Mr Polson

Idler arm is good, steering coupling is good (I think, its flat). Pitman arm was good 6 months ago but I'll double check it. How do I check the steering.box and what is/how do I check the drag link? Yes camber will be done soon, I may as well fully rebuild the UCA while I'm at it, which doesn't come cheap. Plus I use Nolathane for everything I can, so much better handling!!

My camber isn't set properly - bushes in the UCA are stuffed, have been since.I got it. That may explain the screech but not the steering.issue, as that only started recently. Which bolts / nuts do I check for looseness?

Oh, and its manual steering.

Late XFs had N as an engine code, 4.1 Alloy Head, think it may designate the unleaded models. And Trim code T4 is for XF commercials (from EA era) and is brown from what I've been able to gather.

On XFs, Z = Stark White That's the only one I know of.

A GT is a V8, therefore if it has a twin pipe system then realistically it's only 4cyl per pipe, rather than 6 or 8.

Description says it suits all manifold/carbs, even says something about Weber's if you're still running original carb.

^that seems like good solid advice to me, that's how I'd go about building a motor that was/is already in the car.

Nova, your video doesn't do NOTAV8 justice! I think it sounds so much better in person!!

This is exactly what I wante to know - ill give it a go tomorrow. I don't have power steering so no whine, but I feel every little bump in the road as the wheels hit it and try to turn the coupling and not the wheel, if that makes sense.

Firstly, posting this in here as there is no steering section. When.I changed my XF from three on the tree to T5, I swapped to a ZL column so I'd have adjustable column. However I've got manual steering, and I haven't been able to figure out how to adjust the column length wise to match up to the steering box and be right inside the cab. The flexible coupling is mostly flat, but the steering wheel is too close to the dash, and I can't get my trim surround on. Is there a special trick to get the column to the right length?

Okay, let me try again... It was taken with a phone camera so it's pretty average...

Yep, I did. So do I pull the column out and bash the flange outwards with a hammer, or what? I know I have to lengthen it, just not sure how.

No name extractors, 2.5" all the way, Lukey muffler. No cat. http://www.youtube.com/index?client=mv-google&rdm=mjnuxj4ue Let me know if link doesn't work and I'll fix it tonight.

Ask an auto sparky?

I would assume it runs into the dash wiring and earths via that...

Try changing the plugs for the brake switch around, one runs to the cruise control loom the other the the brake switch, swapping then might help.

I cut mine roughly in half with a hacksaw, haven't had any issues yet. Pics are in either page three or four of my thread.

Or EFI rocker cover with no gasket, just a decent amount of silicone.

Dunno then mate, you've exhausted my electrical knowledge

Try this, to fix the A/C issue... Don't expect the fuel estimate to be accurate from what I've heard... Mine is trip comp with carby motor and it tends to over estimate massively (example, says I can do 873km on a full tank, every time I fill up). Love to see a carby XF do that on 68L of 91. Bright side is I never get the low fuel warning/beep.

Bolts on I think, wiring for headlights will be different. Think you'll have to do something to make the bumper bolt up, I might be wrong. This is going off stuff I've read elsewhere.