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I think the AU sump is the same as a BA/ BF one but FG is different. Like Thom has said the XG sway bar will still hit the AU/ BA sump and on EA- EL falcons, the AU sump will hit the K frame. 3 ways to get around this, modify the sump ( like the pics below), make spacers like Thom said or In my opinion the best option is to get a custom sway bar made to clear. With the custom sway it means you can run a 27 mm bar, as with an XG sway bar the biggest is 24mm (xr6) and standard one is 22mm. The setup will look neat and professional Pics of modified sump And this is a pic of a custom sway bar made to clear a BA sump on a XE falcon. Note the sway bar is 20mm more forward compared to a XG sway bar

4 speed autos on ea- au are good and T5s are good as well, what is the problem?

Awesome stuff mate cheers, you should make a thread on your project! Also Can you also use the Xf body mounts and Ea engine mounts setup for a SOHC motor as well?

My question is do you use standard XF crossflow chassis mounts or the XG ones with upper ea mounts to fit the ba motor, if that makes any sense?

This is true , forgot about that so how would you overcome this?, just use an adapter or just whack the xg powersteering box in? Also don't XGs P/S boxes have a metric pitman arm as well?

Well here is a couple of teaser pics. Many, many hours spent on the wheels wet sanding, paint stripping,polishing and the wheels have come out awesome. Still need to get a new set of tyres and bob's your uncle. Unfortunately due to the stupid offset of the rear wheels, it means i won't be able to run any tyres over 235s without rolling the guard. The tyres that came with wheels were 225s for the 15 by 8 rims and there is already not much room between the tyres and guard lip so fingers crossed the 235s fit. The front wheels came with 205 tyres in which I'm stepping up to 215s. So simply going up one size on tyres.

Hi all, I am thinking about getting some new rims from the XC. They are 15 by 7 globes for the front and 15 by 8 for the rear. Now for tyres: Front tyres i am thinking of getting BF Goodrich T/A 225/60/R15 Rear tyres i am thinking of getting BF Goodrich T/A 275/60/R15 ( not sure if going to fit and is it too big for a 8 inch wide rim) Second option for the rear is BF Goodrich T/A 255/60/R15 Would love any thoughts and ideas Cheers.

Now next year i will be doing the 4.0L conversion to my xc falcon and literately can't wait but i do have a few question and ideas on it. Engine: I'm going to run a AU ohc non VCT motor (was going to run an el motor but au is just soo much better) Gearbox: My xc currently runs a 4 speed single rail with a hydraulic clutch and i would really love to retain the Hydraulic clutch, just don't like cable clutchs. This also allows me to keep the current pedal box in and leave all the Hydraulic lines in place. Now my question is can i use a BA T5 bell housing (have been told same as AU but uses Hydraulic instead of cable) and use Ba bell housing hydraulic setup connected to the XC hydraulic lines if that makes any sense ? haha. Now i know that i can't use an AU or BA T5 as the gear shift position seats further back, but would it work if i used a BA T5 Hydyalic bell housing with an EL T5 gearbox ? Diff: I am going to run a 3:45 slippery but unsure which diff housing to use so that the handbrake isn't too much stuffing around to get working. My idea would be that a EL wagon diff would be the easier one as it runs a separated handbrake from the caliper :and only runs one handbrake line on the drivers side floor pan. Any help on this one would be great Other queries: Accelerator pedal and cable: How would i go about the Accelerator pedal and cable setup, currently has stock 6cylinder setup, same as a XD. Electric Fuel pump and lines: ? A/C setup: It is a must for me to keep the A/c so what would be the best setup in terms of condenser and engine bay a/c lines?. My ideas are to use a complete XG setup and get the TX valve connection modified to fit the XC TX Valve. Thanks, Giovanni

No offense intended and i do agree with what you are saying but how many XC falcons do you see on the roads these days? Even when you go into most auto parts shops like repco they look at you funny when you want something for a XC and they don't even know what a XF is let alone a XC.

I'm not against getting it engineered and what not but this will mean i will have to put a Mod plate on the engine bay. In doing this won't it attract more attention because as far as i'm aware driving a modified car is an offense in its self on p plates. This is straight from Vic roads website under probationary prohibited vehicle " an engine that has been modified to increase the vehicle's performance (other than a modification made by the manufacturer in the course of the manufacture of the vehicle" So in getting the car engineered i won't be achieving much at all. I honestly hate the rules they make no logical sense the fact that you can drive a fg xr6 with 195kw but you can't drive a 5.0L V8 NL fairlane, that can't even outrun a honda jazz, why couldn't they just stick to power to weight! I guess i will be taking a risk then, but if do what I said above and be polite and not a smart ass when/ if i do get pulled over i should be fine.

