Jump to content

Mr Polson

Administrators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    8,491

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    52

Posts posted by Mr Polson

  2. Posted

    Not long after I bought my mother an AU I got the gearbox serviced. Apparently the oil that came out was like old diesel engine oil.
    Mechanic was amazed it drove as well as it did.

    Got about another 40,000 from it before the trans died (350,000 all up).

    Put a second hand box in with low 100,000kms, filled with Penrite ATF FS and it's been fine for the 50,000kms or so it's done since.

  5. Posted

    Two of the removeable options were these:
    https://www.bcf.com.au/p/oricom-plug-and-play-5w-uhf310-radio-pack/573880.html
    https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-Ranges-by-Brand-|-Autobarn/Gme/GME-5-Watt-Super-Compact-UHF-CB-Radio---Plug-'n'-Play-Kit---TX3120SPNP/p/ME24221
    Pictures show magnetically-mounted aerial on the roof of the car, mounted from suction cap on the windscreen, powered from cigarette lighter socket.
     
    I'm sure the aerial won't have much coverage, but it will on the top of the car (instead of at the front mounted on the bull-bar) and it's removeable, I can put up with the interior cabling.
     
     
    This is a great idea! A decent aerial is a must for remote driving, but unnecessary for urban trips, and this sounds like an effective compromise. I must investigate this further!
    Aerials actually work best when at the centre of a flat plain - middle of the roof is ideal. It somewhat bounces the signal off the roof of the car.

    Don't be caught out with physically larger meaning better range, with CB it almost all comes down to the dB rating.

    Pretty sure Repco has a sale on UHF this weekend too but not 100% if it includes aerials

  6. Posted

    Sump off in car (XF) - yes.
    Sump REMOVED from car - no.

    I tried with XF once. Could get the sump off the engine. Couldn't get the sump out. Managed to get the oil pickup & pump off and out. Still couldn't get sump out. Even with engine lifted as high as I was willing with hoses, wiring and gearbox attached.

    Could possibly be doable if away bar was removed.

  7. Posted

    There a few units now that don't actually need the unit anywhere visible - the display and info and buttons are all on the mic. But these tend to be at the higher end of the market.

     

    GME is probably the best brand, but Oricom and Uniden are also decent.

     

    When it comes to aerials - taller doesn't mean better reception. Go by the db rating. Lower db has circular reception, higher db it becomes more oval. So for hilly mountainous terrain you want around the 4 to 6 db. Long flat open terrain you want 6 or higher.

     

    You can get magnetic base aerials, that might be best for you in terms of easy removal/storage? Downside is having to run a cord each time.

     

    With the bullbar, I'd be inclined to run a extension cord from the CB to the front. Then have the aerial on a pipe clamp type bracket, which would allow fairly easy removal when not using.

     

     

    thorne and bear351c reacted to this

  8. Posted



     
    68/3.4 = 20L/100km
    This screams 'dead o2 sensor' to me.
     
    XG original Ford o2 sensors were either Bosch or NTK branded.
    Around town, an OHC powered Falcon should return about 12-13L/100km
     
    Coolant in the exhaust will kill an o2 sensor, new or old.
     
    For fuel efficiency, the OHC engine ECU's monitor at o2, MAP sensor, TPS, and coolant temperature
     
    Start with a new o2 sensor,  (use NTK or Bosch brand only)
    plus check for the correct coolant temperature (cold will run rich).
    Factory thermostat is 92degrees.
     
    Then if it still needs improvement, get the injectors serviced,
    and/or fit a new MAP sensor.
     
    Aim for around 12-13L/100km around town, and 10-11L/100km freeway driving.
     
     



    Don't use Bosch. Modern Bosch parts are shit quality, made cheap, and have enormous failure rates. They are nowhere near the company they used to be.

    With thermostat, if not on gas check it's the correct "foot" type one - these block the bypass when the engine gets to temp. I think DT18F is the part number off the top of my head.
    SPArKy_Dave and gerg reacted to this

  9. Posted

    Hey deankdx, you seem like a knowledgeable person so I might pick your brain a minute...

    The drivers side floor pan is badly rusted (plenum chamber leak) and I’m having a bit of trouble finding a suitable cut via the usual channels... from what I can tell from research and photos, the floor pattern is pretty different between early XF and late XF/G and Rare Spares etc don’t carry the later pattern. Is this correct? Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Correct, the floors are quite different.

