Mr Polson

I'd buy one haha Just to save me having to polish one myself! Good thing I read this thread, otherwise I would've brought a chrome one!

Radiator, definitely, fan I'm not too sure about, but Gregory manual says yes.

Well ZK fits onto ZL alright, so it should work in reverse?

Bellhousing, pedal box, hole in the floor may need to be bigger, and you need a spigot bearing I believe? Probably also a good time to change the rear main if its leaky. It's not a hard conversion (well 3sp manual XF to T5 wasn't), and it's well worth it!! At least you don't have to try and search around for a xflow T5 bellhousing

Leaf spring pads are the same from 66-13... And I think the rear shackles for leaves are as well. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Not sure if they also fit straight up, but ask about XH ones? From what I've seen XHs seem to better looked after than XF and XG... Watching people struggle to find a decent tailgate for Falcon utes makes me so glad mine had a straight one on it when I got it... Probably because it didn't have a towbar fitted.

That sounds beasty as Thom!!

Give me a couple of months (possibly years) and I'll post mine up... Reason being that I have to build it first.

I'm not sure, but I think you can get injectors from newer models and they fit in, up to like BA? Don't take my word on it, as I'm yet to own a fuel injected Falcon...

I don't think either of them of do, I think the one on there now is an early XF and this is a late one. I'll check though. I was going to mix the two together if I have to, the one on there at the moment doesn't have that pipe thing in the top of the secondary.

Trust me man, use good paint even if you have to wait and save for a while... I done one of the guards on my daily with cheapo paint, and cheapo bog under the paint... Big mistake. It was all done properly at my school, with the help of one of the teachers who is a professional painter and knows his stuff... He painted his EH himself and it looks fantastic!! Anyway this is what the guard looked like when we done it: Came up good hey? Yeah thats what we thought... It hasn't even been a year and the paint has gone to shit, cracks (thats due to the crappy bog underneath), crows feet, heaps of other imperfections all through it... I'd take a pic but the car isn't here. Around the same time a friend done the bonnet on his car using better paint (same stuff I got from autobarn and used on my ute), he done the same process as me, but no bog (spent hours getting it straight), and better paint, his still looks as good as new.

Don't think so, column vs floor makes no difference to length of column, wheel splines, or anything else that I could tell when I swapped from column manual to floor shift and ZL column.

Thanks Gerg, that info should help regardless of whether I stay 302 or go 351 No matter which one I go I'm still going to have to choose a cam (yes I know the choice will depend on cubes), the problem I face is I don't understand all the different specs of a cam and how they work together. I know the basics, like lift is how high it lifts the lifter/pushrod thus opening the valve further, and duration is how long it's open/lifting whatever, and overlap is to do with how long both valves are open. But can someone explain how exactly it all works together and what to look for/how to decide on a cam?

You sure your horn works properly? Mine was loud stock, then I stuck another one to make it Fairlane spec!! It's deep and loud, no way you can miss it!

My local Autobarn mixes paint up on the spot, a litre of BA/BF Blueprint cost me $110 and that's the most expensive grade you can get (they have three grades of paint depending on colours, metallic, pearls etc)

The issue is finding a 51 crank and rods that are standard size and in good nick, might be easy up on the mainland but its a bit harder down here. I want to build the whole motor before it goes in, no rush to do anything, once its in the car I want it staying in and staying together. I need a manifold and dizzy because I don't have either, I'm NOT going to go and buy stock parts and then replace them later. I'm not stressed about making large amounts of power, its mainly going to be a weekend cruiser, not a drag racer.

Its easier with the column out, keep the wheel on it, put the wheel on the ground, stand on it, and using a hammer tap the flange that bolts to the steering coupling upwards.

Its a good thing we keep track of this stuff... Here's the letter I got from Ford when I contacted them They know sweet stuff all about the vehicle which they built!!

I am beginning to believe that belief!! A mate of mine has discovered that their bog is also crap!

You should be fine without the converter/dissolver stuff, as long as you W/G remove it (as hendrix said), and get at least primer on it soon, and then paint ASAP. If you get rust converter/dissolver I recommend NOT using Motorspray brand, their rust remover/treatment product is crap!! I bought one only the other day that is working more than 10x better, can't remember the brand though!!

I have this strange steering issue with my XF. I'll be driving along, turning a corner (flowing corners not city streets), occasionally if there is a bump/dip the wheels will actually jerk left or right, then when I go straight I have to hold the wheel at an angle. Then next corner with a bump it'll fix itself. Hope that makes sense. I thought it may have been my flexible/cloth coupling being slightly stretched, but fixed that and its all good. It also screeches the tyres at large roundabouts and similar corners, wondering if that is an indication of my toe being wrong? And before anyone suggests ball joints or tie rod ends, they're all good.

I'd be willing to buy it just as a spare, I'd pay postage. Bushes will be replaced, I was wondering if there is anything else that could cause it. I plan to do a FULL suspension rebuild, one bit at a time, and I want to replace stuff in order or urgency.

Well mines not noisy, I hope the steering box is fine!! Manual steering boxes are somewhat hard to find down here.

Don't they have to be pressed in anyway? Pretty sure I can have mine fitted by local suspension place for only like $50. Its fine where it mounts, one thing I did notice about the shaft is it has some slack/freeplay, not sure if thats a bad thing or if they were meant to have it?

Is the drag link what connects the tie rod ends? If so then I'm pretty sure its fine. I don't need UBJ as I replaced them for rego 7 months ago, its more the bushes and then having them pressed in and then getting another wheel alignment, it doesn't help that the ute is pretty much a daily for now as my proper daily also needs major suspension work (its 400,000km old, and stock), so I also need the time to pull out the UCA to take them in. The camber isn't too much of an issue right now, its more the funny steering thing it does. Could the column be an issue? I changed to an adjustable column from a Fairlane when I changed to T5, but I can't remember if the steering issue started when I put the new column in or before that.