Mr Polson

I think going for a modern "boss", either with stock clevo iron or alloys is not necessary now, unless you really want the boss look. There are dozens of aftermarket Windsor heads that are equal to or better than any Clevo style head, which make for a tighter and lighter package... and have a huge selection of manifolds to suit.

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Hence slower to rev...... Windsor always rev more freely, than Clevos for this reason.  No reason why (with todays technology) you cant make a Clevo run to 9,000. 
H beam rods, tungsten valves, billet cranks, all available. Now, what to do about the oiling system.. 

 
 
Note: don't worry about the brightness, this could just be potato cam.. 
look at the FOCUS of the light, and the "INTENDED" spread of light.
the geniune ford stuff puts the light where it is needed.. 

doesn't just put out a cloud of garbage light like the others. 

Thx bear and Greg for feedback.Synthetic penrite Ldas is recommended for astra 
surely the xd steering box shouldn’t have issue.?

Hey all!
 
I was wondering where the ECU Temp Sender/Sensor is located in an EFI XF 250 Crossflow.
 
I have an outlet for it in the Thermostat housing, is that’s where it should go?
 
Thanks!
 
 
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Best bet will be to contact Ford with the VIN and prove that you own the car and they should be able to help out

WHAT !!
 

Na...I am not sponsored by REPCO

FL/Headlight can see how much the silver has faded through the len's

After Disassembly i noticed a little bit of moisture on the reflector at the front . gave it a wipe with my finger and it took more silver plating off. (  My fault for not drying out lens properly before i re assembled )

The a light scuff for the paint to apply too.

Masked up and first dust coat applied.

Second dust coat.

Third Light coat.

Fourth is a Wet coat

Fifth and final wet Coat.

Finished  product with the paint and cleaner i used for prep.

Will Get some Night pics, Was surprised to actually see the light beem on the garage wall during the day.
Oh had a little problem getting light's to work after installation.

Forgot to hook them back up to power. ( What a Dickhead )
But in all seriousness , i believe i will buy the aftermarket Light and put these Genuine ford lenses on them.
Had to have a go as it would have eaten at me for not trying.No regret's.

 
at least it LOOKS road worthy..
see what they work like? 
 
i saw someone put mirror finish tape/wrap on some once.. not sure how it lasted

i agree, I've just sprayed CRC/WD40 etc in anywhere you can,.and flick the high beams back and forth 40 times and whatever else is a bit dicky(horn) and it will likely be enough to fix it

X series EFI accelerator cable is a lot shorter than the carby one from memory. Definitely different.

There is a worldwide shortage of copper at the moment, hence prices are through the roof,
and still rising.
The cost of new x-series OEM style copper/brass radiators could soon get expensive,
if you can even find one.
 
My recommendation is to pay the $100-$200 or so, and have your original copper/brass radiator cleaned out/re-soldered.
(unless you can re-solder yourself) ie, preserve it, at all costs.
 
From yrs of reading other peoples experiences,
the aluminum radiators are nowhere near as efficient or long-lasting, as the copper/brass units.
 
edit -
I just checked the Cooldrive Distribution online system - wow...
ZERO radiators available for x-series at the moment.
Not even for XG, XH or EA-EL, for which OEM style is copper core, with plastic end tanks.
There's seriously nothing there...
 
[mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention], can you check with Adrad, and see what their system says?
 

XF had the option of the skinnier radiator, but AC automatically got the wider one, same if the car was optioned with tow pack from new.

You'll need different top hose if going the skinnier one, mounts need to be moved (just change the bolt location, there from factory).
Shroud won't fit the skinnier rad, they only had a guard at the top.

I wonder if DBA, would still entertain a group buy?
I'm not actually sure they even cast the rotors here in Australia anymore?
 

 
yep. the bolt pattern is the same from Kent (my 1300) through to zetec. the block is basically the same block, but alloy, and OHC 
 

I havent really looked into it in depth. 
 
But I would need a sump from the UK, which are expensive, coolant pipe to suit RWD applications, either individual throttle bodies, twin carbies or a forward facing plenum with single throttle body, ECU. 
 
Mark has just done it to his Mk1 panelvan. 
 
Like i said, engine is cheap. but then there is probably upwards of $2k in parts to make it happen 

Sounds like a good outcome all things considered.

It's 15yrs in Tas for the WOVR as well, surprised Vic is 25.

Bonus not having to pay any salvage, although I found Shannon's had very reasonable salvage costs ($500ish for my FG).

What's the timeframe on it being back on the road?

Think XE speedos pulse at 8/sec whereas XF onwards is 10?

I may be wrong about that

That's really shit news mate.

Hope you're alright.

I agree with James, especially this time of year. I avoid driving my older cars a lot of the time just because I'm worried about someone else running into me

Hi Warren,
 
I haven't done a Barra swap, but this is all about calibration, as with the speedo.
 
XE gauges are calibrated to receive signals from XE sender units. Can you fit an XE temp sender unit to the back of a Barra head, with an adapter if necessary (and extend the crossflow loom from the front to the back)? Same with the oil pressure sender unit. Temperature is temperature, pressure is pressure, so the signal coming out of the XE sender unit is understood by the XE gauge. Voltage out of the Barra alternator is voltage, so the XE gauge can understand the output voltage signal.
 
I take it you're running a standard XE dash cluster with an Economy gauge. I believe that gauge runs off a vacuum signal. I suggest you find where the vacuum line taps into the crossflow and replicate it on the Barra.
 
The tacho signal for a Barra is more complicated regarding aftermarket tachometers. Check out:
http://www.thebarraguide.com/tachometer-signal/
I believe you'll need an adapter.
 
Member 'Ants' has a great Barra into XE project, "Sleeping with the fish". The info that you need might all be there.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/6207-decoding-a-falcon-chnvin/

Looks like it's out of a Jan 75 Falcon 500 2 door.

Don't have any in stock to check the bolt size with I'm afraid

That's a Tru-Flow pump which is just reboxed GMB, shows bolts included. If I remember and have time at work tomorrow and if we have a xflow pump on the shelf I can check the bolt size

New pump should've came with new bolts. The original pumps have imperial threads for the belt pulley, replacement pumps have metric thread and should include new metric bolts.

Just out of curiosity what does this PVS actually do, or is it just part of the choke setup.

Also has anyone noticed how difficult it is to fit the thermostat, other cars i have had the thermostat sits in a horizontal housing in a groove so it just sits in place.
The issue i found with the XF is that when you sit the thermostat it in the groove in the housing and tip it up vertical to bolt it onto the engine block is slips out of the groove easily, and you cant put the thermostat in the engine blocl side and offer the housing up to it as there is no groove in the block side for the thermostat to sit in.
 
wondering if there is any trick to it, i was going to loop a piece of string around the thermostat and out thru the hose outlet in the thermostat housing to hold the thermostat in the groove when i offer it up to the block and then once bolted in  place pull the string out thru the hole in the thermostat hosing where the hose fits on
 
thoughts......