351XD_Fairmont

That's a good point about the difference being only marginal xhadyboy but any change would be great. Dave I'd be interested in atleast one depending on how much freight would cost, I'd love to see how much it would cost for all eight pieces I'd probably have a heart attack

Sounds like a great idea Dave, how much would they be looking at for them? Obviously the more they make the cheaper it'll be but have any numbers been said?

Did you buy it online or in store, have a link or part number mate? It's hard to find people that stock parts for anything older then afew years now

Do they sell these as a whole kit or did you buy them individually?

If it was freshly rebuilt then why tear it down, you could of just swapped out the cam and lifters or was there something wrong with it? Not having a go at you just checking what the reasoning behind it was

Hey guys I recently sent my x-celerator intake to a mate to be sand blasted and he blasted the machined surfaces, I had taped them up but he somehow mistakenly removed the tape and blasted it although inside was untouched, so my question is whether there is a way I can smooth out these surfaces myself or if I need to at all?

I'm pretty sure I've got some somewhere but I'll get some more to be sure, was told it comes in an aerosol can now too

Yeah I've cleaned it multiple times to make certain every last particle has been washed out of it just wasn't sure on the mating surfaces but if its all good then I'll leave them like they are. I'll probably chuck it in mums dishwasher when she's not looking just to make sure everythings completely clean

That carby looks like a nice compact unit, seems much smaller physically than my Holley, could be the camera angles though

Has he welded up some coolant passages in that photo? What's the reasoning behind this, not needed or better flow like this?

I'd start with the injectors then as mine was running a bit rough before I did them, check the intake track and exhaust system aswell

Do you know when it last had the fuel filter and/or injector filters done? Could be some are blocked up

That's a great looking spring compressor, much better than those pain in the arse g-clamp style ones

Can't really help with any of this but just need to say it sounds like an awesome build and would be great to keep it manual 4x4. I've always wanted a bronco or swb f100 4x4 to drop a turbo barra into, make sure you start a build thread if you end up doing it mate

Normal thread mate, if your using 12 point sockets your gonna have a bad time trying to get any nuts or bolts off of these old things. Get yourself an impact socket set if you haven't already got one(even a cheap one will work), they just seem to grip like a vice, I haven't had one break or round anything off but have snapped one or two bolts

Were you using a hex head socket or 12 point? I always use an impact socket on a long breaker bar as I find that normal sockets always round off head bolts or just snap in half

There's a whole thread on here somewhere all about crossflows with alot of knowledge in it from Ando, slydog and others, can't remember the name of it but you should be able to find it by searching

Haven't tried them yet but have heard good things about the ebc greens, anyone here tried them?

I usually replace original with slotted and dimpled rotors, either DBA or RDA brands. After reports of drilled rotors cracking like you've mentioned one or both of these companies stopped manufacturing them and only drill little dimples into them(hence the name) thus eliminating the cracking problems while maintaining most of the cooling properties. They've worked great ever since I first started using them on the cars I've owned

Didn't touch the locking tabs just cut/filed down the locating tabs that slot in the two holes so the cap can't be spun around, just took enough off so the cap would insert far enough for the locking tabs to flick out inside the housing to lock the cap down but not too much that it would be loose and able to spin

I've had two trident locking ones(different style to the one linked), they sell them at supercheap, the locating tabs on the sides of the body are too long which causes them to bottom out before the locking tabs can fold out and therefore need to be cut/filed down, that's what I did to both of mine and fitment is now perfect

The sensor screws into the end of the extractors before the flange, and yes you'll need a cat otherwise you'll have a big gap between the exhaust and the extractors as all off the shelf systems are designed with them in mind

Maybe they use them in their generators Dave, wasn't it you who found they were using barra's for generators? There was a link to a website on here somewhere where they were advertising them as such, was pretty interesting but no idea where the link is

I had a look at some aftermarket ones and comp height was 30.9mm or 1.217" but you would probably be better off waiting Thom to chime in with his expertise mate

Take the dizzy cap off and have someone crank it over to see if the dizzy is spinning with the engine turning, if it's not you'll have to replace the oil pump shaft as the gears have been eaten away. Common problem when they've had an aftermarket dizzy fitted as they use a hardened gear as opposed to a factory one