Demmo

Hi all  just wondering if anyone can tell me how to find a code/date of manufacture of a repco car battery. I am told that these battery’s are manufactured by century batt.  But unlike my century battery I cannot find any stamped letters/no’s.  any pointers would be appreciated thanks. Demmo

what after building it  driving it  almost flying  in it   now you want to stop       just use a   she'll be rite  mate haha

ps  some pics would help too

wow this post was short lived 

"its fixed n fxxk does it haul arse"  after an explanation like that Dave  he is probably out running the blue lights somewhere between borders from vic to qld on the covert 2020 run  haha             hmm maybe I should give him my outback to wake it up a bit 

bump

how did you go did you find the location of switch  and how did you fix????

cheers demmo

ok thanks  I would love one of the 2 door models but  that's a pipe dream  anyway  thanks for reply

cheers demmo

just checked your pics in December post an noticed in background a red ford which looks about a 64 model which looks in good nic   are you the lucky owner ?     if so would love to see some more pics of it if you would 

cheers demmo

cheers for the info 

On 4/2/2020 at 6:35 AM, deankdx said:

your problem could be the IGNITION SWITCH (electrical part itself), i had to replace mine on the XG XR6 i had, i went to pick a part and looked for something with smartlock(mine had smartlock) and chiseled one off (hammer against a screw driver to the ridge on the switch) an EF that had low kms (less worn perhaps) the XFs etc had grub screws holding the switch in, the XG and later have knurled pins that cant be undone, but knocking the switch out didn't damage anything on the EF at the wrecker, or MY XG, so i refitted it, and pressed the pins back in with multi grip pliers.. fixed it.  (sold the car, was driving me insane with similar issues, but i was sure it was fixed after that)
needed to IGN ON for 30mins to unlock the smart lock.. but all good after that

thanks for the suggestion Dean

although this problem is spasmodic, I have a feeling that it may be the tumblers in the ignition switch. before I left on my last trip away in it I sprayed an electrical contact spray into the barrel. For the first two days where I was stop starting heaps I only had to knock the steering wheel a couple of times.  So I sprayed some more into lock and the remainder of the trip it was back to square one where the steering wheel is the immobiliser.  Think I will have to go find a wreck an have a look see an maybe try an ignition  swap, or just sell the outback and put the money into the xg that has been neglected over the years.  one less car licence may make the war office a little happier  

Just to add to that I have same problem in my xh where it won't turn over half the time  with key in start position them bump steering wheel an  hey presto your away

it does have the j3 chip fitted already   so  you maybe like me have another underlying problem that I am still searching for   anyway sorry to put a dampener on this  I hope your problem is not same as mine an you get it solved

cheers demmo  

nice deck out    what material is the bricks  cut out from  they look great love the idea

cheers Demmo

now that is an idea would tell you which ones are loosing pressure         would some fluro colour in balloon's first would show if that air is escaping around outside of injector  as well   just a thought

thanks jack  I did find your uploads of wiring ect but when I downloaded an try to enlarge them  they  came out blurred an difficult to read. when  the daughter visits I will get her to have a go at downloading the pics as she knows her way around computers better than I.      I found one of the relays was burnt out and the  wire had plastic covering burnt/melted. looking at your photos that you posted of xg setup is identical to xh. 

cheers Demmo

pumps are not working    have ignition lights   the immobiliser light flashes when key first turned on  then goes out  motor turns over but does not fire.

have fitted a pressure gauge in the fuel line as it enters injector rail and shows no pressure even when cranking.      waiting on an  inline spark plug tester at moment postage is slow lol.  when switching tanks neither pumps prime  but the fuel gauges appear to be working.   I believe there should be a signal from the computer that engages the pumps when cranking and shuts pumps down when engine doesn't fire.   I think this is correct  if so can someone point me where I would find the start point of this wire an where it would feed from an run to       if I hotwire one of the pumps to try and start the motor could I do more damage to the electrical system ?  any thoughts anyone?  

well thought I would get the old ute out of the hay shed an take it for a run. so back it out ,left it idling while I closed up shed. jump in the ute ,motor dies  and I can smell burning plastic behind kick panel. !can great   so found that mice had got in chewed the wires and sound deadening  thus frying wires. long story short pulled the wire harness out .made replacement  still wont run. found and replaced the two green relays which switch tank selection, relay under overflow bottle seems to be engaging when ignition on, but I now need some pointers to where I might find more fuses or relays that need to be activated when motor is turning over to fire up pump/s.  I am hoping someone might be able to post suggestions  guides ect  as I would like to get it running  so any help would be good thanks

xg is a  fixed window   expensive  mmm   so I had better take good care of the ones on my stock piled parts down the back

just a thought  maybe you could get the bolts from Mandurah bolt supplies as you know what size ect  

that's great mate so when do you want to do mine ???  haha  glad to see another au done up 

it may have been repainted had had the standard metallic tinter removed and had a harlequin metallic tint added in its place    looking at the mint condition of it I guess its a professional job   um that's my opinion  and I have been known to be more wrong  than right   oops   what does everyone else think 

lol

 I had a similar thing happen on the van and the passenger door would open if left unlocked while driving   locking the door seemed to stop it   from memory the mechanic changed the door mechanism  but I don't think he changed the pillar  striker plate.  

that's handy to know that the striker plates are same as rear sedan doors   I have only owned utes and vans in the  e series  so I will have to have a look next time I am at Tipmart

cheers demmo

are you wanting to fit them to an xg   as that white ute is an xh with the rounded window trim  so they may not fit tight on xg

cheers demmo

just a simple idea

as I am a old fart with a cbf outlook   especially when it comes to pulling a dash apart easy but putting it back together  well  !!!!!!!!!!!k it     as our local station plays  cru!p  so  I installed a fm transmitter hard wired in  it has a usb port  headphone jack as well as extension speaker jack   I mainly use a usb stick with my grampa music on it and play it through the original stereo. the other advantage with this that music can be played on any fm radio  while you are within transmitter range.  

my au did something similar the other week  and then stopped an refused to start. lovely 200+ks from home. local rac attended and after all usual checks decided to change the crank angle sensor and it run. so 5 days on it is still going. maybe same problem, not sure how you check it but I am sure someone hear will enlighten us.  cheers demmo

so my claim to fame is I shouldn't play with cars   period.   I undone the clips that held the wire harness and the two missing screws (not mine the cars)were there behind the wiring harness for the electric trailer brakes.  so know I have replaced the dash panel which works  and removed the wire and hardware for trailer brakes and some switch gear. now i can get my fat hand up under the dash ya!.  thanks 4 your help dean 

cheers demmo