78xcgxl

My XC still runs original lower ball joints and tie roads with 190,000 km on them now and they are nice and tight, the upper ball joints have been replaced. The original stuff is great and i'm going to source a good set of second hand original tie rods for my GXL much better than that Chinese shit they are selling. It surprises me the amount of people who waste money by replacing ball joints and tie rods just because the rubber boot is stuffed when the actual part is still good.

Oh dear I’ve offended a crossflow purist, my bad. Sorry I’ll won’t voice my opinion and share my ideas then, thought that‘s what the forum is about, but okay.

If your not a fan of fuel injection or the wiring side of things you could always run a carby set up on a 4.0l. A mate of mine runs a EL tickford motor with a EA CFI intake with a Weber carby and he reckons it goes harder than in fuel injection form but however fuel consumption is much higher. 4.0l with a T5 and 3.45 diff makes for one quick car.

For the trouble it's worth, i'd drop in a 4.0L, cheaper, more power, great on fuel and just all-round shit loads better. Just my 5 cents.

Yeah that would be awesome mate, if not to much trouble. I've look all over the internet and forums with no success, i'm probably going to go to pick-a-part and remove a complete setup off an AU and whack it in.

Hi all, I'm fitting a AU engine into a XC falcon and when i was removing the engine out the AU i took no regard to any of the manifold vacuum switch setup or canister and canister purge under the LH guard. I have no idea how the setup is hooked up and does anyone have a diagram or pictures of the setup. I need to know where all the pipes from the canister go and the vacuum setup for BBM manifold vacuum. I have searched all over the Internet but will no luck, any help would be much appreciated. This is the carbon canister i'm talking about.

Sensational, what can i say, great minds think alike! Surely there is a project thread on this beast that i haven't come across?

Haha love the photo with the Barra in the boot, only thing different i would done is replaced the crossflow with the barra in the engine bay and chucked the crossflow in the boot!

AOD, you have to have a overdrive in a transmission! Non-overdrive transmissions are restrictive and only good on the drag strip.

Yep you beat me to it. If anyone is planing on doing 4 liter conversion to a XW/Y note that the BBM will hit the shock tower and not clear.

Job is already a pain in the ass as it is, soo much harder doing it with the column in. I highly recommend taking the column out, will save you time and pain.

Pretty sure you can change the pedal box on any xseries with the dash still in, well i know this is true for XA,B,C. You have to remove the steering column however. I hate changing bloody pedal boxes, cunt of a job, changed the one in my xc last week.

Yep going custom to clear the AU sump.

Hi all, I am in need of some help can anyone with a XG falcon or has a XG sway please measure the distance between the the front dip and chassis bush location. See pic below for what area i want measured. I need to know the measurements ASAP. Cheers Giovanni

Thanks Karl, Your a deadset champ mate!

Alright cheers for that mate, i think a el handbrake lever in a XC would look shithouse hahaha.

Hi all, I'm thinking of buying a leaf spring diff that is at 3.45 LSD for my XC but it is out of a EL/EF wagon and i want to run the EB rear brakes and handbrake setup. So can you mount EB calipers on a EL/EF diff provided that i use the brackets and EB discs.

That wiring you have, sure it may look like a big mess, but not really that hard if you lay it out as there is only one way it can go in.

I'd go with a 3:45 LSD diff, not much more revs on the highway compared to a 3.23 but take off is so much better. 3.45 are tyre shredders you won't regret it.

Yeah will drop straight in with a XF bell housing and it is definitely worth dropping the 4.0L in, best thing you will ever do !

As some of you may know i am about to commence work on doing a 4.0l conversion into my XC. I have been doing a lot of research on the matter and what not but I'm not sure on what to do on the lpg side of things. My XC is currently running dual fuel and i wish to retain this feature when i install the AU motor. Some of the queries below What is involved in keeping the gas and what are my options ? As far as gas setup on AUs go i mainly see the convertor type, but do some run vapor injection as well or is that only on BA onwards? What is this i hear about tickford LPG?

Oh and an update on the gas saga, i'm going to go gas injection. Had a chat with my cousin about and he said he is able to do it. So that means no chance of backfiring, no power loss, much neater setup and better fuel economy. Can't wait. On his BF fairlane gas injection he is getting 350+ out of a 40 liter tank so i should be getting around 500km to a tank with the 70l tank. How good is that!, better economy than a Prius absolutely rapped!

Electrics were a pain in the ass and very time consuming. Spent days studying Au wiring diagrams trying to make sense of it. I used the stock AU ecu with a J3 chip to get rid of smart lock and convert the ecu from an auto to a manual one. here is the build thread on it, for more details: http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/39584-1979-xc-falcon-500-raw-orange/

Hi guys i'm in need of help. As some of you may know, who follow my thread, i'm doing the 4.0L conversion to a XC Falcon. So far the conversion has been going quite smoothly but however we have run into a problem, that none of use can figure out. First off the car has spark and when we sprayed a bit of aerostart down the throttle body and it started and died so the problem is a fuel or a wiring one. We have checked all the fuel lines, tried several pumps even a EL( one so the correct pressure was had and what not) , even connected it direct to the fuel rail with no success. The injectors do have power at both wires on each injector when the ignition is on the start position but don't appear to be pulsing when the engine is being cranked over. If i use the test light on injector wires with the key on then they "click" and inject when i touch with the test light, but they don't seem to work when i try to start the car. The other problem that could be the cause is the fuel regulator but we find this strange to be the case as the engine was running a week ago when it was pulled out of the AU Another possible problem is because i cleaned the engine( pressure washer, degreaser etc) could it be possible that the water may have disturbed the cam sensor because Injector pulse is controlled by cam sensor and ECU?? Finally another option i could think of is something i've stuffed up with the wiring. Any help, advice or ideas will be greatly appreciated,i mean anything, i really want it to be running tomorrow, it is doing my head in. Cheers Giovanni

Sure was mate, took 2 days to work out the problem, was driving us crazy over something so simple! It's an awesome conversion, nice power upgrade, efficient and practical. Thank god the hardest part is over! Here is a vid of it's first proper start up. Happy days