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Mr Polson

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Posts posted by Mr Polson

  1. Posted

    Yep, it would be the smart thing to do.
    And let's face it, a stock N/A Barra is going to feel like a race car motor in my old ute 
     
    Oh absolutely. The Barra transformed my Cruiser, and that still weighs 2.5t.

    But the other big advantage to the Barra, is you can tune the stock ECU.
    Pretty sure to do pretty much anything to EEC-IV or V, you need to chip them at minimum.
    motoSycho reacted to this

  4. Posted

    Same ECU coolant sensor for XF right through to EL. AU onwards they changed to the cylinder head temp sensor instead of direct coolant temp.

     

    Also when trying to start it after flooding are you holding foot to the floor? Doing so switches the injectors OFF to clear accidentally flooding from the cylinders

     

     

     

     

    deankxf, Thom and Panko reacted to this

  6. Posted

    Yes, it has to be a mechless unit (no CD/DVD player).

     

    It also has to have an AV input to allow for the heater control function. If your car has factory reverse camera you'll need a head unit with dual AV input, and plug the heater input into the 2nd/front input of the head unit.

     

    You also need to buy a seperate module and external speaker if your car has factory reverse sensors and you want them to continue working with the Aerpro kit.

     

    You shouldn't have any security issues as the car anti-theft is part of the ECU on Falcons, and you reinstall the same module behind the new radio as what was on the old one. It's been designed to be as plug and play as possible, no reprogramming is required. Most you have to do is set up the heater controls correctly.

     

    Aerpro have been working on this kit for a long time, and what they've (finally) brought to market is quite an impressive upgrade to the factory unit, especially as one type fits all, regardless of dual zone/single zone, low, mid or high series.

     

    Aerpro have a YouTube video on how to install and setup

  8. Posted

    yeah they are same enough. some manuals had a heavy ballance weight thing on the end of the yoke near gearbox, i've never used one with it, but [mention=74]Panko[/mention] i think has it or [mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention] 
    i've never had an issue without it, and had T5s in about 6 different cars over the years at least. 
    I think only some T5s had that balance thing.

    I don't have it on mine, no issues at all.
    deankxf, fotz and gerg reacted to this

  11. Posted

    Yeah i have searched high n low for a rebuild kit for these and to no luck. 
    If it was the Holden Glass bowl fuel pump, it wouldn't be a prob, heaps on ebay
    but Ford Glass bowl fuel pumps, bugger just cant get em.
     
    Another question without starting a new thread.....
     
    The Fuel pump gasket on these things on early Falcon engines, you no between the block and the pump,
    why is it like 5mm thick?
    Does it act like a spacer and have less wear on the cam lobe to operate the fuel pump??
    I was going to say Auto Surplus, would've thought you'd know of them through work, we use them all the time for old rarer parts
    IVC434 and steve mcqueen reacted to this

  13. Posted

    Very philosophical question in a way, made me think of the Ship of Theseus, where a ship is repaired over and over again over time until every part has been replaced, is it still the original or now considered a replacement?

    Personally with a car I'd base it on the main middle section, if that's original then you're just doing repairs to the front & back of it.

    omgwizards, bear351c and roKWiz reacted to this

  14. Posted


    thanks jack. 
    since i posted this. I found a vacuum hose had popped off the intake. That made a big difference fixing that. 
     
    rev hang gone, fuel pressure back to normal. 
     
    i then drove it to my partner’s house, and it seemed fine. Drove really nicely. It sat for 4 hours before I left to come home. Again it seemed to be ok. Fired up and ran fine. 
     
    today, after sitting for a week. I went to start it, and it wouldn’t idle. Too low, almost like the ISC wasn’t doing anything. 
     
    i managed to get it to idle by turning the air bypass screw (idle adjustment on XF TB) out, which increases idle speed. Obviously doing this when its cold goes against how I am meant to set idle. 
     
    Once it started warming up, of course the idle was high, about 1000-1100rpm. It stayed up for a bit, my temp gauge on the dash showing normal temp, so figured id pull over and turn the idle down to try set it the correct way. As i pulled over it seemed to settle to normal. 
     
