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Mr Polson

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Posts posted by Mr Polson

  1. Posted

    TPS adjustment

     

    What is needed?

    - Phillips head screwdriver

    - small straight pin(s)

    - Digital multimeter

     

     

     

    How to do it

    The TPS basically bolts to the throttle body with two screws. The holes that the screws go through on the TPS are elongated so you can twist the TPS in either direction to adjust it. To adjust the TPS all you have to do is loosen (don't take them out) both screws and move the TPS until you see the right voltage.

     

    To hook the multimeter up you will have to pierce the green wire with a pin so you can check how much voltage is going through it. The red or positive (+) wire on your multimeter will go to the pin in the green wire. Then you'll have to either pierce the black wire and put the negative wire from the multimeter to it, or just put the black multimeter wire to a good engine ground.

    Now to check the voltage turn on your multimeter and make sure all of the wires are hooked up right. Then turn the ignition key to the on position, but don't start the car. You should be getting a reading on your multimeter. It should be .98-.99 volts, but anything above .90 and below 1.0 volts should work.

    If its not, then its time to loosen the screws on the TPS and move it around until you get it right. When its at the right voltage tighten the screws and re-check it.

    If for some reason you cannot get the voltage reading right you have two options. Either buy a new TPS or take off the old one and elongate the holes a little more with a file or a dremel.

     

    Fuel injectors - we mistakenly put the 24lbs ones in this engine when we rebuilt it

    Resulted in hard to start and extremely rich running, to the point of becoming undrivable.

    Put the original ones back in and all was good.

     

     

    SPArKy_Dave reacted to this

  2. Posted

    Recently went through a drama with a mate where his ED 5L wouldn't start unless you used Engine Start. Once started it was mostly fine.

    Turned out to be poorly adjusted throttle position sensors making it think the throttle was wide open when cranking (which kills injector pulse)

  3. Posted

    Pretty sure the BW40 was introduced in XE when they switched to the EFI 6 instead of the V8.

    Use whatever fluid is recommended for the box that it has.
    Dex3 is not a GM Product, it may have originally been a GM specification but Ford have definitely recommended it too.

    I personally use Penrite ATF FS in my BW40, seems to shift smoother and stay clean longer.

    SPArKy_Dave reacted to this

  4. Posted

    I assume a 3.46 or 3.27 will be best for a 6spd auto.

    Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk


    Depends what you mean by "best".

    Late model Falcons with the ZF6 had 2.72 diff ratio, unless it was a XR6/XR8 etc.

    Tyre size will also contribute - my LandCruiser with the Barra and ZF6 has 4.11 diffs, but that combined with the 33" tyres means it sits at 2k rpm at 100km/h.
    gerg and BTS666 reacted to this

  5. Posted




    He recommended;
    - put an 82 degree thermostat in it (as I will be running air con),
    - use a 13lb cap, and
    - use coolant at 20% concentration.
     


    Interesting recommendations.
    Ford didn't have different thermostats for AC vs non AC, both just used 89° thermostats.
    My experience with 82° ones - which most aftermarket ones listed for xflows are - is it makes them run at ¼ or less, which seems quite cold.

    13psi cap is less than factory as well. Iron heads run 13psi but alloy head were 16psi.

    No point putting coolant in at 20%, it's a waste of money. 33% is the minimum for coolant to be effective. Unless he meant corrosion inhibitor, which people often use interchangeably although it's a completely different product.

    Not saying his recommendations aren't worth considering, did he give any reasoning behind them?

  7. Posted

    EB seats will bolt straight in apparently, these are you for 250 near me. Won't look out of place either.
    Screenshot_20230430-101209.png.7a939e1007d0793f8692329fd66587a2.png
    No they won't.

    As Dean said they'd fit 88 onwards XF ute or van, which bolt in from inside the car.
    Anything 87 or earlier, has nuts that go on the sealt bolts, from under the car.

    And no, the seats won't bolt directly to the early rails and work - without modification.
    From memory (been a long time) you can enlarge the holes in the seat rails and bolt the seats to it, but they'll have a lot less range of back/forward movement because they'll end up slightly angled inwards/outwards.
    Nath reacted to this

  8. Posted

    Will check that out. My son works for repco, who now own rsre spares, so I'll get it for employees cost.

    Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

    Better off getting Repco to get them direct from Autotechnica
    Less companies adding their price on that way
    BTS666 reacted to this

  9. Posted

    Hey guys,
    Working on a barra swapped Xf
    I'm going to use an external inline fuel pump - the EFI fuel tanks seem to be pretty rare to find
    Has anyone used an external pump with the carb tank and where did you mount it?
    Is it as simple as plumbing the pump to the fuel delivery line - Does it use siphon and gravity to feed the pump?
    Thanks!
    I have a Barra swapped LandCruiser, it has two fuel tanks. The main tank has an internal pump, but the sub tank just has an external inline pump and it works with no issues. I believe it's a more off the shelf version of a Bosch 044.

