scottly

revhead is right I had to do this with mine I cant remember the drill bit size or the tap size sorry

I'm using a 6 cyl cluster with my v8. There's a trimpot down the side of the tacho that you adjust the rpm with. Even without calibration gear you can get it fairly close.

 

To get you in the ballpark, set your fast idle up to show 2000 rpm on the 6 cyl setting. Adjust the trimpot so at this engine rpm the tacho now shows 1500. Congrats, you now have a V8 tacho.

any chance some one can post a pic on where this trimpot is and what it looks like im keen to convert my 6 tach to a 8 tach cheers scott

Ring Alpha and talk to them, they are a great source of advice.

and they've done some good work

http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/

thanks for the reply mate yeah I probably should call them I don't think they would be to impressed with me trying to get there knowledge out of them that makes them there money and with out a sale.

My mate put a glass bulge in his bonnet, the hole was cut undersize and a flange mad the glass' and resin were laid down on the bonnet the bulge was fitted and Screwed then fibreglassed and bogged then sanded smooth been on the car for 3 years and hasn't cracked

thanks for the reply mate looks nice don't think ive seen any thing like that done before

hey guys,

 

I will be fitting a 4 inch fibreglass reverse cowl to my ford xd steel bonnet in the next couple of weeks. just have a few questions if any one has done this or have any experience.

 

this is what Im unsure on

 

do i leave the paint as is on the bonnet where the cowl sticks to it or skuff it ? 

 

do i use screws to hold it in place? and do they stay in there or do you remove them?

 

can i cut more than just the air cleaner hole out of the bonnet or will that make it to week?

 

any recommendations would be great or pictures or links i might go down to the body shop and see what they say they probably wont tell me lol

 

 

hey mate,

 

if you have not fixed your leaky plenum yet there is a few ways I know of to fix it.

 

you can un-pic the plenum spotwelds and cut out and treat the rusted area and then weld a new section in and seal the metal with a anti rust paint like por 15 then paint over that if you like.

 

the dodgy way of doing this is to remove as much rust and flakes as you can treat the area with a killrust then paint with por 15 anti rust then squirt a heap of sikaflex around the rusted area place some flexable plastic ( thicker than a zip lock sandwich) bag over the holes and add more sikaflex over the top.

 

take a look at my build thread to see what it looks like when you unpic a plenum its pretty easy im not a panel beater just trying to help my old xf had the same issue it use to suck driving with plastic bags over my shoes lol 

call yella terra. probably your best bet, or VPW.

cheers for the reply ill give them a call tomorrow or email

 

just buy new

 

but look out there not trying to sell you a 1.72 rocker i smashed one a while back and got a new one and a few months ago i put it together and seei t was the worng one

cheers for the reply there is nothing wrong with the rocker arms they are almost new so im trying to avoid buying new ones just chasing those parts worst case I will thanks

Hey guys i have aquired a set of yella terra adjustable roller rockers one of them is missing the nut on top of the push rod adjuster and another one is missing the same nut and the whole section that goes threw the pushrod side of the rocker. I've done I bit of looking around and having trouble sourcing these parts does any one have a contact that they could put me on to thanks scott

thanks guys for all the replys 

 

there was no voltage problem it turns out i was the goon who had no idea on end of the multimeter, tyler you are very right pos coil to neg coil gives a incorrect reading but pos coil to any earth on the car reads 13.9 witch is correct lol thanks again

The resistor wire is only on XDs that had points ignition (Cast iron 6cyl).

Alloy Heads and V8s had electronic igition and no resistor wire.

Hmmm.. My ute was a factory alloy head crossflow. I'm away for the long weekend I will have to have another look when I get home thanks for that great info mate

ding ding 2 thumbs up for you tyler some good information right there ill have to get out in the garage tomorrow and have a play. killer Cortina to man I haven't  looked it up on this forum yet thanks

Yep that sounds right. What's the problems<br /><br />

the guy from ice said the coil should read over 12v the car runs but takes bit to get started. if it does not get a full 12v will my motor lack spark I dont know what is wright or wrong I also don't want to fry my coil.

 

gaz the coil only has the the positive and negative going to it from the factory wiring loom and a positive and negative going to the coil for the ice ignition module.

 

thanks for the replys any other ideas or information on this?

hey guys,

 

in the engine bay of my ford xd ute the 2 ignition coil wires red light green (positive) and pink blue (neg) on the factory wiring loom I am having trouble with the voltage not sure if this is normal the guy from ice ignition recons I should have 12v plus at the coil.

 

when I put the pos multimeter wire to the pos coil wire and neg multimeter wire the neg coil wire its reading 7.6v it should be over 12v yeah?

 

but when I leave the multimeter pos to the coil pos wire and I move the multimeter neg wire on to various earthed parts of the car it reads 12.9v?

 

my xd was originally a 6 cylinder now a Cleveland and the ignition is a ice 7amp 2 step kit  

 

any help or advice would be fantastic I am trying to sort out the the small problems threw winter on my xd project ute whilst I can not do paint and panel work

 

thanks scott

Thanks for the replys guys tried a few of the things above paint stripper seems to be go. The engine is on a stand I'm just puting thin coats of stripper on small section at a time not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Thanks for the replys

Hey guys I have a Cleveland short motor I'm working on at the moment, i am wanting to know some other methods of engine paint removal i have used a 4 inch grinder with a wire wheel on all the open sections but can not get into all the tight sections with it. I don't want go smearing paint stripper or harsh chemicals all over the motor it will end up getting way to messy and end up on some thing it's not ment to. I have masked off from the sump down and a cross the top and face of the block any info would be great or even tell me how you would tackle this job I could feed off other ideas.

 

Cheers scott

hey guys, thanks for all the replys i now have lots of info that will help me out. looks like i will be doing clear over the white now and dont think i will use 2pac clear tho. i will check that cguard out and i will check that acrilic vs 2pac thread cheers guys

Hey guys I'm painting my Xd ute in acrilic Snow White and I have a few questions I need help with.

 

When i paint my ute in snow white do I have to clear coat over the Snow White, if not what are the advantages and disadvantages of clear coating?

 

I would like to know what products are used on the lower rear quarter panel to stop the paint from chipping how are you mixing it what grit do you sand it back with?

 

I will start a project thread soon any help would be great cheers scott

cheers for the replys boys, is dions the red xd408? those chi heads a very popular with dandy engines and pavtek on there stroker combos and man some of those engine make good numbers lol.

 

i have been looking into the alloy head stroker combos more and im kinda getting a better idea now, but i think ill talk to a engine builder when its time to buy the heads

hey guys, been looking around at many stroker combo's as i plan on getting a alloy head roller cammed 408 cleveland built for a street car. i have started gathering parts but along the way i have noticed not many poeple are using the alloy 4v heads, they all seem to be running alloy 2v or or chi 3v heads why is this are the 4v's getting out performed by the smaller heads or?

 

alloy heads are new to me any info would be great on this thanks scott