    Do they generally have a “cold start temp” in which at a set coolant temp (different sensor to dash) they come off cold start, hence dropping the idle down, almost like a switch? 
     
    if so, it means all the stuffing about i did initially was before it had come off cold start. 
    so tomorrow ill have to try it again when its dead cold. 
    The coolant temp sensor in the brass fitting off the side of the head is where the ECU gets its coolant temp from, and adjusts idle speed based on that. I don't think it's as simple as fast idle on or off, fast idle should slowly come down as temp goes up.

    E series have that switch in the thermostat housing, and from memory it's the same part number.

  15. Posted

    would the ball joints be ok if theyve been done in last couple years and will it be a problem leaving it for a bit then fix it as many bas are worse and people still drive them, just needto save up to fix it and want to try savea bit extra to get all bushes done
    Depends if they were cheap nasty ball joints or good quality ones.
    For peace of mind I'd check them for movement, they make quite a mess when the fail.

  16. Posted

    What do you recon it’d be 
     
    in service report they found rear upper and lower control arm bushes needed doing at some point
     
    only does it when slowing down and/or braking and is that occasional knock a problem until it’s fixed
    I'd try sway bar mounts first (also called D bushes).

    You'll have to measure your bar to the millimetre before buying new ones, and measure it either where the bush is or right next to it, clean it first or dirt/grease/grime will affect measurement

  18. Posted

    I was looking a site with some useful info on swapping a 5lt windsor and several of the common mistakes made. I am still checking mine and have found three so far. 5lt should have 2 cos sensors and they should be within 3 inches down street of the exhaust collector. Strike 1. The air filter  should not be fitted straight up against the MAF. Strike 2. The throttle body should not have a bend directly (close) before or after it. Strike 3. The alternative location  for the air cleaner is up front left side near the radiator. This requires shrouding the filter. All bullshite or not.? Here hopefully is the thingy to go to. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/25-ford-302-5-0-efi-engine-swap-errors/ 
    For a carby guy struggling to get a handle on some of the efi tech, I found this helpful.
    I think you can ignore anything in that article about computers or sensors if you're planning on converting to carby.

  19. Posted

    [mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention] would repco do a seal kit for these, assume it would be a fuel miser brand if so?
    Not off the shelf, can possibly source one but kits are pretty uncommon now, most people just put new fuel pumps on these days.
    deankxf reacted to this

  20. Posted

     
    Look, the Type 9, is an extremely simple gearbox. it really had me surprised really how simple they are. Initially I was scared to pull it down, but once I had, and working on it, they are so easy. 
     
    As long as you have some equipment. You need a shop press, and thats really about it. otherwise basic hand tools you can strip and build one of these 
    Most gearboxes are relatively simple, but lack of common knowledge seems to be what scares most people.

    Same with autos, they're rather simple in how they work but because it's seen as a specialist thing people avoid them.


    Bet you drove carefully with that glass in the back of the wagon!!
    deankxf reacted to this

  22. Posted

    Not all XG have the flat gasket.
    Mine has the cast in half moons and skinny gasket set up.
    I have a stack of flat rocker cover gaskets here from gasket sets that have the wrong gasket.
    Must be early XG have the flat and late model the skinny moulded one.

    Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

    XG probably changed to the skinny gasket when EF came out at a guess?
    Outback Jack reacted to this

  23. Posted

    Mate it depends on what the EA gasket is like, if it's the same as AU and the bolt holes line up, then the rocker cover should work.
    But if your head is like mine on my ED/XG and has a half moon seal front and back, the rocker cover will only fit that type of head.
     
    Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
     
     
     
     
    EA gasket is like ED/XG, it's the big flat wide one.

    In EF they went to a skinny gasket and shaped the rocker cover to avoid having to use the half moons - basically cast into the rocker cover if that makes sense

  24. Posted

    Get the ECU from the car you get the gearbox from as the ECU is paired to the TCM and from what I've heard it's tricky to try and re-pair them.
    Shifter is different, not sure if it's compatible or not but they are different.

    That's about the extent of my knowledge on it

    Lott reacted to this
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