FOMOCOHO

yeah all day we can talk about this but who cares as long as it is a good core to start with,here is the one i am rebuilding today and she is a 7H27

It's a bit like matching numbers block blah blah too.

If you run a York compressor, you can't read the engine-number anyway.

I think i'd rather get in a non-matching numbers car with A/C if it's sat all day in the sun at a car show than a matching numbers car with no A/C. 

yeah all day we can talk about this but who cares as long as it is a good core to start with,here is the one i am rebuilding today and she is a 7H27

Too true!

Oz blocks are higher nickel content so machining requires lower cutting speed (or insert tips)... other than that it's only the dizzy bore that matters besides the bores. 

Edit: ...and the original camshaft concentricity and how many times it's been machined previously...........

only xd and xe had the GF all the older blocks have CF on them from the u.s. tooling made here,here is my 77 block

Just checked a couple of ZJ blocks I have stripped down (both from JH63... cars, Eagle-farm QLD). Neither is marked 'GF'. One is marked 'CF', like your '77 block (cast 8th March 1979) the other has no 'C/G' marking whatsoever (cast 5th October 1978)! Both are E-dizzy, as all XD stuff. Both have the Brass restrictor insert.

Oz-cast blocks are supposed to be marked 'GF' and have the restrictor cast-in according to literature. This is wrong I think.

Edit: All C-blocks post 1972-73 are cast here... starting 1975.

you can use any early dizzy be points or electronic ,MSD,ICE,MALLORY,plus the ebay bosch copys are ok for a std engine,XC had an electronic dizzy in the later model range and are quite rare to find these days,the best one on the market is the ICE dizzy as you can use them on any cleveland block late or early,but at around $1100 for a kit might be a bit steep for punters.

I think the XC with the blue-oval-badge post the F-O-R-D lettering on the bonnet were E-dizzy. 1978 somewhere.

Yeah, he (Mark) is using a later E-dizzy in the 302. $100 Vs $1100... think sourcing an old Bosch points dizzy would more likely suit his budget! 

Cheers Chestnut... so he is reading it right! All pre 1975 blocks are US stock and should be 'CP'.

Will most likely need a points dizzy. Is your 'CF' block points???

Hey fella's

 

I just picked up a 351c for my XD. half an engine minus the heads for $500 bucks.

 

Its a Cleveland cast Block with "CF" and D2AE-CA (Cobra Jet block from what i found)

 

The casting date is 7H24. I cant seem to find anything on here or the net to find out what exact date that the block was cast (unless im not looking hard enough LOL)

 

Anyhelp will be greatly appeciated

Pay no attention to the CJ notation, you are reading an American source.

'CF' should be 'GF'... have a closer look? Also Mark, if you can post a photo looking down the thermostat housing with thermostat removed if it isn't already. Does it have the Brass insert or is the restrictor plate cast in the block???

What are the distributor bore dims??? Better measure it. I notice you're running the electronic dizzy in the 302 you have now. This new block is most likely a 'blue' block, if so will require points dizzy.

From memory, which is always fuzzy, first number is year.  So, 1977. Then month, day, 

1977 correct...was poured on 24th August 1977. We only know that though because Mark's given us more info than the date stamp. Could have been 1967 but the 'D' in D2AE tell's us it is 1970's. 

Pay no attention to the rest of the D2AE... as they were all cast with this number here except the XE (experimental) blocks commissioned for NASCAR (3 runs total) of which the worst 300 from the 3rd run came back for refund in early 1982. They also found their way into Oz built cars with only two bolts in the caps. Wall thickness on most of them was down to 1/8" so no big deal anyway just beefier bottom end but weighed more than D2AE.   

I thought the letters started at A for February?

Or maybe that was just for USA castings?

Haha, you're wrong Dave... A to M without I (because it looks like 1... and J).

It ain't rocket science... which is just a big kerosene shower-head anyway (but that's another story!). 