    Haven't had any issues with it, I think once fuel is sucked into the house and pump as long as you don't let it get dry you'd be fine. Even if it does go dry I'd guess it sucks it back up when refilled, but fuel flow is what lubricates electric pumps.
    SydSpring reacted to this

  12. Posted

    i do them sitting in the seat. i feel around , put the screw driver to them and unscrew them without looking. 
    had many XF XGs without those 2 screws fitted lol. i've put em back because i hate rattles etc. 
     
    i think the reason I know so much about X series is because of all the problems i've had with them owning as daily's for 20yrs + 
     
    TIP OF THE DAY now, don't assemble it fully until you check the odo works. (90% of them these days the gear will be stuffed (if it doesn't bother you, just assemble it.) low kms for ever.. (kind of a prick of a job to replace, but possible still)
     
    DO YOU HAVE the correct oil sender for the sports cluster? EA EB ED will be same (sports/XR6/ghia etc) EF EL will work but may read higher or lower (i have used one on My XF once) 
    pretty sure the XD XE XF one will read very low or very high though 
     
    currently it just is an off /on switch for the oil light
    Should be same sender for X series and EA-ED.
    VDO list the same part number for them.
    EF/EL were a different sender.
    deankxf reacted to this

  13. Posted

    Hard to see in the pictures, but see the twin shock absorbers in the front?

    Apparently that was introduced when Broncos were imported to Australia, because they struggled on our gravel roads of the time without the twin shock setup.63cfdd99aa62162e8f80c594bbeafb64.jpg

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  14. Posted

    When I swapped all the Ghia stuff onto my (XF) wagon, I had to swap over the AC, as it was built without it.

    Did include dash out to swap the heater box to include the AC evaporator core.

    The hoses were pretty straight forward.
    From memory the alternator bracket is different if you have AC (on XF anyway).

    I got one of the last new condensers that Repco had in stock - think that included the receiver drier.
    By some miracle, when they gassed it up there was no leaks (didn't use new O rings anywhere ) and 5 or so years later it's still holding gas and cold.

    I can't really help with price as I had everything but the condenser, and the condenser was on clearance for $10 when I bought it.

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

    SPArKy_Dave reacted to this

  16. Posted

    If you take a look at your wagon, the hoses come out on the side of the tank, they have a small metal shield covering them from memory until they go around to the 2nd pump.

    I imagine the hose would be pretty tough, but better safe than sorry.

    Going to be ready for AFD in a month?

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

  20. Posted

    Yeah older guy. Been with Ford as long as I've been dealing with them plus probably another 50 years.

    I think it was around $120? I may even have the part number somewhere ..


    Found it. FAU217B353A
    $120 was trade price too.

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

  21. Posted

    If you are talking about the speedo sender. They are same from XF to at least EL and probably AU.. there'd be no problem finding a  used one.
    New not sure. I might look on ebay out of interest 
    Same from XF to AU.
    I got a grenuine one from Ford within the last 12 months for my wagon, was on the shelf at the local Ford dealer with an AU part number.

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

    deankxf reacted to this

  23. Posted

    Polished the chinesium light covers on my Marsbar last year, need doing again. Mothers polish and a drill, 20 minutes later.....
     
    50082213346_5715040cf3_b.jpg  
    50082455732_d3d2815901_b.jpg  
     
    Yeah..........I know.!  Not a cool car. But the ones in the XB, just get chucked in the bin, and new ones fitted. Jobs done. LOL.
    The biggest thing with polycarbonate lenses, is they need a UV sealant/coating over the top again. Just polishing, and they're guaranteed to go yellow again.

    Headlight protectors also help prevent the yellowing, as they absorb the UV instead of the headlight.

    Of all the cars that have polycarbonate headlights (which is all of them now), Kia and Hyundai seem to be the best for not yellowing. Surprised the rest of the automotive market hasn't figured that out...

    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

  25. Posted




     
    The 'hard bit:
    The head unit needs power from the amp in order for the head unit to turn on.  The amplifier also needs power from the head unit for it to turn it on.  I'm not sure if these triggers are supposed to be 12v or a reduced voltage (this question will become clearer later). 
     


    I've had mine in and working for a few years now. I ended up getting my head unit and amp overhauled by a guy in Melbourne for very reasonable price.

    In the end I was under the impression the amp provides power to the head unit, no power goes directly to the head unit from the dash wiring.


    Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

    Odie reacted to this
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