Demmo

I had the 5 inch sealed beam lights which were rated at 150 watt and they were mounted in a rubber housing off a cat graders work lights and the mechanic wired them so they would only power up when engine was running if you do use them with a normal car battery take previous posters advise cause they certainly will drain a car battery quickly good luck Demmo

Ok need some help/advise just put a hole in me sump in the xh 4 litre (i know dumb arse) what is the best way to replace it does the motor need to come out or can the sump be removed whilst in situ good advise will be greatfully accepted thanks demmo

Thanks for the reply people looks like its gonna be off the road for awhile need to save some dollars to do a motor rebuild as it has done 400thou and was getting like me a little tired Thanks demmo

mate not sure how it would go but I seem to remember a painter years ago using a petrol dampened soft rag and working it along the edge of the transfer. this softened the glue and he just kept lifting the edge with his fingernail. not sure if this would work on the new adhesives but it worked on the supper roo stripes back then suggest you try a small section first to see if it works o and if you do try it don't f'n smoke or you will have bigger troubles remember this is only a suggestion ok cheers demmo

did you find out what the problem was/is cheers demmo

full marks to you vdo top post with heaps of info cheers and beers demmo

the bonnet protector I had on the xf was held on by 6 self tappers along the leading edge of bonnet underneath it was a clear plastic same as headlight protectors it was a ford acc when purchased but I believe auger accessories make them along with weather window shields so ask at your parts place and they should be able to help you will need to take them off periodically to clean behind it also cheers demmo

the area where they screw in is a boxed in section which makes the fix a large job to be successful on my old ute I had new clips with the upholstery replaced across the front of tarp to matchup new holes an new clips. the old holes were just bogged up and I repainted that section [pressure pac white]

gday noobus if you are planning on leaving your solars hooked up after dark make sure you have a cut-out on it as my first panels on the camper used to draw power back through the panels and also added extra burden on the battery when combined with fridges an lights ect meant that had to monitor recharge each day. also adding to the woes was the original wiring was too light and it suffered voltage drop ect we rewired with larger cable, replaced optima with a 100 amp sealed gel battery, and I fitted a smart regulator to xh ute all seems to work well at present. not sure what vehicle you have to tow but my sons patrol has you Bute electronic crap which would not allow sufficient charge to top up the second battery to overcome this the dealers fitted a 12 volt to 12 volt battery charger in the back which inturn charges the camper trailer battery to maximum when trailer is stored in shed we have a 30 watt solar panel mounted on shed roof connected to a solar regulator and have found that this maintains the charge in battery hope these points help you and a article I found interesting can be found at www fridge an solar net cheers demmo

thanks for the info will store it away for when I have to do it cheers demmo

a nova the question remains "How did you fix" cause I need to do same shortly as my old one is a hit an miss unit so I expect it to die soon any tips, pics, help will be good thanks demmo

ok rev was on the money replaced the tin gigger an all works fine. not sure how long as the old unit was quite warm while lights were flicking on/off the replacement also is quite warm although the lights work as they should. so is it normal for do these units to heat up when in use. anyway all good for now thanks for the reply's guys cheers demmo

thankyou for the info Dave I didn't think of the alternator as I have never had one die on me so now before I replace the tin gigger I will have a play and see if ac triggers it have a couple of 100 watt spots I can plug in as well should be interesting to see what happens. my first thought was that it be heat related due to no air movement under the bonnet when stationary as the xh has no grill and the bay is very enclosed with sump guard restricting air in low down under bumper so when stationary with fans not on there is no air movement. anyway thanks again for info always good to learn something new to keep the brain awake cheers demmo

thanks rev got hold of the "tin gigger " tonight so will fit 2moz if I can loose enough grape juice to be able too see straight that is don't have 100 watt lights ute is all standard ford factory so hope you are right an sorry think I drank your 10 bucks + already haha so I owe ya cheers demmo

hi peoples my xh has just started this crap last night of flashing hi beam and it only does if I let it idle for a couple of minutes. when on the h/way travelling an hi beam is on its fine so doctor rev do you think it will be the tin box doing this or light switch or something else could it be heat related due lack of air in the bay when stationary? any ideas of help will be apprenticed as my mechanical knowledge is zero cheers demmo

same colour as the guide posts but seriously I just use flat black same as gaz said while I had it on the old ute I think I painted it twice in the 5 years I had it just my 2 bobs worth cheers demmo

my 2 bobs worth you are on the money xpt crossy as the original flake was made from aluminium and coloured and was originally used with cellulose lacquers. from memory you needed something like 10 / 12 or more coats of clear over the flake, sanding the latter coats to get a smooth finish making it labour intensive and expensive. if you were to keen in rubbing it back an made contact with the flake you would rub the colour off leaving a silver finish. the high build of clear also had a tendency to crack an craze in warmer weather this reduced its usability on everyday cars . with the advancement of high build acrylic paint products and plastics and the car manufactures offering metallic paint finishes paint manufactures started making the flakes from coloured plastics which won't dissolve in todays paint products. so all you young folks who said the flake was made from plastic are also on the money. so I guess its called progress in technology leaving us old farts behind in history haha yep I too want to see the pics of this gay kayak gerg

the cd I received has the copy of complete aftermarket manual. from what mine shows similar to Gregory's printed manual at 4 dollars its worth a look cheers demmo

just a suggestion if you can't find a manual I purchased one on cd for $4 off egay which works well cheers demmo

just a suggestion have you got the dimensions or sample if so try a print shop/sticker shop and see if they can make them. my young bloke has used our local print shop and had stuff made from stick on vinyl which is colour fast holding up well on the outside of his vehicle. hope it helps cheers demmo

ok i finally got around to lifting the back cover off to reveal the fuel tanks as it was/is only drawing fuel from 1 tank. so some buddding mechanic has had a play an bypassed the switching soloniod they have cut the lines and connected them directly to the metal fuel line. my question is could someone tell me how to id the difference between the out line an return line on top of the tanks and are the lines the same diameter internally as it appears i have 2 different size pipes lines fitted with quick release connections to the tanks which are to short to reconnect to solonoid.. so it looks to be a complete redo from metal lines. any help would be great and even better if someone has some pics of the duel line setup showing solonoide ect. cheers guys demmo