hellenikboy

Hey guys, So I have been searching the forums to try and find a wiring diagram to make the most out of my el thermofan install for my 351 XE. There were a few useful diagrams that I found but very few made use of the two fan speeds on the thermofans and an automatic turn on when the AC is on. I also wanted to use a thermofan switch because it looks cleaner than having the rod in the upper radiator hose. So I decided to draw up my own diagram, I spent a bit of time drawing it and I think it will work but if anybody who knows a bit about auto electrics can check it to make sure its all good to go. I plan on writing a DIY "how to" on the forum using this diagram when I have finished the install. Thanks

Yea fair enough. The car is just a weekend street car. Just want to feel more solid when handling like what Campo says on the road by replacing all the bushes. I already had some of bushes replaced with polyurethane when I had got a roadworthy 4 years ago when I bought it.. So maybe I should just replace everything with rubber then or do a combination? Thats what I am unsure of.

Hey guys, I was going to open up a new thread but found this instead. I know its old but didn't want to ask the same question twice. So just summarising from what I read out of this thread and to quote Nath-25 Anything that moves left and right, nolathane. Anything that goes up and down, rubber. Now I am looking at doing all the bushes on my xe 351 rebuild and I am looking at getting the following: Front Radius/Strut Rod (Polyurethane) Sway bar mounts (Polyurethane) Sway bar link (Polyurethane) Lower Control arm (Rubber) Upper control arm (Rubber) Rear Upper and lower Trailing arm front and rear (Rubber) Sway bar mount (Polyurethane) Sway bar link (Polyurethane) Watts link pivot and side rods (Polyurethane) Am I on the right track for a comfortable setup. I don't want to install everything polyurethane and have a really uncomfortable ride. Thanks for everyones help!

Thanks for that. I will give that a shot instead of my diagram. How would you get an AC signal that turns off when the car is moving?

I think you have the EF thermofan which are slightly different. Any benefits from running it on low speed normally and high speed only for AC?

Thanks guys. I will just run the simpler circuit with 1fan speed.

Is it worth me having two speeds? And what is an ideal temp to turn on the fans?

Yea it is a bit complicated. I wanted to take advantage of low and high speed plus I have AC so the fan needs to come on when that is running. I could make it simpler by only having high speed. That would remove two relays out of the circuit.

Hey guys, Got a few questions regarding the vacumn hoses coming out of the dash to the old 250. When I chuck in the 351 I want to make sure that all my heating and a/c is working correct. I have one set of vacumn hose from inside the car that connect to this red tree in the picture and I have another vacumn hose that connects to this solenoid. Does anyone know what should I do with these when the 351 goes in? Plus where does everyone connect their carbon canister on the 351? Is it worth connecting straight into the carby? or just removing completely. The car is the Victorian car, Auto with A/C from factory if that makes a difference. Thanks Anthony

Thanks. I will have to have a play around when the engine is in.

Would blocking them off effect anything in the dash though?

Hey guys So i have an xf fairmont ghia on dual fuel. Today got stuck out on the road to what looks like my fuel pump relay broke. It still clicks but doesn't send any power to the fuel pump. This is the second time I've replaced this relay in two years and last time i had to go to the wreckers, anybody know if I can just go to repco and get a narva relay instead that's brand new instead of second hand. thanks

I saw that one before but was hoping to see if i can cross reference it to another brand like narva so that it can be easier to get next time.

I forgot all about ordering it in. I had a sus today and it will be like 100 bucks to order a bosch starter motor and 80 bucks for an oex one both are for a ba

Hey guys, Got stuck in a carpark today. I parked and tried turn the car back on and the starter motor would not turn over. I gave it a bit of bang and tried wiring the starter directly from the battery and still nothing. Just wondering is there anything else i can try before I can confirm my starter is dead? And when buying a new starter should i just go for an AU starter. I've heard they are more powerful and smaller in size. Thanks

Thanka guys. I was just going to go to repco cause i work there and i get trade price. But if you guys reckon they are shit then ill reconsider. The brand we have is oex so not sure if they are made in china or not

Yea its an upright one. I have extractors and its right next to the solenoid. So I should just go get a ba/bf starter from repco.

I have an 87 xf with efi. Would that do?

Hey guys. Was just putting my venetians in and realised they are hitting the headrests. Im going to cut them so i just wanna see what the ghia venetians actually look like and where they are cut out. Anybody have a photo of them?

Thanka. I will try and get it done in the next week upload my measurements

Thanks not sure if i should take the whole bottom fin off.

Yea your 100% right. On mine the dimmer one was brown, negative was black and cant remember what the other colours were but mine had a different plug so may be different to yours.

I installed one in mine a couple of weeks ago but when i got the clock i made sure i had both plugs. And I just wired the plug to whatever free constant, accessories, negative and illumination wires I had in the dash loom already that wasn't connected to anything. Do you know which wire do what on the clock itself?

I have the same problem. did you find a solution?

Hey guys. Anyone in Melbourne know of good but reasonably priced place to get my snowflakes polished? I live in south eastern melbourne btw. Thanks