scottly

Sounds nice what size and brand of mufflers did you use?

Pavtek use them in there 393 550hp clevo combo with a warranty and I have only heard good thing about pavtek engines. I have not used one myself tho

I think I was getting to excited with the air speed file I rubbed through on edges and on the Edge of a low. I bought some 1k etch primer cans so I'll mask up the filler and primed areas and spot prime the exposed steel hopefully no fry ups

Hey guys, I am currently working on my doors for the Xd ute and i have rubbed through to bare metal in a few spots and edges. what is the process of spraying the bare metal sections is it a case of mask off the primed and exposed body filler leaving the bare metal sections exposed to be etch primed, or can you just spot etch prime out of a pressure pack using the same paint on the bare metal and not worry about over spray on the filler and on the normal primer that's the real question?

 

Thanks guys

I'm keen to see what people have done on this topic As well

Try Ron from Kustom Bitz call him give him your measurement thread size and how many you need and he will post any where and he is cheap and a nice dude and likes fords. I had a set made for my barra engine $69 for Allen key wind in studs intake and exhaust nuts and washers that's freekin cheap

My biggest regret is not using studs so +1 for studs

Thanks for the replys fellas, it didn't make sense to me oiling a tool to use on panel work when primer,paint and filler is down on the panel considering your not ment to touch it with clean bare hands. from now on I might do one drop of oil run the air tool for 1 minuet full song away from the panels im working I might even hold a price of paper near the exhaust and see how much oil comes out. I'm surprised there isnt oil catching filters or a better system

Hey guys, this is one for the panel beaters and spray painters. I have just bought a air speed file and I am wondering when I oil it and use it will spit oil out on my panel I'm working into shape is there a particular oil to use? It is un-used at the moment I'm waiting to get the right size paper but I'm keen to give it a test run.

Ive been told there is a factory oil filter that's bolted to the block that feeds the oil to the turbo some times this can get dirty and starve the turbos oil supply make sure your mate replaces the filter or the same thing could happen to the new turbo some one correct me if this is incorrect

Ok cool any pointers on where this is located is it a part of the cluster or is it located some where else in the dash thanks for the Reply mate

Hey guys has any one experienced indicators not working and then some times working and a fizzing kind of noise coming from the dashboard?

Hey guys thanks for the info I'm going to aim for a new cable cheers

Stock cam and springs will restrict you but being sohc your mad not to change them as there easy to get to

Hey mate, there are a heap of sohc ford guys running around with 350kws on completely stock Au engines with the required bolt ons of course, I'm sure there will be guys that have pushed these engines to find there limits but 350kw reliable is achievable just need to find the tuner that will make the set up last.

The front cable is in very good condition also. Cheers gregaust I'll check them out

what's wrong with that one anyway?

often the front one is the cable that causes grief. the one that attaches to the handle itself and goes under the car

thanks for the reply mate my Xd has a 9 inch disc brake diff my factory cable was damaged and the cable in the pic has frayed sections on it but that's the type I'm after.

Sorry mate I was I a rush and just wanted to get it in so it would cure quickly, it was basically a massive hollow section where the grey epoxy is now. With this release cable I am using now I will make sure it is moving freely and easily what do you use to lubricate these cables? I've always been gentle as with the handle an never had a problem and then some Num nut yanks on it and brakes it at my cost mother fuker. 2am in the middle of nowhere and a Broken down car would be shit as lol

Hey guys, I'm chasing up a handbrake cable for my Xd ute I'm not sure if this is the factory one or from another model. does any one know what this green colored cable came off factory and can you get these new?

 

Hey guys thought I'd post a pic of how I made my bonnet release handle stronger as one of the blokes from Pedders suspension broke mine like 5 years ago. I used a 2 part epoxy masked it up and filled the hollow section until full. I am now wondering if this would work on the handbrake as well!.

 

 

I am going a T400 for mine scottly, hoping to be well over 400kw though. I had a C4 built for it with all the fruit before this. Cost me about 5k through Als Race Glides not including converter or bell housing. It had extra clutches the lot, and al warranted it to 1000hp. I have since sold it to fund a T400, which I should have ordered by now lol.

Hey jetftr, thanks for the reply what was the main reason you changed to t400 over the c4 with the 1000 hp warranty that you aready had?

 

Cheers scott

not sure how you'd fit one behind the BA motor but they are much stronger than the C4 and can be made to handle over 1000hp quite reasonably

 

 

 

don't say C10, it's a C4

 

if guys in the states have them behind nitrous cars pushing 800hp then they will live longer behind a 800hp turbo motor

you're looking at about $500 rebuilt kit for 500HP plus cost of someone to do the rebuilt which takes a day at $100/h with a good core you're looking at $1300, add oil and you're up to $1500 dollars

 

the upgrades from 500HP are relatively cheap!

Better servo around $200

Needle bearing for 9 around $100

Direct drum mods to get 6-7 clutches and oiling around $250

Roller bearing on the forward clutch $160

Roller forward planet gear $300

Roller rear planet $ 200

Roller reverse drum $100

PA26405 hardened input shaft $200

 

 

there you go about $3000 and she'll love you a long time, you might have to get a manual valve body for it if you want or choose or a trans brake but that's up to you

 

To get this transmission build locally you'll be looking at about 5-6k, if you buy all the parts you're looking at 2k or so then pay 1k for someone to assemble it and you're done, learn how to do it yourself if you can, the C4/C6 aren't that complicated. I've done a few C6's and they lived, the C4 is just smaller.

 

Just don't get ripped off, it's not rocket science and when reading crap on the interwebs keep in mind most C4's we got are 1970's up which comes with some of the oil mods already there but you can read up on it. It's pretty hard to fuck up rebuilding a C4 if you follow instructions. Hell just buy a rebuild kit and rebuilt it yourself and race it! if it breaks you can see where/what broke and you rebuild it again with stronger parts as now you know what you're doing and financially you'll come up on top and you gain a skill for life rather than just plonk money on the table so some 3 thooted pony tailed covered in tatts can have more beer

Thanks for such a detailed reply mate its great, this will help me out and a few others I'd say. I think I'm sold on the t400 but I will be keeping the c10 and I might give a rebuild a go with the old man for a future x series.

I'm learning as I go, so this is the summery of the c10 I have been given by very well know drag/street auto transmission builders in Melbourne. But yes plenty of racers still use the c10 and can be built to handle hp