if i could weld up the original holes so theres no possibility of cracking and failing i guess ill just mock it up in its position and make a gearbox mount for it and then tailshaft wise will it fit? 

im trying to make a pretty tuff e series and i have a few single rails lying around.. is it at all possible to put a single rail in a eb falcon? iv always wondered because you can put an eb T5 in an xd but not vise versa?