FOMOCOHO

Shaft diameters:

XD 302 C10 (factory) = 70 mm dia.

351/C6 - 9" positrak = 89.5 mm dia. (entire length)

351/FMX - 2.77 8" (factory) = small (short) step = 76.8 mm dia.

                                                 large (long) step = 89.5 mm dia.

Ok, climbed under the ute a few minutes ago. Looks like the FMX has the same yoke as the C6 tailshaft above. This ute is all factory and has a stepped tailshaft to fatsville where as the C6 shaft is all fat. I'll look at the shafts and diameters shortly.

I'm not going to pull the ute tailshaft out until I'm ready to strip it down as it runs sweet and I can keep the diff and trans lubed every month or so.What I did do was compare the non-working length, which measures ~59 mm on both yokes I have as per photos below.

Showing step in tailshaft...

Non-working length on C6 yoke on bench reads ~59 mm...

Camparison with FMX yoke in ute, looks the same...

Here is a shot of the diff end on the factory XD 302C C10 tailshaft compared with the HD C6 tailshaft showing different diameters...

(I'm not sure if anything is factory on the HD shaft as no ZJ had 9" rear from factory!)

I'll crawl under the ute tomorrow and see what length the FMX yoke is since it's on blocks.

can someone tell me the correct length yoke to go on the tailshaft,i no its a 31 spline but there seems to be a few different ones,like does someone have an old 351 tailshaft out of an LTD or fairlane lying around ? thanks.

This HD tailshaft goes from C6 to 9"diff in LWB situ (ZJ&K/FC&D/ute/stn wagon). Not sure if these are the dims you want. Maybe I need to take a further measurement from the centre of the uni to the end?

First shot shows 31spline C6/FMX yoke in comparison to C4/C10 yoke in background (from an XD Fghia 302C C10)

Showing 31 spline...

working length reads 52 mm...

Total shaft legth before radius reads ~110 mm...

Outer Diameter reads 42.8 mm...

Overhead shot...

Let me know if you need more... hope that helps!

Fuel starvation

It could also be the fuel filter. Probably find it about half way along on the passenger side behind the sill. Locate, remove & replace.

Option B - if you can't find the leak, remove engine & replace with clevo. 

Vacuum leak - Option A

Not sure on the details of XF vacuum lines but check for leaks in all. At that age vacuum hoses could be cracked or plastic joiners failing. If there is a leak it can really affect the idle & running of a crossy sometimes. 

can someone tell me the correct length yoke to go on the tailshaft,i no its a 31 spline but there seems to be a few different ones,like does someone have an old 351 tailshaft out of an LTD or fairlane lying around ? thanks.

I have a HD tailshaft from a LWB 351 C6 setup laying under my ute. C6 has same output shaft as FMX so I will take a photo and measure up & post shortly.

Here is my FG Mk1.

Well... I may be able to assist.

Seeing as the SD card I have here is for a MkI it's totally useless to me except to get a refund.

 

Have a look above the passenger side kick panel of your FG and see if you can see a silver box with a SD card in it.

Something like this I believe

 

Will do... tomorrow.

I am following this with interest as my MkI needs an upgrade.

When I changed the stereo in my '82 XE Fairmont Ghia I didn't want to cut or chop anything as it is an original JG32 car with factory manual, which are hard to find these days.

Even though this was done along time ago, I had the foresight to understand it may be more valuable as original, the door cards were really good with no holes and the original Pioneer radio/tape-deck was also in good condition.

So I sourced pioneer 4" speakers that were chunky enough to handle the new deck output but fit in the front speaker slots. I also found a set of grills that already had broken slats from my old XD and cut & fitted the speakers and kept the original grills and speakers in a box for safe keeping.

No damage done. They were beefy top of the line 4" 2-way but will be the weak link so had to be replaced once. The second set should last longer since I appreciate my hearing now. 

The rears sourced were 6" Pioneer 3-way, again as beefy as I could get that would just bolt into the original headrests, no cut & shut.

Hence my doors and door cards have no holes at all.

Bit of a shampoo and they should look like new.

Next was the deck. Back when I did this the car was a daily and top-of-the-line pioneer still had a tape-deck... and they were so chunky you didn't need a power amp. Thing weighs a ton! It was back in  the QR days before the removable front thing which was so impractical since it weighed a ton. Also has 6-stack in boot so had all bases covered. Just no bluetooth back then. But it still looks period enough with the car and can play cassettes!

So I sourced another escutcheon from the wreckers and modified that & spot welded the cage in. The front panel was available new from Fords at the time. The old deck was removed and put in a box for safe-keeping.

New deck fitted...

Cradle without deck...

As far as cassette decks go this one is the most advanced, even searches a tape but that will wear the heads, so best to just FF>>.

Radio has superfringe too & BSM for country/interstate travel. It just goes off for a radio tape/deck era machine & has full remote & CD stacker for more modern stuff.

