Mr Polson

Tyre wear is how I noticed my negative camber in the first place. So toe in is when the front of the tyre are closer together than the back? And toe out is the opposite? Yeah may as well explain castor too, then I'll know the whole deal

Yeah, it does tend to follow the road a lot. Not nessasairly a bad thing. Unless I want to go the other way. The eccentric is the funny bolt that's offset to one side yeah? Going to be a right pain to get to with no hoist and the car on the ground... Friend has a pit in his shed, may have to borrow that. So if I adjust the camber and fiddle with the toe, tighten it all up and go for a drive I should be able to get it semi decent? Camber I should be able to get right almost by looks? As in, right now you look at the wheel and see it leaning in. Toe will be more difficult, doesn't take much for that to be thrown out (going by how bad it was when I replaced tie rod ends). All good, when stuff is properly explained, I feel as though I get a better understanding!

Steering geometry is complicated :/ 2.5" count as heavily lowered? Haha. Mines a 6cyl XF with manual steering. I remember it being lighter and easier to drive when I lowered it. Is there any way to allow them to get camber back if you lower them too much? I'm sure I've heard of camber correction kits for if you "run out" of camber. Doesn't hitting a pothole or sharp bump throw out your wheel alignment? I have negative camber - I think - top of wheel leaning inward. If I adjust it, to bring the bottom in/top out, will that cause toe out?

Definitely!! I've seen a ute getting around that has the quarter windows darker than the rest, it looks shit!

Didn't think of that... I think I know how to alter the toe though.

I'd rather have my tyres last than get street rep

That'll be fun to get to leaving it on the ground... Its lowered 2.5" haha. Dizzy, I've been to four different places now, and none of them have adjusted the camber correctly yet.

Should be able to buy the tint from most car places... Get some and try the quarter windows, if you go alright with them try a side window, if that's okay you should be able to do them all. Ute rear window is easier than a sedan as its flat. My manager at work has a ute - Nissan I think - he tinted the windows himself years ago, and they still look good.

Some Nulon G70 in with the fluid will help shifting, pretty sure it's good for the gearbox too!!

Comp Cams? Has comp in the title... I've only heard good stuff about High Energy, one of Dads mates has a worked Clevo with High Energy gilmer drive.

Didn't EF have coil packs?

I'll check those solenoids then, maybe that'll fix it properly.

Right, I'm getting sick of freezing in the mornings and nights!! Got a XF Ghia wagon, and the heater doesn't work. The fan works, and everything else that I can identify (recirc flap, heater warmth/cold controls, etc) all work. The problem is the heater tap doesn't seem to be receiving vacuum. If you manually hold down the heater tap (which looks very new), the heater works brilliantly... But I can't drive along and have the heater tap held down at the same time. Any ideas on what could cause this?

Not sure, I'd have to ask Nova... its his old wagon. But I'd assume it was all done properly...

Yeah still rebuild oil, that's why I'm doing the change. Had a look at the pm lubricants, probably a bit too much for now, also no Tas distributor... Just gonna go with Penrite. Not a Z9 to change... its a Motor craft filter

EF/EL are meant to be the better ones, slightly. I think XF T5s have a different ratio in 5th...

Well I want it to last but I don't want to be spending billions on oil... That said if it lasts longer you'd save by doing less oil changes? I'll look it up in the morning and decide.

I went from 3sp manual to 5sp in the ute, easily the best mod I've done. You can get more from the vehicle with more gears, fuel is way better (3sp was about 14L/100, 5sp can drop to 10/11 per 100km). This is with a 3.23 diff. Pity it'd be next to impossible to adapt a Later model auto..

Yeah fresh engine, that's why I asked. How much thinner? Just one or two grades?

It was one piece yeah, only like $15 or something from Autobarn, what do two piece ones look like? The seal I replaced was one piece, and probably factory.

This is 86DA, but when I bought a XF ute with T5 the block was 84DA and I'm fairly sure (may be wrong) that it had the same type of rear main as this: Thats about all I know of them

Heater tap is in one from the head. What I meant was, does it matter where each goes in relation to the heater box? Can the hose from the head go on either left or right pipe, or does that affect the heater operation?

Nah, lol, didn't even think of that.

As in the temp control on the heater pod? Yeah I was surprised it still allows me to choose between hot and cold... would've thought it'd be stuck on hot now? I'm wondering what else in this car could be weird... Yep fixed for now. What would happen if they were stuffed? Would've thought nothing would happen then? As in turn the tap around or swap which heater pipe it goes onto? That was one thought, tap is in the right way (arrow points towards heater box). Can't tell if it runs into the correct pipe or not, can't compare to the ute as the ute runs into the A/C core and will work either way.

Okay, figure this out. Cable tied the tap so the valve is down (closed??). Go for a drive, heater works. By logic, having the valve/tap tied I should only get hot or cold air. Change temp with the heater control pod, cold air. Change back to hot. Hot air. Go figure.