Demmo

thanks mate I will have another look just wondering if they are the screws that are holding the small wire harness below the speedo unit even though they don't appear to be near the cover guess I will be brave an remove one to see what happens  then  cheers demmo

yes you are correct with xf xg  but xh  I can only find 2 screws  on top  and 2 midway under light switch an opposite side  but across the base is all smooth   it feels that its attached directly below and inline with the top screws but I cannot feel or see any attachment points

the 9 kg gimpy has crossed my mind to make it unattached   I rang the local wrecker an he has no wrecks of that vintage they have all gone to scrap so I guess I will wait for someone to post answer  it will be simple and I will be in the dog house lol

hi    being a male !!!!!!!!!!   I thought it would be simple to remove the dash surround so I can remove the instrument cluster to replace the blown  globes.

I only found 4 screws the top comes free but  across the bottom  seems still fixed in place    now I have looked but I can not find anymore screws or clips so before I loose it can someone tell me where what to look for  I am at the point to let the gremlins have it   an ….k it go to the pub    cause I am beat and I dreading the answer that a five year old could fix it       lol

have to agree with  deano     if  the wires are  1 black  and the other is yellow with red trace  they are low coolant sensor as  on my zl wreck they are connected to radiator  if you want a pic of lets know  

cheers demmo

ok i need some advise from the knowledgeable      re auto 4 speeds        i may have sourced an auto box from an el 4ltr falcon as a replacement for my xg 4ltr   auto   can someone tell me  if it is a straight swap or is there modification needed     sorry for limited details as i haven't laid eyes on the transmission so i am  in the dark  a bit     

its typical demmo style  need fast decision  if i want it    the driver can grab it tomorrow arvo  as he has room to squeeze it on the backload     so any advise would be appreciated

cheers  demmo 

o sorry jack just re read all posts  and the ute in question is an xg  that I use for a run a round   the red xh outback is retired to the hayshed  

maybe I should of posted a few pics of xg when I saved it from tip    but its not in same league as all the flash xg s  on here  and its not red don't want to embarrass anyone  cough cough haha

cheers demmo

thanks guys for reply's   yes the van is complete   but  I would need to be best friends with someone like  2redrovers  who can turn pig shit into strawberry jam   (for those who don't have a weird sense of humor its rusted)

thanks for the offer jack   at this stage I still not sure what to do.  its a case of having to many toys, the war office complaining about too many spare parts in backyard, the usual empty pocket syndrome, and what spare time? 

the tranny only seems to go straight to second then third and when at speed you back off pedal and it seems its in neutral  a bit like the first old holden hydramatics   even when you lock selector in 1 it will rev out to about 75  shift to 2 and you can hit 110  hit 3 and 4 no change   reverse works fine   so I guess the tranny is destined for scrap

cheers demmo

Just found this thread as my auto has just died. So am thinking to do same conversion too. So binary_fuel did you go ahead with this swap any problems etc?   

Q.  I have an xh 5 speed manual van  that I can acquire  would pedal box transfer to the earlier body   and  would there be any other problems can anyone  advise   or.   am I better off finding another auto box   thanks. Demmo

56 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

What ended up being the problem?

I think it was several failures at around same time  being failing fuel pump,  possible blockage in the lines  an filter,  and dizzy cap wearing out causing erratic spark and of course a old impatient buggar with nil mechanical knowledge  jumping to the wrong conclusions   so hopefully she will give me another few years of daily travel of 200 kls a day 

thanks for your help along the way  cheers demmo

ya ho  we are now in celebration mode all back to normal well nearly goes like the clappers except for the noise from thy holly exhaust   o well it can wait 

a big thankyou to the guys who took the time to help and advise a big thankyou to the valve bouncer  for pics

now off to the pub for a wee dram or 3 and a counter lunch for the war office

cheers demmo

reply to daves questions  I purchased 2 fuel pumps a few years ago from "dirt racer" in qld   I only replaced one on outback  the other left in cupboard   when it appeared to be faulty I purchased  another    which so far seems to be ok

the oxy sensor was purchased about same time from repco but never installed

distributor is bosc motor craft the sensor on the side has no brand  this was sourced from local engine builder

yes I have a code reader from murray but get a little lost with terminology

the idle control valve may be faulty as I did clean it in thinners  and I have since read this may be a no no  so I may have to find replacement   quick question  are the icv the same on xh as the wires go into the solenoid  on opposite side

the map sensor was swapped from outback so it was running so can only assume it in working condition

with regards to the old dist. it appears to have been filled with water as there was corrosion on the inside walls ect.  so I guess this was also part of problem  

anyhow tomorrows another day  

thanks for everybody's input  so far

cheers demmo

No we just set tdc to marks on bottom pulley. And the rotor pointing to notch at no.1. How do I find out which pins as on my old xf. there was a plug under bonnet. Nothing on xg or my xh.. looks like I gonna have to Google it
Thanks

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

The slow to rev up could be retarded ignition timing, did you bridge out the two pins in the diagnostic plug and adjust it?

So what brand of fuel pump was the ebay one,
and what brand is in there now?
Only use NTK Oxy sensors on these things - NTK is what was fitted from factory.

