scottly

I'm learning as I go, so this is the summery of the c10 I have been given by very well know drag/street auto transmission builders in Melbourne. But yes plenty of racers still use the c10 and can be built to handle hp

All the trans guys I spoke to said the ford c10 c4 boxs are not shit they are a good box that can handle big hp but will not last as long as a t400 powerglide especially on a forced Barra as they make big torque and early, I would get my c10 built if it was for a n/a Clevo but t400 I am sold on I think value for money and options is to good. From what I have heard the t700 is good but it is limited hp wise

Hey fellas, I have talked to a few transmission builders over the last week and they all have said the c10 can be built to handle big hp but they don't last compared to t400,powerglide, the body of the case is to small even after you machine the inside to allow for bigger clutches ect. So I am more leaning towards the t400 as they are strong as feck many power options and street manners would be nice compared to the powerglide. I will be getting my engine tuned over the next couple of months so I will have a exact power figure to work with and dyno sheet for the converter boys. Any other Info on this topic would be great it's always good to learn before you go buying parts lol Cheers scott

Hey mate if your after value for money try eBay.com I got a deville biss hvlp pack it came with a priming gun 2mm tip A finishing gun with a 1.3 and 1.5 tip tools and brushes to pull apart and clean the guns. I think it was like $180 to my door when the dollar was good

Hey guys, I've been looking into my Xd fairmont ghias fuel system, the engine as a fg dohc barra turbo, that will be flash tuned to run on e85. My problem is I want to run a complete aftermarket fuel system fuel cell, surge tank, fuel pumps, hard line ect full in boot set up but there isn't a full kit or a diagram of exactly what needs to be bought to do this . Any guidance would be great the power I'm aiming for is 340rwkw realisticly but hopefully 400 rwkw any pics or links would be great I have contacted aeroflow but still waiting for them to reply thanks scott

Wow to me that looks pretty bad, i'd take it back if I paid good coin for it but if you got it done cheap well then this was coming.

Hey guys, I'm currently doing rust repairs on my Xd ute I cut a section out of the passenger side rear sill and noticed it's got surface rust on the inside not to bad but enough to make me want to treat it correctly, I have no idea what product to use or how you could even apply it inside the full length of the sill. All help would be great especially if there are any panel beaters that want to share there knowledge

Hey mate I have one of these spray guns but I have misplaced the hose section i will have to try and find it, also I think I would have to make it pretty long to get up into the sill. What product are you spraying to stop the rust mate are you just using fish oil or is there more proffetional product out there? Cheers scott

Hey Dave thanks for the reply I have cut out the bad area the rest is only surface rust, if I was doing a gt restoration i would consider that method or removal of the whole sill and repair and seal the metal. I am basically after a spray on product to stop the rust in its tracks before it starts eating away and creating holes.

Sent them a message waiting for a reply I might have to head to the Wreckers with the battery grinder lol

Hey guys I'm in need of a passenger side xd ute sill the rear section that finishes off to the wheel arch, is there any where you can buy new replacement sections. Also are they the same from xd to xh? This might be one for the panel beaters who can get ahold of the repair sections

Cheers mate I'll check them out now

Hey guys I scored these wheels a few months back but I am having trouble finding what the three holes are that go around the center of the rim is it for a certain type of center cap? The wheels also have a raised ford emblem on the inside is this normal or did they come out on a ford they are from America? Any info would be great im looking for ways to hide the three holes or use them how ever that is

I wonder if that style will fit I might try a few wheel shops over the next couple of days and see what the say. The easiest way might be to drill out another two holes on each rim and use the 5 screw cap

thanks to confirm that mate, that really sucks I can not find the correct caps any where ill have to keep hunting

Hey guys, I have read many discussions over the last couple of years about Cleveland bocks and their weekness issues that they suffer from but putting that a side what is the strongest factory cast of Cleveland block to aim for when building a new engine. I have heard the pillow block, the Xd,Xe blocks, early American cast that were cast in Australia? If some one could clear this up for me and maybe for a lot other people aswell would be great plus it's Clevo talk

I am not planning a build yet this is just a topic I have been thinking about for a while as I have heard so many different story's about what block to use, if you put pillow blocks and nascar blocks a side is there a desired cast of block to hunt for say 450hp as an example? or is it a case of if you where to use a standard ford cast Cleveland block is it a game of trying to find one with original bores, no core shift, passed sonic and crack test? I know if I where to get a engine built for 550hp plus I would definitely use a revised aftermarket block

will do mate cheers, I know the ba windage tray has a hole in it where the dip stick goes threw and the fg one does not. I will upload photos in my build tread when I do more work on this engine and find out what works

Hey guys I'm going to start a fg turbo conversion into my xd sedan and I am wondering when you bolt the ba sump on do you have to move the location of the dipstick to the front? If so how do I go about getting the metal bung out that is blocking the hole does it push threw or does it need to be pushed from the inside out? If any one could shed some light on this topic it would be great thanks Scott

thanks for the reply mate, I have not done this yet but that's the way I assumed it would be done reverse the way it went in. do you remember if it hits the windage tray when the dip stick goes in the front hole in the block?

Thanks for the reply mate appreciate it, is that the oil pump behind the alternator or the water pump if not where is the water pump located? Sorry to be a painful I am learning off the people who have done this conversion. it's all new to me and I'm starting a fg conversion in a xd and I want to delete the p/s and a/cCheers Scott

I vote for what Wagoon sugested leave the car standard put the CD player in the glove box. If you don't want to do that I'm pretty sure you can run car audio off a iPad, ipod, usb not sure how but people are doing it a lot these days

Wow this is one of the best unique cortinas getting around fantastic job mate I may have missed it but how is the water pump set up? and do you have a close up pic of it and the pulleys?

Hey mate thanks for the reply, I have made the sump fit I had to grind down a small section of the casting at the back of the sump to clear the fg windage tray. I have not been out in the garage for a few days, I still need to know if I have to move the dipstick to the front location I have not Measured or dummied up yet and if I do I need to find out how to remove that factory bung used to block it off?

I had the same problem, I never found out what was faulty I ended up just buying a ice ignition kit and my problem was solved.