I think a turbo setup is just asking for trouble , plus i'm not made of money and can't afford a barra conversion. I going to try and make it look all factory and run the factory Au airbox, plain grey rocker cover and with a quiet exhaust, so i shouldn't have any trouble with the cops. As long as you don't drive like a dickhead, have a noisy exhaust, run bold tyres and have the car soo low that it is pretty much scraping the guards i should be ok. Most cops won't even notice the difference with a ohc 6 in the XC engine bay.

Cheers, will keep that in mind, i heard of people making brackets on the bell housing for a slave cylinders on ELs

Thanks for the help mate, ideally i would love to fit a barra turbo but since i'm currently on my Ls and will be turning 18 next year and then on to my Ps won't be able to drive it. Keep also in mind the car is a daily drive and i'm still going to run it on LPG. I think from a stock gutless crossflow on duel fuel, 4 speed and a 2:92 diff the Au OHC 6 , t5 and 3:45 should get the wheel moving ok haha. I like the idea of the hybrid EL block 1998 as that way i can find a late model manual EL and use all the block and gearbox out of it. Why the use the XH drop down manifold, XH belt and idler setup? I thought that BBM manifold was much better?

Yeah really don't want to roll the guards, i hope 265/ 50 fit with no issues. The car is going to look so tuff with a fat rear end, so over the cheese cutters! Wish XC sedan tubs were like ZHs and coupes, you can fit 295 on those beasts no problem!

Beaut, got my eye on a set of maxxis, cheers for the help mate!

I know 50s are the go but can't find them any where, Ideally i would love 265/50 R15 but finding them is another story.

One thing to keep in mind is that if there is bubbles it means the rust has gone through and is a hole. I hate when people say yeah the car has very little rust just a few bubbles here and there.

You need to drill holes in the doors and pillars and location of where to drill is marked on the door and pillars, if you want the power windows to actually work well run a relay for each power window.

I would just use factory arms. I have to disgree on nolathane castor arm bushes as they are far better than the rubbber ones, something not right with yours??? As for roller bearing saddles you can get them shipped from the US I got mine from here ---> http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/ Also in regards to the bumps stops even though the upper control arms aren't resting on them you still need a decent amount of travel between them. Stock Rear sway bars on XCs are 18mm. Roller bearing top for steering box, price has gone up used to be $90 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-STEERING-BOX-LID-FORD-XA-XG-F-SERIES-HOLDEN-HQ-WB-6-V8-KIRBY-BISHOP-/290938507978?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd4952ca

Mcfly94 because your car has coil springs and watts linkage (assuming you are talking about a XF sedan) you can go bigger on the sway bar than on a rear leaf spring car and 24mm should work good in your case. Another good mod for the rear suspension for your car is to fit an AU diff hat with lowers the watts linkage pivot point.

I recommend Nolathene on the lower control arms , sway bar bushes , caster rods and idler arm. Don't bother putting nolathene on the upper control arms and the rest as it will do is make the ride harsher. Raising the suspension from the bumps stops will make it ride and handle much better. This set up matched with good springs, shocks, 27mm front sway bar, 18mm rear sway bar, roller bearing spring saddles and roller top conversion to the power steering box will make for an awesome handling car!

Make sure you have travel between the upper control arm and bump stop and don't ride on the bump stops or it will drive like a bag of shit.

I've got them on my GXL, and for a short period fitted them to my fairlane to test them out, they are a nice upgrade from the original rubber saddles however i didn't really get a chance to test them out. Here is a bit more info on them http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/faq/

Yeah go all the same on side but better if you go a bit lighter on the rear screen or at night all you will be seeing is black in the rear view mirror. I'm going to go dark on front and rear doors on my XC and a lighter tint on the rear screen.

My XC gets around 400km+ on a tank of gas (70L) so roughly 17L per 100kms. Stock iron head crossflow with strongberg carby, 4speed, 2.92, extractors, 2 1/4 inch exhaust and stock 14inch rims with 205s. Driving both city and freeway but i do drive the car pretty hard now that i converted it to manual. Overall the car is cheap as to run, only just recently refilled the tank on completely empty (got in 73L) at 57.6 cents a litre with a coles 8 cent discount and it cost me $36.46! Looking forward to fitting a el ohc motor with a T5 in the near future ohc engines love the gas!