Squiz

yeah tried that i was in the ute using my feet to push against the door while my uncle was trying to get it open but that didnt work either

thankyou, i coated it all in CRC before i left this morning ill be able to go back to it next weekednd and have another go with these videos as reference. hopefully i get the dam thing open atleast dont mind if i have to buy a new mechanism

yes it all works nothing looks broken it just wont unlatch for some reason

if it is that spring can it be replaced while the doors still stuck shut?

so how do i get the door open to be able to replace the mechanism?

when i hold he handle up the door lock doesnt go back down but i did see a spring like that on the floor of the ute

my xf ute has G8 trim code

Hi all, ive just aquires a 92 xf ute of my uncle and the drivers door wont open no matter what we do, door hands not boken its unlocked aadn the inside handle works, i managed to get the door trim off but cant seem to see the problem, anyone had this happen before? really have no idea what to do to get it open.

i found two different ones for the cluster, a 12v 3w globe and a 12v led. the little centre dash one i have no idea where to get them from j car and supercheap didnt have them

ok so 12v 2w for both cluster and dash centre bulbs, my dash cluster ones have 12v on them but the wattage is rubbed off

ok thankyou maybe newer bulbs will be a bit brighter then 30 odd year old ones hopefully

hoping to find out to replace them tomorrow ahead of all fords day on sunday

i also took out the centre dash bulbs above the heater, they are 12v 2w can you put something brighter in there aswell the 2 watt ones a very weak

hi all, what the 2 wedge bulbs wattages that ilumiate your cluster in an XE i can see the 12v but the wattage has worn off. and can you put something higher wattage in because the dash with original bulbs was very dull compared to a newer car

is there anywhere you can buy just the odometer out of a xe cluster? i have two complete clusters and both of the the wite caddy that hods the odometer and trip meter where the cog that aways breaks goes the actuual housing on both is broken and i want to get my odometer and trip working again

thankyou,

is the a video anywhere on how to change these gears??? i have to change one i have 4 speed single rail and 3.23 diff so i got a green 21 tooth but have no idea where it goes

8 minutes ago, gerg said:

I've had both, but in my opinion, 6-3-1 sounds more sporty as the pulses are separated for longer before joining. The pipes are grouped very differently between the two types.

With the 6-3-1, numbers 1 & 6, 2 & 5, 3 & 4 are paired respectively, so if you observe the inline 6 firing order, each pair is 360 crank degrees apart from each other. This gives maximum scavenging and does it more evenly. Each opposite pulse helps scavenge its paired cylinder.

With the 6-2-1, there are 2 groups of 3 cylinders with 240 crank degrees between them, and each exhaust pulse from one cylinder sees two scavenge pulses from the other two at 240 and 480 degrees. Depending on the tuned length, there could theoretically be two optimum rpm points where the scavenging effect is ideal, but grouping 3 cylinders together might result in a bit of overlap and work against that effect when compared to the 6-3-1 design.

Regarding sound, there is only a subtle difference and hardly worth worrying about, but my dad's XF had the first set I'd heard and I still remember how it sounds, 25 years later. I think the 6-3-1 is better at higher rpm and you can hear the engine come "on-song" more compared to a 6-2-1 header.

Sure, you can lengthen the secondaries on the 6-2-1s to dial them in, and folks on here have had great success using this method, but to just go and bolt on a set and drive away, 6-3-1s are the go.

Really, the only arguments against going with 6-3-1s is clearance, and extra cost. I seem to remember Pacemakers only having about $40 price difference, going back a bit though.

The biggest factor in exhaust sound is always the muffler. If you choose to go with a chambered type on a 6, you'll need to run a resonator or two with it, otherwise it will drone like a bitch. I have had better success with a straight-through type glasspack which gave a nice presence but was quiet on the open road. 6-2-1 headers, 2.5 system, resonator (basically a hotdog without the packing) and an offset glasspack (side in, centre out). That was on my Cortina and was a great system.

Conversely, when I bought my XE wagon, it was a 6 and had 6-2-1 headers, 2.25 pipes and a turbo-style muffler with a hotdog at the rear. It droned like a mofo, right at the 2100rpm mark where crossies often do. The V8 I put in was quieter.

Don't be fooled by people telling you the pipe size is too big. Any back pressure is bad. People who say that an engine needs back-pressure to run nicely are probably comparing that to open headers, which often don't perform as well as headers with a tuned pipe/collector fitted. That's a pulse tuning issue, not back-pressure.

Smaller pipes are louder. Go as big as you can squeeze in there, and it will cruise sweet but give some bark when you mash it. Small pipes drone and resonate badly.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 

thats really good information i can understand, thanks for taking the time to type it out much appreciated.

does anyone have 6-3-1 extractors? 

sounds nice

ive been trying to find videos on the different extractor sounds iam curious to hear what a 6-2-1 set of extractors sound like witha a 2.5 in system compared to a 6-3-1 extractor set up

my xe is a s pack with paint code z760 aswell

thanks everyone for the help

the fan does spin and is firm to turn, but locks on at higher rpm

hi guys, my clutch fan in my xe roars when driving like its locked on but a low rpm it free spins , how do i fix this?