scottly

I spoke to a machinist a few weeks ago he measures all the bores then Pics the biggest one or worst bores that to see what he an get away with. if you have a virgin bore block insted of jumping straight up to 10thou you can go up 5 thou if you order the piston to suit, this is a much better option it leaves more meat on the cylinder walls and will assist with keeping engine temps down, This is all after a sonic test crack test ect There is also a method on how to clean the bores correctly and get the metal shavings out of the block that's all I no of

wow that's bloody cool mate, I have never heard a motor like this in person I bet its gonna make a real mean noise, good luck with the build on this sucker ill be staying tuned in

cool mate I am interested ill be watching the build.

hey guys, I have been really getting into the au sohc boosted powered cars lately and I now want to build one lol. does any one know how much it cost to get a quality forged piston au long engine built for around 350-400rwkw or has any one had work done by tunnel vision, atomic ect, any info would be great on your experience engine cost engine builders around the Melbourne eastern suburbs or further thanks scott

thanks for the replys guys 10k seems okish for a engine built by Jason the atomic long engines are around 14k for 400-450 kw but those tunnel v cars are bloody mint day in day out. I have been following the build of your van its bloody nuts mate great work, do you remember how much your head cost to get cnc ported and who done it? yeah I have read some thing like that for a cheaper build you can use a ba forged piston may need to be machined for the valves and ba egas rods and that's good for around 350kw plus, I find it bloody frustrating that I can get a new ba xr6 turbo long engine for $5500 seems really good bang for buck. feel free to keep the post coming guys thanks scott

hey mate, a bit off topic but I reckon you should start a build thread with some details on the engine you have and the car its in or planning to go in and what its purpose is, it has me interested id say a fair few others to cheers scott

Hey mate, just wondering is that bullbar legal how it degrees forward of the car?

hey guys, i have been looking around at some of my spare parts and now have myself wondering about a e85 blow through turbo setup on clevo. does any one know if a standard comp clevo will work well with e85 and a safe amount of boost? open chamber or closed chamber heads?, I know with e85 you can run a lot more comp safely. I have not been able to find much on this clevo wise, any info would be great or even a link would be good to

thanks for the replys bloody perfect, would love to know what power and torque both of those cars make i basically have a standard comp and cammed 302c on a engine stand in the garage and it had me wondering if it will work with e85 as the comp ratio for e85 is higher than for petrol engines. i have been thinking about just a basic blow threw set up for now until i can afford a to build a 351c or similar, i want to buy exhaust plates and make my own exhaust to suit a single borg warner s400 or similar, quick fuel e85 blow through carb, fuel reg and pump to suit, standard dizzy to suit boost or locked. im still learning so sorry if it sounds dumb or not clear just curious if it will work and if any one else has done similar cheers scott

hey guys, I am in need of a new standard style power steering pump for my clevo xd . If any one has purchased one lately how much did you pay and where from warranty ect, im wondering where is the best place to buy a new one from. I have aslo been told you can use other pumps from different makes and models unsure on this?? any help would be awesome thanks scott

thanks for the interest guys hendrixhc that looks exactly like what I am after, what brand pulley is that and is it a Cleveland standard type or like chev one??, engine bays don't get much better than that in my books but a garret plumed in there would look bloody bonza good work mate and thanks ilied thanks for the reply I think ill buy some new gear like posted in the pics above and millgrove is near warburton its like the Sunnyvale of the yarra valley its a fair shit hole I talk to maybe 5 people that live here xcsedan thanks for the reply and your offer im going to buy new it looks so good I will keep in mind if I ever need another one

thanks for the replys guys, shit I just read the bracket requirements I am using a after market oem style alloy bracket that requires a Saginaw pump with a mounting stud in the lower right corner at the back of the pump if this helps? ill have a look online now

hey mate, the por 15 rust treatment paint has instructions on the back off the top of my head it goes some thing like this. get rid of as much rust as you can buy wire brush wire wheel ect then blow all rust flakes out with the air compressor, then you clean the area with por15 marine clean in a squirty bottle, then clean it with por15 metal prep after that dries it should be ready to paint with por15 rust treatment, paint in thin even multiple coats brush on or spray on . im no panel beater there could be other tips and tricks, a auto body shop should help you out as well

Wow, i have never seen any thing like this build good work mate loving the N/A 6's lately I think I will stay tuned and watch with a lot of interest

ford the heater use 90 degree elbows where it exits into the bay

hey mate, call ron from kustom bitz 0407818511 he has bolt kits to suit lots of makes and models, they are cheap and cheap postage to, they also have a website hope this helps

thanks bud, it didn't have a barb fitting but I found a old fuel regulator with a dodgy plastic barb fitting that done the trick. then with a bit of aerostat i got it running not the best but enough for what I needed. cheers

hey guys, I don't really know much about the thermoquad carbs other than there is shit ever where on them, i am wanting to know just some base settings before start up. would it be ok to block all the vac ports off and just run a fuel line to the carb? or does it need specific ones hooked up? also is there a setting for the fuel adjusting screws eg 2 1/2 turns out from all the way in? the car only has to run long enough to set the timing and be moved from front yard to back yard . any info would awesome or a link thanks

thanks for the replys guys looks like it has to be done by hand, I was hoping for a easy way out but hey got to do what you got to do. ill post pictures in my build thread one day motivation is picking back up to work on my ute

hey guys, im slowly doing the body work on my xd ute and finding the doorjams a bastard to sand by hand its so time consuming. is there a specific tool for this I was looking at 2inch orbital sanders but can not find a Velcro soft pad and sand paper to suit any help would be great or links cheers scott

shit sorry guys, I shoud of posted this in the first post, Im after a tool to sand body filler down and the highfill primer down in the tight areas but keeping it all even thanks

cool topic chops im also keen to see some pics and ideas on the section where the spare wheel door is

I have not used them myself I was looking into the twin piston kits a while ago as I have 15inch rim and didnt want to go bigger I never purchased any tho. might pay to give them a call sorry

hey mate,Ultra Performance Components do aftermarket ford brake up grade kits. I think they do a 330mm kit and a twin piston standard size rotor uprade kit they might sell parts individually if you where thinking on building your own combo. Factory 4, 385 Dorset Road,, Bayswater, VIC 3153 p: 03 9762 1500

Yes I would suggest 27mm on the front no bigger or you can suffer under steer and 24mm on the rear a really well worth it very noticeable when fitted