Empty tomato/soup/whateva tin... upside down (ie open side against seal). Whichever you can find that sits in the middle of the seal. I think the 'champignon mushroom' tins are good (with or without butter sauce, doesn't matter! ) as they're only half height (so stronger). You'll need a new tin for each seal though as they will crush some.

+1 hammer & dolly. You can't just whack it from one side though. I like to get a decent thump-o-meter on the opposite side to where you're hitting so there's some inertia to hit against, otherwise the whole lot just bounces. If you must apply heat, don't go any more than a couple of hundred degrees otherwise you'll weaken the high strength metals.<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what i was trying to say gerg... 2 hammers be better than one, you 'ol fitter you! 

There's an old fitter's trick with tapers. It works on tie-rod ends every time I find. Don't need a bigger hammer, just need two hammers (engineer's 2 pound is fine). I'm not sure if you can get to opposite sides on the upper ball joint from memory but if you can shock it at the same time with a blow from each side... this should expand the cast housing momentarily and break the seal. Then use your usual tools/method & it should come out.

^{Power steer box on my XD ute is by far a much better turning circle than the manual steer sedan I had.}

^{First thing I noticed about XH was that rack & pinion power steer was worse turning circle than the XD box... but it may depend on which box you have, 20:1 or 16:1.}

Having an issue trying to get a hold of a 75mm MAF for an EB-EL windsor, does anyone have any idea where i can get a hold of one?

I quoted the part number off my hot wire sensor to the local parts shop but what came in was a replacement stock unit which i believe to be 55mm. The ID of the ends of the unit was 65mm but the ID in the middle of it appeared to be about 55mm.

Seen a few EB-EL Windsor MAF at the wreckers... dunno what dia though.

Yes, i get genuinely depressed when i think about our beloved falcon being done and dusted

Stop please. I do not want these feels.

What shits me about it is that what we drove is/was different to everywhere else in  the world. We had our own identity. You knew you were in Oz.

What's the point of travel if everywhere is the same...McDickheads on every corner and Kia's & Hyundia's in all the parks. 

OK blown and injected ranger ute !

Think I'd rather have the Raptor... like the yellow one Clarkson tried to break in the snow... but couldn't.

I know the one you're thinking of... where the top panel gets cut off completely right?

SXE did some repairs on the "reaper" ...

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/5030-xe-the-reaper/page-2

Reckon you need to check your prescription mate, Definitley 24mm on the falcon badge.

Didn't think it was really that critical but since you want to dispute I remeasured...

FALCON measures 23.15 x 211.9 mm

5.8 measures 33.8 x 118.35 mm

Beauty about a dial is I don't need good eyesight....

It's cold up here... as i'm sure it is out your way SXE357 !

Went out to the shed to check...

FALCON measures 23 x 212 mm

5.8 measures 34 x 118 mm

...on mine, which are genuine.

Example from Vic spotto'd thread... XD S-pak

Im still a little curious because if the wheels i have aren't the 14×6 alloy road wheels that ford offered on xe falcons as an option then what do the "real ones"look like? Has anybody ever seen one or have a pic?

Refer sales brochure for photo of factory option 20-spoke Volante alloy-road-wheel, as below.

I have a leak at the flange fitting at the front of the 750 vac,rear is ok,i have tried normal thread tape,and also a white paste sealer,nope that didnt work,is there a correct tape used for gasoline as i am finding the white tape getting eaten by the fuel.

Any of these should do it but yellow one has chlorine resistance too.

York compressors don't like sitting unused for long periods of time. Leaking at the head gasket seal is common as it dries out.

Good luck with it though... there may be better sealing kits for them now.

Castrol TQF in mine, (same as M2C33 spec)........ yep 10 litres.!!

Yep, I use Castrol TQF in the old stuff, not to be confused with TQ95 which is NOT recommended for M2C33 applications.

ok cheer's i defitatly turned it a few more times but only locked in twice,so ? yep it still has a bit of oil from the draining,for these older gearboxes is there a correct fluid to put in them instead of any auto fluid.

Correct fluid specification type is M2C33F. Capacity is 10.5 Litres.