78xcgxl

EF standard 6 157kw @4900rpm 357Nm @3000rpm EF V8 165kw @4500 rpm 388Nm @3000rpm Struggling to see the big advantage of having the V8 in this example while taking into consideration the extra weight of 300kg you estimate. Sorry.

You'd rather a 6 cylinder EF anyways they go harder than the V8s and use half the fuel at the same time hahahha

Hahah they are bloody awesome, go so hard and so cheap to run! 409Nm of bloody torque stock! I'm in stages of convincing my Mum to get a FG G6E MkII Ecolpi as her next car

Interesting, with the big engine being built, you could use a FG Ecolpi engine they have 12.1 compression stock

Air bag is separate to the steering wheel anyways, you can change the steering wheel and still retain the original airbag..........

Go the EB, much better car in all aspects. I have a soft spot for EBs and especially ED XR6s, they look awesome!

Hey Dave, i don't know exactly what brand it was but it just some a/c Synthetic Oil that the workshop uses on all the late model cars running R134a gas. I don't actually have a digital thermometer so didn't measure the vent temps but it has to be at least 4 degrees if not less out the vents, never been in a car with such cold A/C. I might buy a digital thermometer now, you have got me curious

Thought i'd give an update on the A/C on my ZH fairlane. I replaced all the seals with new green ones,installed R134a gas fittings, installed a new TX valve and installed a new receiver dryer. I was going to use minus 30 gas but my mate didn't have the fitting to go on the can so we just installed good old R134a which is okay as i converted the system to run it anyways. So 850grams was filled as per Ford's instructions and results were far better than expected. A/C is literally freezing and works much better than my BA falcon! I'm so happy with the outcome and just goes to prove the factory a/c can work fantastic even with the crappy york compressor. Keep in mind the A/C box has not been touched, A/C compressor is original 78 stamped one, lines are all original along with the condenser. This all cost me under $200. I can't wait to see how it will work in my XC as i have rebuilt the box, will be running the BF compressor and a XG/XF brand new condenser which is much better than a XC/ZH one, along with all brand new lines. Will be great on car club runs and show and shine events, seeing people sweating their ass in vinyl seats while i'll be cruising with a jacket on as the A/C is soo cold hahaha Here are some pics. And check this out, look how bloody cold it gets hahaha!

Great video, use ad blocker. I watched a few episodes with no ads what so ever!

With the AU pump on SOHC engine mated with XG power steering box and lines i just ran ATF and it ran sweet no whines or issues of any nature, can't see why the BF pump can't do the same. I've got plenty of ATF fluid and i am too much of a tight ass to buy p/s fluid hahaha.

The steering on the XC running the AU pump was awesome and steering feel was great. Will see how the BF pump feels instead. I was going to just stick ATF fuild in it but will that really cause it to whine???

For a XA- XD sedan with a 6cylidner cast iron head the springs you should use is king springs KFFL-01, if you have alloy head crossflow then you run KFFL-00. XGs with the 4litre should run KFFL-01 as well. So if you have are X series with a Barra or SOHC 6 i would run the KFFl-01 springs.

What is the part number on the King low springs you have fitted? And is the engine cast or alloy head crossy?

You have to be careful as i know that some early E sereis diffs have a different spline count on the axles than the later model ones. I can't remember the exact figures, not 100% if only on EAs or whether the difference is between whether the early diffs are 2 pinion compared to the later 4 pinion ones. Hopefully someone here knows.

As Thom said you will need an AU T5 bell housing or you can still run a e series bell housing like i have done on mine for the past year but you won't be able to use the bottom bolts. The BA/BF pressure plate is different and cannot be used with a cable clutch setup, you need to use a E series to AU clutch. Also as a reference guide AU to FG run the same bell housing pattern.

I'd be more worried at the fact a tyre of that size likely won't fit under a X Series Ute.

Who ever did the wheel alignment on your XC must of done it correct, often joints who do wheel alignments use the wheel alignment specs for a manual steering car on a power steering car hence the floaty feel. Factory specs on power steering cars state they require more positive castor. This is not the case on manual steering cars as they will be to heavy to steer. Pump pressure is not the issue and would strongly advise to not mess with it, wheel alignments cost only around $60 so can't see why you wouldn't go down this route. Anyways just my 2 cents.

Leave the pump alone and get the wheel alignment sorted. Run maxmium postive caster through the cast rods and space the front upper control arms bolt 3mm for further positive caster gain. Power steering is no where light/ floating in my XC and ZH with awesome steering feel and about the same steering effort as my BA to about roughly slightly heavier. Handling also greatly improves my doing this.

A FG sump would be a good starting point as the sump is to the rear like the sump setup on a 6 cylinder cortina.

If your going go this route, i would strongly suggest using a DOHC Barra engine as the turbo setup will be already there, much better engine for pretty my the same amount of work.

BF look to be the same as FG starters just pulled one off the BF engine going into my XC, E series and BA starters loom dimensionally the same in size.

I apologize in advance if these questions are stupid but i just need a nice and straight forward answer 1. Is a ef/el alternator the same as an AU one eg: can you mount a ef/ef alternator on an AU motor and brackets? From a bit a research, I think AU series 1 alternator are different form series 2&3 alternators? 2. Is a A/C compressor from a V8 AU the same as one for a 6 cylinder AU? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Platinum Blue, on my XC i completetly pulled apart the A/C box, checked and replaced any brocken vacuum lines, vcumm motors, pressure tested the heater core etc. So it should work very well. If you want the a/c to work far better i would stay away from the original york compressor, they are simply rubbish, run a modern one. XCs also have no actual a/c switch on the controls it simply comes on when the lever is in the MAX (recirculation) or Fresh (oustside air) with the fan turned on. see pics in my project thread on the heaterbox: http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/30684-xc-fairmont-gxl-long-term-project/page-3

Me and a mate of mine sucessfully got the A/C working on a ZH for a customer, second hand hoses, second hand compressor (crappy original york one) new TX valve, New dryer and new oilrings all around. Was going to use Minus 30 gas but ended up using R134a (850grams) and worked awesome, ice cold. Replaced a few cut/damaged vacumm lines on the a/c box and everything works. Can't wait to do the same on mine, but will use Minus 30 gas so should see even better results! Just goes to show that factory a/c can work sensational.

3.3s are dangerously slow haha, i could never bring my self to drive one on a daily basis. If i was you i would try to buy a cheap XF with a 4.1 and T5 and transplant all the running gear into your XD. XF cross flows are much nicer and better on fuel with the weber carby.