Mr Polson

I think it's locked up, I tried spinning it before pulling it off and it was hard to spin, a lot of resistance. And it didn't go away. Now to just figure out how to fit the thermos (they're 94DA, so EF I think??) Normally you have to cut the fan thread from the water pump, correct?

Actually I didn't think of that first... o.O my old glove box is somewhere... Not shy revhead, just seeing If there were alternative methods out there!

By my calculations if you used flat top pistons in a 351 with closed chamber heads comp ratio would be around 13? not sure though... same method got a result of 11 for a 351 with open chamber heads... Nah not after a purpose built racer, just a tough cruiser that can still pull off the line.

Pretty decent fuel saving then! I know someone selling a set of thermos, not sure if they're EF or EL, shouldn't be too hard to suss out though. I was thinking a sensor on the thermostat housing wouldn't exactly be neat, yes it's look factory but not be neat. Majority of the time simpler is better than sophisticated.

As said, doesn't matter, all e-series motors have same bellhousing pattern, and all T5s are the same (well I think theres a few different ratios but that doesnt matter)! All you'll have to hunt down if you get the EA will be a pedal box.

If its from a 91 model then the dizzy is the est type, better off finding a vac advance one from a xe or early (non unleaded) xf. Unless you want to stuff around adding the ecu for the spark timing of the late mdoel xf dizzy that is.

I doubt clear would stick to it properly... I've never cleaned the glovebox, so god knows whats on the surface... Only problem with keeping it out of the ute is that its probably more likely to be broken in the house than it is in the car...

Makes sense now that I know what the numbers mean! Would I need two speeds though? Would've thought one would suffice. For the xflow at least.

Its not keeping it cool all the time, as I said heavy traffic and or long steep hills the temp starts bumping up... Wouldn't want to get caught in a big long traffic jam... I know where I can get a set of thermos from, I just have to sort the wiring side...

Mine definitely USED to work, you'd hear, see and feel it kick in if you were doing anything under the bonnet with the motor running... Never has been that loud but its a metal one (only AC had the plastic), and the metal ones are definitely quieter than the plastic ones... Another downside to the spare clutch fan, its plastic I think...

Maybe I have an XE styled thermostat housing?? Four wires... My speakers have four wires and yet I managed to wire them up back the front... What do all the numbers mean? As in 30, 87, 85 and 86? Its stuffed? I like everything in working order, plus I have noticed the gauge go up a few bars higher when in heavy traffic or up a long hill... I do also occasionally tow stuff so cooling is important there. I have a spare but I'd have to go get it, and try and take it off, and I'm not actually sure if it works... I have friends who are good with wiring, I'll just bribe them to do it Plus it'll need thermos eventually when I put the Clevo in it, may as well bite the bullet and have them working well in advance.

Yeah plastic would be fine, guessing you find them on eBay

Yeah factory styled switch would be a lot better looking. I'd imagine different speeds would be ran by the ECU anyway. Yeah no AC to worry about in the ute.

Wiring is complicated, and it's quite easy to get wrong, and can be very tedious to track problems... That said thinking about it, adding parts in isn't too hard or anything, its more wiring faults that make me go urgh. EL ones are the way to go yeah? I thought fans were more complicated, although I suppose the switch would take care of adding the power and everything at the right temps? There is a spot on the thermostat housing where some models had vacuum lines and stuff coming from it. That's in front of the thermostat though, would that matter? I think it depends on the fans as to if there is room for the thread from the pump to be untouched.

So whats involved in switching to thermos then?

Thermos involves wiring... Wiring is not something I'm a fan of/good at... Thinking it would be easier to put on my spare clutch fan...

I bought mine from autobarn, for an even better finish buy the deoxidiser and use that, then polish. Before: After (just normal polish):

Watched.it for a good ten minutes and it didn't speed up or slow down... After a drive that was.

I use purple polish and it works a treat!!

You can get shiny oil pressure senders?? Haha. Are Clevo ones the same as xflow or are they different? To avoid future confusion Mark, you have a pressure switch for an oil light, or if its got an oil gauge, then you'd need a pressure sender. At least i think that's the right terminology.

That does sound like a pretty good combo Thom, and that's a nice amount of torque! As I said in my first post I'd like it to be able to be driven daily if the need arises, and I do live in the city so it has to be decent to drive at low speeds/city/peak hour. (Not that Tassies peak hour compares to the mainlands).

So they had it in xe but not xf? I'm only guessing but probably around 7-10L, says in the XF manual that once the needle gets to the red there is approx 7L left.

Why solid cam? I was planning on staying hydraulic. I'm not overly worried about high it can rev (my xflow has only gone higher than 4k once haha). More after a cruiser that can beat most cars off the line. 11 won't be too high will it? I'd like to run it on 95 rather than 98, not due to cost but availability in some places of Tassie.

XFs have a low fuel warning light?

Forgot to reply to this!! Thanks for the detailed posts gerg, think I'm starting to understand it now! All you earlier posters will be happy to know I've found a set of 351 crank and rods... Just have to actually buy them (have some other things to come first). So, anything I should do to the bottom end once I get it? Will it be right to just use crank rods and pistons as they are, or is there stuff I should do to them? What sort of CR will I have with 351 crank/rods and 2V closed chamber heads? According to uniquecarsandparts.com.au a 351 XB (its an XB motor) put out 260bhp... I reckon I'd be more than happy with anywhere between 300-400hp.