Mr Polson

Eeek I hope not... That would be dash out to try and fix... I can't hear any vacuum leaks (ute got one when I first put Ghia dash in and it was clearly auidable). Just being in Tassie in general you need the heater!! Wait, so when the valve is up, the heater tap is open? That means it a different issue somehow? So pushing the valve thing down closes the heater tap? Why does that make my heater work then?

I never removed that plate to get my springs in or out... That's in two XF utes (one swapping springs and one just removing). Using the external type compressors too (not internal ones)

I have a handbrake issue in my ute, its been present ever since I got it, and I'm yet to figure it out... If I park in the position the below photos show, my handbrake works fine. About three/four clicks and I won't roll anywhere. If I'm parked the opposite way (pointing uphill), the handbrake doesn't work. At all. Even when pulled as far out as it'll go. If I go to the top of my driveway (you can sort of see in pics, its still a hill just not as steep), the handbrake will hold it if pulled all the way out, but let it back two clicks and it will begin to roll backwards. The shoes are good (standard drums on the back), the drums are fairly good (slightly out of round). Is it an adjustment issue somewhere, something not right in the drums, or something else? Oh and it seems to be common amongst XF utes, one of the parts ones I had did the same thing.

Yeah it'll weigh the same, but weight displacement will be different.

Guess there is no way around it then, could also explain why it seems to only be ute related.

That makes sense! Is it the actual reason?

200mm down, 150mm across, and 205mm long. Thats all internal measurements, I can grab some more detailed ones tomorrow when its A.) light, and B.) not freezing outside.

I have two Weber carbs, which I plan to use both of to build into one good one to put my XF (stock 4.1). Have noticed a couple of differences. One has a red cable coming off near the throttle, is this the TPS that later models with elec spark timing are meant to have? (My current carb doesn't have this but I've got EST). Guessing if it is I should use it? Other thing is what seems to be some sort of vent from the float chamber to atmosphere or something? Big circle thing that pokes out into the top of the secondary. Any benifits to having this, or should I use the top section that doesn't have it?

I do have a disc diff from a XF sitting around... But its spring. Can I take the axles out of that and put them in my current diff? Hopefully that'd fix the handbrake...

Any T5 between XF and EL will bolt straight up from what I've been told. As said earlier in this thread, EB onwards are better if you can get one.

So I'm wiring in EF thermos in my ute on the weekend. Noticed during the week driving it without the clutch fan on, temp was fine unless I had to sit and idle for any amount of time. So this got me thinking, rather than wire it up to a sensor and do it that way, is it the same principle to wire it to a switch, where the switch just completes the circuit for the thermos, and they turn on/off. Now for the tricky part. I have a ZL dash in my ute, and part of the ZL dash is a switch for a rear demister. Utes don't have rear demisters, so I was wondering, can I use the wiring and switch for the demister? Bonus to this is the light in the dash to remind me that the fans are on. I figure all I have to do is find the wires for the demister, and add in the positive and negative to the demister circuit?

Umm, maybe? They're only temporary, it was all I had lying around. I'm yet to have trouble with them in my trailer wiring

Don't see why it wouldn't work, but imo is a bit pricey... I paid $50 for my whole conversion (thermos and relay switch). Then I paid $15 total to get a normal relay rather than the temp one that came with the thermos, and for an inline fuse holder for the 12V direct feed from Autobarn. Used wiring from an old wiring harness that was lying around, and to connect two wires into one and vice versa the factory splitters that are in utes for towing wiring.

Got them wired in today, just hooked up to the manual switch for now (running via the demister as I wanted), will look at adding a temp sensor a bit later on. Also managed to get them in without having to chop up the thread for the original clutch fan from the water pump. Wiring at fans Relay looks almost factory No interference from clutch fan thread

That's a good idea, would also mean I can easily add in the auto switch later.

For now a manual switch would probably be temporary, or only last as long as the xflow is in there. Alternator at the moment is standard, I have a higher amp carby one and an EFI xflow one. Guess I'll see which one copes the best.

My xflow is old and tired, that's why its treated somewhat gently haha. This isn't just another engine build for me, its my first and therefore a learning experience as well, that said I know to plan.and buy to the plan, even if it takes longer.

That makes sense to me, any idea what amperage the fuse should be?

Manual switch would let me decide when to turn them on rather than they come on when not really needed. I've been driving around all day today with no fan on at all, and no sign of overheating.

Yeah I've been thinking of a thumpr can since I heard of them, probably only go the middle one. Definitely agree on the good sound they make!!

Sounds pretty decent, goes alright as well I'd imagine? How dished are the pistons?

They're only $20-$30 new from Bursons/SuperCheap etc, if its the one I'm thinking of.

Its not sat with no water in it... Came out of one of the parts ute the day the motor did, and into mine two days later... Any way to check for blockages besides symptoms?

Not sure if my clutch fan is playing up, you know how they get louder when they spin faster, well mine seems to sound loud all the time. Haven't had the time to sit and watch it to see if it speeds up and slows down. Haven't noticed increased fuel consumption or any temp changes. Anyway to test them besides watching to see the speed change?

It was still spinning... I didn't even check the radiator, I'm just going on the assumption its good? It doesn't leak or anything... and wasn't blocked when I flushed it at the start of the year when I done the water pump...