All the wiring was done with XE Ford connectors with easy access. The whole escutcheon can be removed in a couple of minutes with no swearing or cursing. It would not take long to unplug & remove this one & replace the original, that was the idea maybe for car shows or whatever.

The original Pioneer stereo in storage...

So there you go dAVE, no originality upset and reversal in extra quick time! 

I'm still using kero I got from the pump at a Shell Servo. $1.18 per Litre. Bring your own drum. Remember those days!...

I just took lots of drums, thankfully. 

Now you can only buy it in a gold plated tin. Maybe solid gold, not sure but everything is expensive at a servo now thanks to the gready little... i'll just stop there. 

Use an oil based degreaser, such as kerosene, 'neat-cut' if you can get it (low fumes), & use an extraction fan if possible.

 

I never use water based degreaser on engine/driveline components.

Sorry, that should read 'narrow-cut'...

http://www.motonational.com.au/lubes-maintenance/kerosene/shell-narrow-cut-kerosene-detail

Use an oil based degreaser, such as kerosene, 'neat-cut' if you can get it (low fumes), & use an extraction fan if possible.

I never use water based degreaser on engine/driveline components.

Not sure if an 8 would be the same as a 6 anyway. I assume your new one is a 6. Where's the photos?

Mine's got about 2 Ton of parts in the tray, lol... (which is why she's on blocks) so not much help sorry. 

Can you tell anything from underneath or do you have to remove the top cover?

thats a disc brake one, not sure if XDs etc ever came with disc rear in a ute.

My factory XD 351 ute has 2.77 LSD with disc brakes from factory. 

Got a nasty surprise when I took one of the heads off... Fuck.

 

 

And remember, push the piston all the way down first, clean as much muck out as you can & do the lip before then pushing the piston up & out.

Looks like a 302 if thats the stroke there in the pic.

After ringing the guy, you may as well strip it down anyway and see what else is good, bad or ugly.

Good practice too. Take your crank out, then pistons out with lots of CRC and some emery on the lip, then revisit the bores.

Like greg says, it may look better with a clean up. 

Yeah pitted real bad. That photo was after I soaked up all the water sitting there with a rag.

 

Guess my definition of "in a shed" differs a lot to the blokes, since from the amount of water in there it was obviously outside not covered up. Tempted to go drop it back off on his lawn.

 

Should have gone with my first instinct when I took off the rocker cover but I'd been looking for ages, was a long drive out there which I had to organise a mate's ute so I said f*ck it, just wanted an engine to get started on. 

BUT... Trap for young players just there! Should have had a plan B... I can't see or hear it running, can't see inside it, don't know how long or where it's been sitting... might work away from it... bit of an inconvenience but i've still got the money... a better one will come up!!! Plenty fish...

Go dump it in his front yard.

Don't do this or he may re-advertise it and make more $$$ and dull the enthusiasm of someone else.

Probably missed it but how much did you pay for it?

Good question Jimmy! Enjoyin' that XR8 today were ya?! Engine was advertised for $650, see ebay thread.

Too much apparently.

I hope you at least negotiated a better price otherwise I think you obviously don't work hard enough for your doe and are not savvy enough on the market-place for potential boat anchors. Sorry Nath, sometimes the truth hurts and you just have to take it with both barrels. No point sugar-coating it! It's not good to see a fellow enthusiast learn these pitfalls the hard way.

Remember, there are real enthusiasts who will help you to keep enthused and then there are assholes.

TBH i would be contacting the guy and seeing what he says. Worst he can do is tell you to piss off.

I agree, no harm in trying to recoup some of your doe if the guy has a conscience. Otherwise note your dissatisfaction with gumtree.

First step is to remove the sump and check out what you got... what size bearings 010,020,030 ?... and what your ground surfaces are like ???

Also whether it is a 302 or 351 already!

Doesn't take you long to write an essay does it.  

I've got this uni assignment, 1800 words on operations and project management, can I PM it your way??? 

I ate rice rice & went for the Lincoln ! 

HEI is a electronic,like I need a Bosch HEI coil ring a bell ?

 

TFI uses a Halls Effects DC pickup passing by a reluctor to activate signal passing by a magnet.The HEI in much the same way has a star shaped wheel which offers a much smaller pickup area to trigger the sensor and pass on the signal. The issue with the HEI is the signal starts building before the 2 meet to it's highest value then it tappers off on the back side,plus the HEI wheel is inherently unstable @ higher RPM and suffers form spark scatter terribly. A hall effects sensor like on a TFI or EST dizzy give a fat sine wave on off signal in much more uniform manner which supplies a cleaner logic (5volt) signal.

 

TFI EST both the same dizzy basically and computer controlled where HEI is vac advance electronic as found in earlier xflows. 

 

Q would be able to explain it better I'm sure. 

Q = w/s manual