Mr Polson

Nah neither of those pictures above show the TPS. It's on the firewall side of the carby, with a wire attached, leading to a connector. I could get a photo tonight if need be.

Really? Mine does. But there are two different part numbers for the XF manuals, one for first release, and an updated version that included unleaded models.

Yep, TPS on XF EST was just a wire that lets the computer know if the throttle was on or off. I ran my ute for years without one, with no issues. I think the more important thing for the EST is the coolant temp sensor as it changes the timing as the motor warms up from memory.

It's more a matter of being able to find a kit even if you wanted to rebuild it. I've tried to find Holden 6 fuel pump kits before for customers at work, because originally they almost all had glass fuel bowls on the top, most aftermarket replacements don't so some people still want kits to keep them looking original. Near on impossible to find. Can't say I've tried for a Falcon one but I reckon they'd be just as difficult if not more

Hardly worth the hassle of even attempting to find rebuild kits for mechanical pumps these days

I ran DBA slotted (T2s) on the front of my FG with no issues. Never got the brake shudder back that the late model Falcons are prone to.

FGs are prone to having a bad idler pulley on the front of the motor, between the power steer and AC. Easy replacement, belt off and one bolt (it's not part of the tensioner like the SOHC 4.0) from memory. Also, any reason you went up to 10W-40 oil? My FG had about the same KMs on it (115k KMs) and I was still running 5W-30 with no issues.

It's not on or been on gas has it? That caught me out when I swapped my red wagon from carby to EFI, the EFI loom used to have LPG, and had been wired so that when petrol was switched off injector pulse was cut. Took me ages to figure it out.

I don't know enough about E series to know if they work this way, but most injected vehicles turn the injectors off when coasting/decelerating, increasing economy and engine braking. If the auto isn't engine braking, and instead idling, that would be using fuel that's normally being saved. So might contribute? I wouldn't think it would cause 20L/100, that's worse than my carby 80 series [emoji44]

I've also heard it's a worn out clutch pack when the BTR looses engine braking. Bet it makes the car go through brakes quicker

Gas charged, and painted black. That's about all I can really say with certainty. https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/steering-suspension/shocks-struts-mounting/repco-shock-absorber-rsa-1012/p/A9400383

Another good reason to shop local and support brick and motor stores... For anyone who might not know, Repco shocks are made by Monroe just with a Repco sticker and better shelf price [emoji6]

Repco doesn't stock Protex. We sell TRW.

A lot of Penrite oils actually don't meet modern oil specs because of their high zinc levels, the bottles do state this in the writing on the back, something like: "Rated at SL spec due to high zinc levels, but provides full protection equivalent of SN spec"

About 10L if it's got the AC (wider) radiator.

Worst part is getting your hand in there, especially if it's an outer globe. May be easier to remove battery (driver side) or airbox (passenger side) depending on the size of your hands. Then as said, rubber boot off, squeeze connector with hands and it'll come off, could be stuck on if hasn't been out for a while. To remove the globe theres a metal spring clip that unclips. Remember when installing the new globe not to touch the glass with your fingers or it'll blow way quicker than you want.

I've got a Nolathane one in my wagon with no issues so far. And if it does have any issues, Nolathane have a lifetime warranty. I tried to source an OEM one for the ute when I replaced the box in that and had absolutely no luck at all.

https://carboncarsystems.com.au/shop/complete-stereo-solutions/kayhan-ford-falcon-ba-bf-stereo-upgrade/

Steering box - they can be adjusted and tightened up, there's a nut/screw on the top of that which allows for adjustment. Is it loose in straight ahead/just as you turn position? Or the whole way through the turning? A manual box will wear out in the straight ahead position the quickest. As Dean said, I just had mine replaced in my XF, with a reco exchange unit through Repco. Worth doing the Pitman Arm if you replace the box. Also check the condition of the flexible coupling that connects the steering box to the column. If it needs replacing I'd try to track down an original type, not urethane for manual steer. Front end - have a look at your tie rods, ball joints and bushes. If the ball joints are riveted into the upper and lower control arms they're original, and probably due for replacement. Have fun getting the rivets out. Tie rods, if they're worn replace them, and make sure you get decent ones - ask Dean about his incident with eBay ones. I recommend WASP ball joints/tie rods. Bushes - you should be able to see how stuffed they are. Few cracks in them doesn't mean they're stuffed but if they're missing any chunks I'd be replacing. Particularly your lower inner control arm bushes - they control camber, and the radius rod bushes under the front radiator support. I've got a full Nolathane front end under both my XFs and have had no issues. They also now do a "classic" bush which is black instead of the normal red, which looks more original. Lowering - my XF ute is lowered 2.5" with Kings in the front and blocks in the back. My wagon is lowered 1.5" with Pedders front and blocks in back. 2.5 looks good but is definitely bumpier on the road and will need shortened shocks and short/cut bump stops. 1.5 retains a lot of road comfort, doesn't need shortened bump stops - is on the limit for shortened shocks (I have them). Make sure you get a wheel alignment after lowering if you do.

Dean beat me to it, but yeah should be easy as. Almost all Falcons have had H4 (or sealed Beam) as their main headlight, including XD/E/F. XF had H4 (which does high and low beam), as well as a H3 for just high beam. All you'll be doing is bypassing/ignoring/deleting the H3 because the H4 will work the same way.

Sounds like the pulse air injection, puts fresh air into the exhaust to make it seem as though it runs cleaner, the plastic things are valves that prevent the exhaust gases entering the air cleaner if I remember correctly.

Definitely run ATF. Some places recommend gear oil but it's too thick for T5s and makes them feel a lot harder to shift. Penrite also do an additive for manual box's, specifically designed for Ford and Holden 5 speeds of the 90s, and any other box that runs ATF Can find it on the shelf of most Repcos, maybe elsewhere. https://penriteoil.com.au/products/penrite-4297-transmission-additive#/

Curious about just how you figured out the speed at which the trims will come off... And yes. As Dean and Thom said XD/E/F/G ute rear window trims bolt in. Headlining has to be dropped for most of the top piece bolts to be undone.

My ute used to hit flashing red bars whenever it was warm and the oil was half or lower on the "OK" bit of the dipstick. Motor never really sounded noisy. I did check it once with a pressure gauge and it was fine and within specs. That was when I decided the gauges on the digital cluster are very much indicators rather than super accurate.

Is it a digital XF cluster you're referring to? If it's a freshly built xflow I would've gone a 15W-40 or 15W-60 (Ford recommended 15W-40 when they were new). In saying that I've ran 20W-60 in my wagon with no issue since I had it and that had only 120,000kms when I got it