A dud O2 sensor shouldn't cause bad missing.
Is it a rhythmic miss, or a random irregular fish-bite miss?
I would head towards a hall effect sensor in the dizzy, and/or injectors which are clogged.

Another thing that can cause random missing at idle, is a burnt out idle control circuit, in the ECU.

Ok we can now remove pump out of equation New pump in. primed pump up to 200 kpa. Started run till motor warmed up Then it starts missing again grr line pressure stayed at about 210 kpa after shutdown So the last New ebay pump faulty so 3rd time lucky So now on hunt for a dizzy Have New leads coil a t.p.s and oxy sensor ordered So the elimination continues
Thanks people for your input so far
Cheers demmo

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Ok Will buy another pump while I am in perth today an I will grab a couple of metres of hose for vac just in case it split. It won't go astray as I still working on outback . Vaccume hose be 1/8 ? Hope repco know

Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Do you still have the issue of fuel pressure bleeding off straight away,
as soon as you stop the engine?
 

Bizarre.
Keep in mind that the ecu uses a PIP signal from the distributor as a reference as when to inject fuel. It could be wiring from the module on the dizzy back to the ecu.

Thats it mate.... think acceptable leakdown... but over hours.... is why it primes pumps before start,
makes sure rail is at pressure.

Mate if ya need any diagrams or stuff..... I got it all here.. can post them up for ya.

Goodluck mate.

Jack.


Sent from my GT-S7583T using Tapatalk

Yeah it is simple -
only 4 things govern the ability for fuel pressure to bleed down.
An external leak
A faulty fuel pressure regulator
A stuck open fuel injector
Or
A faulty non-return valve in the fuel pump.
Sounds like you've eliminated the first two, so you have either a stuck injector, or a dud pump.
Given your fuel injector issues with the engine missing,
my money is on a stuck injector.
Pull the fuel rail, and get a container on the end of each injector.
(Isolate the ignition coil obviously)
turn the ign to on so the fuel pump primes, and see if any injectors leak.
Then crank the engine, and observe again, to see if they're all pulsing in some realm of normality.

the fn saga continues  pulled fuel lines out found dirt in lines so have blown all lines out  have put another rail complete from the spares vehicle on another fuel filter on 

managed to start it running on 5  pump pressure shows 200 kpa   has spark to all 6 cylinders so pull injector wires off start at no 6  no difference to running  next pull no5 off an motor dies  

pulled injector rail off swapped injectors around  put back on                 started but does not idle misses and wants to die  manage to get revs up around 2000 and it seems fine

turn off     to restart turns over try's to start and when its turning over faster than starter motor then dies  after 5  6 attempts it starts  missing badly  then it starts  same sequence again ok at high revs  refuses to run at lower revs and cuts out as now it wont idle long enough to pull wires off six injector

pump pressure stays at 200 kpa when running but falls to 0 when motor stops  if I blank return line off  crank motor an as it fires an runs for the 20  secs or so fuel pressure reads around 400kpa  motor stops running the pressure drops to 0   on the xh the fuel rail had a pressure of around 380kpa and maintained that pressure even when not running   so have I somehow missed a non return valve between tank an pressure regulator or is the xh xg fuel systems the same ?

o an dave  you say   "Dont over think it... XG Electrical systems are very simple.?   ark me think you meant to say the operator is...........simple

so can someone tell me where this idiot is going wrong  an maybe some further suggestions to try  before this white haired old fart relives  guy fox night

thanks for reply   I have 2 grey relays next to the booster so will try swapping them around.   I think someone has played there before as the wires have push on spades  connected straight to each relay an not into a black Bakelite holder like the relays next to battery    anyway will go an re read your posts on your ute thanks again

cheers Demmo

hope someone can help  before I put a match to it   ok over the last week or so the xg would hesitate /not respond on quick acceleration  and has slowly got worse. yesterday it started coughing  missing and would not build up revs  it would cut out  then crank over fire and stall as if out of petrol  it had half a tank at the time now it wont start at all. 

ok have checked all plugs leads ect and have spark at all cylinders

put pressure gauge in fuel line an this seem to be hit an miss pressure nill to about 10 psi

so put new fuel pump (only) and inline filter on still no fuel to rail  tried a second pump complete from the outback that works  same thing

when you turn key on both the pumps whine an then stop  now if the fuel line is removed at the tank I only get a small amount of fuel out each time

so do these fuel pumps need some sought of back pressure to function or would it be possible that the computer lowers the voltage so pump speed is reduced /or increases voltage and I have f  rked 2 fuel pumps

  so is it possible to hotwire the pump to see if it increases the amount of fuel        any suggestions/ideas what it could be    will be appreciated

thanks Demmo

what was the outcome to problem as my xg is now doing similar   so I have to start looking for ideas   besides a box of matchers other suggestions welcomed

They wouldn't take long to drain a battery when they are using 300 watts total. That's 25 amps so a smaller crossflow alternator would struggle to keep power up to them after a while of continuous use

totally  agree  with you on that point ando 81  perhaps i should have added a bit more info  as the cars alt. was upgraded   it had a larger battery fitted with cradle extended    also these mods were done in mid 70's .     with today's advanced products i am just using led's   and have the largest battery that fits without mods and wired through relays and separate switch to keep the fuzz happy

cheers demmo