    I have an XF wagon and a late XF ute, when you look at one to the other it's quite different in lots of little ways.

    I think from about where the accelerator pedal mounts all the way down to the rear firewall was different, because Ford were producing the EA/EB at the same time as the XF utes and vans they made parts similar where possible.

  11. Posted

    And then there was two!
     
     
     
    hzM6fCb.jpg
     
    aScQFeg.jpg

    lfhHE7U.jpg
     
    bVVW5rj.jpg
     
     
    They still need adjustment to get them sitting the same, but I have finished bending the brackets. 
     
    the driver’s side as a whole needs to be lowered slightly, and the passenger side just needs the corner raised a tad. Otherwise im glad this is done. What a nightmare its been 
    My first thought was, he got another Escort?
    deankxf and Fingers reacted to this

  12. Posted

    Gooday to Everybody and I hope you are all Travelling Pretty Well. Now I'm about to Buy some Head Bolts for a sohc 4.0 and I see on E-Bay the prices can Vary from $40 to $110 before you go to ARP  Hi-Dollar stuff. Are they all the same? The MACE Engineering look better and come with a washer. And maybe they are made in Australia. I did read in a Ford magazine about a Jim Mock sohc rebuild and he said that you can use 2nd hand head bolts as long as they are in good condition!  I don't wanna stuff this up on Experiments.I bought a Enduro Tech head gasket kit that does'nt come with the Bolts Again any Advice or Opinions or Experience is Appreciated and I won't be Offended. Have a Great Nite.
    Do NOT use second hand head bolts in a 4.0L

    They are Torque to Yield, when you tighten them they are literally tightened until they are at stretching point.
    Rule of thumb is any head bolt that is tightened to a degree setting instead of nM/ft lb should be replaced.

    Most gasket manufacturers recommend new head bolts when replacing a head gasket regardless as well.
    gerg and Thom reacted to this

  14. Posted

    XF and XG should be the same radiator, as it's the same front end.
    E series are the rounded front end that came out later on the xh, so you will probably find they are the interchangeable ones for straight bolt in.

    Sent from my motorola edge 20 pro using Tapatalk


    Far from it.
    Xflow top hose goes to driver's side, lower hose to passenger.
    4.0 OHC are opposite way around.

    Plus there's the extra hose on an XG radiator for the expansion tank inlet

  19. Posted

    Should I grab the thermo fans as well?

    I think EF/EL fans on a XG radiator is the way to go? Or just aftermarket fans.

     

    Xflow radiator will have the hose inlet/outlet on the wrong sides. XG radiators are rare I believe but might bolt straight into XF (I'm pretty sure) and have the hoses in the right spots, and the outlet for the overflow bottle.

     

     

     

    Outback Jack reacted to this

  23. Posted



     
    Thanks man, yeah I'll start collecting the bits I need, and talk to as many people as I can about it before I do the swap.
     
    I'm looking at a motor on Thursday. It is still in the car, so I can hear it running. If it is all good I'll head back down on Sunday to pull it out.
     
    Pretty comfortable pulling crossflows out, never removed a Barra before. I imagine there is a lot more wiring to come out.
     
    What should I make sure I pull out with it?


    Pretty much all the engine wiring except the alternator and starter connects to the ECU with two big plugs. Once undone all the wiring comes with the engine.

    The ECU is riveted to the shock tower and is a giant pain to drill out. Then you'll want to cut the wires from the ECU as far back near the firewall as possible.
    motoSycho reacted to this

  24. Posted

    Good old Ford, they do like to reuse bits from past models
     
    I thought it sounded pretty good. For $400 with all its bits I reckon I'll grab it. Start collecting the bits to get it in then.
     
    They annoyingly changed oil filters for BF onwards, Z516 instead of Z9.
    Guess they thought they should finally use a metric threaded filter.

  25. Posted

    250000 too many ks on a BF motor?
    Just ran in.

    BF is probably the pick of them for swapping into an earlier Falcon. FG onwards get a bit complicated with the rear sump & dipstick etc.

    I'd pull the sump and timing cover, clean them and reseal them. They basically leap from new around there, so 250,000kms wouldn't help that. Gives you a good chance to see the inside of the engine too.

    Good time to paint the rusty block too

    If you've got a spare rear main seal from a late xflow it'll fit the Barra. Same goes for the crank bearings.
    motoSycho reacted to this
×