scottly

Hey lads,  I currently have my 4 speed toploader out of my ute at the moment as it was weeping oil from almost every seal from not being driven.

Does any one know or has any one dealt with manual trans builder in Melbourne, I just need a seal kit put through the toploader and maybe a check over?

i have heard auto trans guys won't touch them and I also had a quote to reco it! They said like $3500 I was Like what do I get for that? And they where like good old used parts with a new seal kit and bearing kit! What the fuck that's almost the price of a new tko 600 

How did you go with your kit man, did you end up buying one? 

14 minutes ago, Travis said:

 

On 4/24/2019 at 8:20 AM, gerg said:

Many older water pumps, particularly clevos, are very inefficient at higher rpm, causing a cavitation bubble to form in the centre of the impeller. This is partially cured by slowing it down with a bigger pulley and/or installing a restriction in the top hose so that the pump has a load to work against.

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There was Australian company that ran this test vic based I think. They bolted a Cleveland water pump to a clear peice of Perspex  glass on a cooling system jig of some sort.  you had full view of what was going on behind the water pump they spun it at low rpm and then the took it up to mid to high rpm's and that is where it was having major issues. So there is already a solution out there, if this is your problem! I just can not remember the company name. I would call someone like pavtek or dandy engines ect 

On 4/22/2019 at 8:48 AM, Travis said:

Hey all, does anyone know if the serpentine pulley system are the same diameter as the standard pulleys? I know the Gilmer pulleys are a lot smaller,


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I have heard of guys having problems with the water pump spinning to fast, by increasing the coolant flow it does not allow enough time for It to cool when passing through the radiator.

i think the fix was a bigger water pump pulley maybe a chev one from memory?  Or this could just be a old school thing to do that never actually fixed the problem, I'm only going off what others have done 

Far out man you are really having some problems. Hopefully it's sorted out soon and you get to enjoy driving it.

Hey mate, I have the same problem with my xd ute it's a warm 302 Clevo with a quick fuel 650dp. I spray aero start down the carb so she fires first go and doesn't flood and runs perfect from then onwards, I put it down to the carby being over jetted for the motor and a poor battery and a shit starter motor. I will eventually get a hi torque starter motor and the Correct size Jetting to fix this but for now aero start for the first start of the day and she is all good. 

Yeah he definitely can get them, I'm trying to work out the cost but if they come on sale I'll buy one just to save where I can.

Hey guys, I'm currently looking at the elite haltech range of Ecu's for my twin cam turbo xe. I have been looking for suppliers that advertise prices and can't seen to find much, so I'm wondering what are the best company's to use has any one purchased one lately? Cheers Scott  

Were the gutters on these models welded from the inside which requires the roof skin to be removed to repair correctly?

Can you post some pics up when you decide what location you use I'm interested to see

Very very true mate

I'm pretty sure you can get bungs that use a thread and thin nut all you do is drill the hole slide the bung in, then the nut tightens from the inside of the rocker cover. But weld in is probably a better option 

4 hours ago, 2redrovers said:

Anything could be possible, I haven't looked at that panel to know what's involved though. Is it a bolt on or weld on panel? I'd need either the part or a car to work from for templates etc.

Mate I wish I had straight one for you to work off every xd xe xf I have ever had come threw my hands have all been shagged like dean said towbar cut out with a trailer plug screwed on or just being a low down panel people Seem to hit some thing every time reverse is engaged. I could see this being a good panel to reproduce and take to market as no one does it. But like you say you need a template, thinking about it now I'd deffinatly buy 2 hopefully some one has a good example I'm on the hunt now.

Hey man, have you thought about making a replacement beaver panel to suit xd xe xf's maybe even stepping up the thickness of the sheet metal to make it that bit stronger. I'd be keen for 1 maybe even a spree one 

Hey mate not really answering your question but have you looked into the renogate sequential shifters that's what I currently have in my xd

Hey mate not really answering your question but have you looked into the renogate sequential shifters that's what I currently have in my xd

That sounds wright but I'm still a little unsure I remember it being a kit!! Au motors are a kick ass for boost should be a fun project

I'm pretty sure there is a face book page, a guy makes cheap kits I can't remember the name of it some one else here might know?

It had I slight bump going into reverse, other than that it seemed normal to me

Cool looks like I'll put it back together tomorrow hopefully, yes the pan still had the magnet to. Will be interesting to see if the band adjustments changes how the gearbox behaved.

So the oil in the bottom of the pan isn't a nice color small amount of metal shavings. The O ring is really good condition aswell should I be checking any thing else while it's apart?

Thanks for the link I'm going to pull the pan off today and have a look. I would do the Welch plug if I was keeping the car a 250 but it only has to pass a road worthy and a few small drives that's it

Thanks man I'll put some pics up when I take the pan off and get the service kit

Thanks for the replys fellas, the xe is original 4.1 auto with no mods and it will stay that way until its ready for a major driveline upgrade, so I won't be doing the rear main seal or doing the rear welch plug as it only has to pass a road worthy. So dex this O ring that fails does this come in the service kit or will I have to purchase it seperatly and is it easy to locate? I've clever worked with autos before, interesting info I didn't know a low torque wrench even existed damn another tool to buy lol

I pulled the auto out of my blue xe on the weekend to change the flex plate as it was missing teeth. Does any one know if there is any common faults I should address while there gearbox is out?, I plan to adjusts the bands and change the filter pan seal. Thanks guys